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YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
NEW YORK • BOSTON ■ CHICAGO - DALLAS
ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO
MACMILLAN & CO., Limited
LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA
MELBOURNE
THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd.
TORONTO
Yarn and Cloth Making
An Economic Study
A College and Normal School Text
Preliminary to Fabric Study
AND
A Refer eyice for Teachers of Industrial History and Art
in Secondary and Elementary Schools
BY
MARY LOIS KISSELL, A.M.
w
SPECIALIST IN PRIMITIVE TEXTILES, AND FORMERLY ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR
OF HOME ECONOMICS IN THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
Weto fork
THE MACMILLAM COMPANY
1918
All rights reserved
r^
6
Copyright, 1918,
By the MACMILLAN COMPANY.
Set up and electrotyped. Published August, 1918.
SEP -4 I9i8
J. 8. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
/'-vv O I
PREFACE
The great waste by the clothing consumer due to
ignorance of fabric values has called forth this college
and normal school text-book on ''Yarn and Cloth Mak-
ing." Its object is to awaken in the student a deeper
appreciation for economic values. In following the
evolving science of spinning and weaving one gains a
new valuation, as well as a distaste for waste.
The unique arrangement of subject matter makes it
helpful also to teachers in secondary and elementary
schools searching for material suited to their particular
problems. Hitherto no one has presented in a con-
secutive study the simplest methods of yarn and cloth
making by peoples of lower culture. These are richly
suggestive to the instructor of younger children.
Teachers of industrial history and economics in-
terested in tracing industrial growth and the "dynamic
forces which mold society" will find the topics " Out-
line " and " Economic Gain " in convenient form for
studying the textile industry, which plays a role in
social history second only to agriculture.
A concise and systematic treatment of the subject
will be valued by students of the industrial arts working
out problems that need definite data as to implements,
vi PREFACE
processes and working principles related to the means
and methods of manufacture.
The rural school with limited appropriation, as well
as the expanding city school, needing help in a wise
selection of library books and stereopticon slides, will
find the carefully rated bibliographies and reference
lists of illustrations of indispensable service.
Fresh knowledge of scientific facts concerning yarn
and cloth making is being gathered by the general
anthropologist, who needs the guide of a specialist to
direct in this highly specialized field of textiles as to
just what technical data are of moment and most im-
portant to look for on the expedition. To him "Dis-
tinctive Characteristics" and "Outline" will prove of
assistance not only in his investigation and research,
but in suggesting correct terminology to phrase his re-
ports of the facts which he has gleaned.
To the industrial museum official, the technical
librarian and the textile mechanic the "Outline" topics
should make "Yarn and Cloth Making" invaluable for
desk reference. It includes in a nutshell a great wealth
of related textile facts and data usable in the laboratory,
library and museum for selecting and analyzing material
and for its labeling.
Acknowledgment is due to Anna la Tomette Blauvelt,
who compiled the list of Books for Juveniles and assistsd
in the compilation of the list of magazine illustrations.
Credit is given for each illustration in the List of Illus-
trations.
INTRODUCTION
At a moment when our country's thought is centered
on conservation of resources, on economic preservation
of health and human energy and on the development
of the younger generation for the highest service to
mankind, it is an apt season to consider lack in economy
and useless dissipation along clothing lines. Social
economists are stating that here is one of our greatest
present-day wastes. To eliminate this loss and lessen
wastefulness, the purchaser needs discrimination in his
choice of clothing both as to the style or cut of garment
and as to the quality of the textile fabric. It is the
object of this text to deal with fabrics. Through arous-
ing an interest in spending more wisely and with fuller
return, whether in the purchase of cloth by the yard or
in the ready-to-wear garment, this work aims to make
a more discriminating consumer of the fabric.
Textile study in colleges and normal schools to-day
has a tendency to swing to exclusive fabric study and
away from textile manufacture. This is the result of a
previous too extensive consideration of manufacture
and one unrelated to its economic bearing upon the
product. Exclusive study of the fabric leads the student
to think of the fabric in its "already-made" form and
not in relation to the energies which bring it into being
Vlll INTRODUCTION
and the economic accomplishment of these energies.
There is a general failure to recognize the underlying
sciences, forgetting that fabrics owe their existence to
the mechanical and chemical sciences. Previous to
college fabric study some knowledge of these seems
imperative. One cannot intelligently approach fabric
problems involving chemical science without a general
knowledge of chemistry. Neither can one successfully
approach fabric problems without a little understand-
ing of the dynamic power of mechanical science under-
lying fabric making.
The few facts of textile mechanics presented in "Yarn
aid Cloth Making" have been assembled to supply a
need for some knowledge of mechanical science pre-
liminary to fabric study. In brief form, the course
carries spinning and weaving from their crude beginnings
into the machine processes. It is an intensive study of
a narrow but fundamental field, with a focus upon the
economic gain achieved as spindle and loom became
more ef&cient in producing improved yarn and cloth.
The plan was tested out at one of our universities and
the results of the experiment far exceeded expectation.
For, as the student followed the expanding science step
by step and traced the definite gain in each progressive
type, he gained two important things : a clear knowledge
of good yarn and cloth, together with a rich appreciation
of economic values.
Nothing is more needed to-day to stem the tide of
extravagant and wasteful expenditure in clothing than
such an appreciation of fabrics. Art appreciation courses
INTRODUCTION IX
are found in many of our schools, not to educate artists,
but to give future consumers the abiHty to surround
themselves with good art. Educators know it is use-
less to teach what is good and what is poor art, unless
with it is instilled a love for the beautiful. It is just
as fruitless to attempt a reform in clothing waste, with-
out instilling a taste and desire for what is of economic
worth.
A great deficiency in our education to-day is that
household science is not approached in- a more inves-
tigatory manner. For in the atmosphere of inquiry
and research is teaching most effective. When viewed
from this angle the study of practical subjects furnishes
a liberal education. Convinced of this the author hopes
that "Yarn and Cloth Making" may be of wide use.
Its suggestive and flexible arrangement adapts it to
schools of all grades where the subject is taught, and to
localities where instruction is given under widely differ-
ing conditions.
METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK
a. As a college or normal school text "Yarn and
Cloth Making" is preferably supplemented by outside
reading as suggested in the section "Bibliographies."
The subject matter is grouped in two sections under
"Yarn Making" and "Cloth Making," each of which
is considered in an opening descriptive text, followed
by a series of Type Studies of the distinct varieties of
spinning and weaving. Each of these types is presented
under three heads : Distinctive Characteristics, a short
clear statement of the salient points of the type ; Out-
line, a plan giving details as to implement, power and
process ; and Economic Gain, as to quality and quantity.
Cross references are found after the various topics of
the outline, calling attention to explanatory material,
with corresponding numbering in the descriptive text
under Yarn Making and Cloth Making. Accompanying
each type is a specific Bibliography carefully graded as
to fullness of text for this type. These bibliographies
afford student, and teacher with limited time, rapid
reference to the best books. Lists of Illustrations are
supplied each section for clarifying the text and for
slide making, and following the General Bibliography
is the Magazine Illustration and a list of elementary
books in which pictures may be found.
Xll
METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK
h. When time is limited, the course may be shortened
and yet the constructive sequence be maintained by
combining into thirteen lessons as follows :
(i) Sp. I, II, III, IV. Hand (8)
spinning.
(2) Sp. V, VI. Wheel spinning. (9)
(3) Sp. VII. Spinning jenny. (10)
(4) Sp. VIII. Water frame.
(5) Sp. IX, X. Mule spinning. (11)
(6) Sp. XI. Power spinning
frame. (12)
(7) W.I, II. Suspended warp (13)
looms.
W. Ill, IV. Two-bar
looms.
W. V. Two-beam looms.
W. VI, VII, VIII. Shaft
looms.
W. IX. Perfected hand
loom.
W. X, XI. Pattern looms.
W. XII. Power looms.
c. Another means of shortening for classes with
limited time is a selective one, using only culminating
types. In this case the topic "Economic Gain" should
be omitted, the deductions as to gain being drawn from
the "Outline."
(i) Sp. IV. Hand spindle. (6) W. IX. Perfected hand
(2) Sp. VI. Flax wheel. loom.
(3) Sp. IX. Hand mule. (7) W. XI. Jacquard hand
(4) Sp. XI. Power spinning loom.
frame. (8) W. XII. Pov>^er loom.
(5) W. V. Two-beam looms.
d. A narrower selection gives the fundamental prin-
ciples of spinning and weaving in four lessons, consider-
ing "Distinctive Characteristics" and "Outline" only.
(i) Sp. IV. Hand spindle. (3) W. V. Stretched warp
(2) Sp. VI. Spinning wheel. loom.
(4) W. IX. Perfected hand
loom.
METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK xiii
e. Elementary schools can use simple selections from
the "Outline" of
(i) Spinning III. Navajo In- (2) Weaving V. Navajo In-
dian spinning. dian weaving.
/. Secondary schools will find helpful :
(i) Sp. V, VI. Colonial spin- (3) W. IX. Colonial weaving.
ning. (4) W. XI. Power weaving
(2) Sp. X, XI. Power spinning (very simply).
(simply) .
g. Elementary industrial arts will find suggestive
for construction work :
Sp. ni, IV, V, VI and Weaving I, II, III, IV, V, VI.
h. As few as three reference books may be used with
this study, although more makes a far richer course.
Most libraries have in the general stacks three exceed-
ingly helpful books : Encyclopaedia Britannica, New
International Cyclopedia and National Museum Report
of 1914. With these the best books follow:
3. Barlow, "History of weaving"; Marsden, "Cotton spin-
ning " ; Kissell, " Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep.)
5. Marsden, "Cotton weaving"; Hooper, "Hand-loom weav-
ing."
7. Ure, "Cotton manufacture"; Baines, "Cotton manufac-
ture."
9. Foreman, "Stories of useful inventions"; Woolman and
McGowan, "Textiles."
13. Murphy, "The textile industries," II, III, IV, V.
15. James, "Worsted manufacture"; Wilkinson, "Story of the
cotton plant."
XIV METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK
17. Earl, "Home life in colonial days"; Blount, "Story of
home-spun web."
19. Beaumont, "Wool manufacture"; Mason, "Origin of
inventions."
Note. — The Outlines digress from the usual numeral and
letter classifications. Here the capital and small letters are re-
served for different varieties under the type and the numerals for
processes common to all varieties.
Titles are omitted from the Illustration lists ; they are given in
full, however, in the Bibliographies. The bracketed numerals
are inserted for their identification.
SUGGESTIVE PLAN FOR STUDY
I. HAND SPINNING
1. Select from the library one or two books from the
specific "Bibliography" under Spinning I.
2. Read "Yarn Making" right-hand reference numbers
I to 7 for general introduction to spinning.
3. Read "Distinctive Characteristics" to get general
survey of Hand Spinning.
4. Under Outline follow the various topics, and read
from selected books on these topics to enlarge
grasp of subject.
5. Where cross reference numbers appear in the Out-
line, look up corresponding right-hand numbers
under "Yarn Making."
6. Read "Economic Gain" and enlarge upon that given.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Preface v
Introduction vii
Methods of Using Text-Book xi
Suggestive Plan for Study xv
YARN MAKING
Textile beginnings. Mastery over forces of nature.
Early invention. Origin of spinning. Its story
and unfolding. Spinning defined. Yarn char-
acteristics. Economic progress. Attenuating
AND attenuating DEVICES. TwiSTING AND TWISTING
devices. Winding and winding devices. De-
veloping AGENCIES . I
SPINNING TYPES
I. Hand Spinning i8
II. Grasped Hand Spindle 21
III. Supported Hand Spindle 24
IV. Suspended Hand Spindle 29
V. Jersey and Asiatic Wheels 36
VI. Saxony Wheel . . . . . . -43
VII. Jenny Frame 51
VIII. Water Frame 56
IX. Hand Mule 59
xvii
xviil CONTENTS
PAGE
X. Self-acting Mule 64
XI. Flyer, Cap and Ring Spinning Frames . . 71
CLOTH MAKING
Origin and crude beginnings. Weaving defined.
Rudimentary efforts at invention. Weaving
processes. Warp arrangement — Stretching —
Lengthening. Wefting — Shedding and Shed-
ding devices — Picking and picking devices —
Battening and battening devices. Loom frame.
Warping. Developing agencies .... 80
WEAVING TYPES
I. One-Beam Loom 114
II. Weighted Warp Loom 119
III. Two-Bar Loom 126
IV. Frameless Two-Bar Loom 130
V. Two-Beam Loom 136
VI. One-Shaft Loom 149
VII. One-Shaft Treadle Loom 153
VIII. Two-Shaft Treadle Loom 158
IX. Perfected Hand Loom 168
X. Draw Loom 185
XI. Jacquard Loom 192
XII. Plain Power Loom . . . . . .199
Appendix A — General Bibliography .... 207
Appendix B — Magazine Illustrations . . . .216
Appendix C — Books for Juveniles with Additional
Illustrations . . . . . . . . 227
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
AND THEIR SOURCE
FIG. PAGE
1. Hand-on-thigh spinning, Philippine Islands . . .18
Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes in northern
Luzon." Philippine Journal of Science.
2. Simplest spindle spinning, Salish Indians . . .22
Kissell, M. L. "A new type of spinning in North
America." American Anthropologist.
3. Ancient Egyptian twine maker . . . . .22
Champollion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de
la Nubie." Paris.
4. Navajo method of spinning 24
Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau of
American Ethnology.
5. Kwakiutl Indian spinner 25
Photograph, Field Museum.
6. Ancient Egyptian spinners, Middle Kingdom . . 29
ChampolKon, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de la
Nubie." Paris.
7. Suspended-spindle spinning, Hungary .... 30
Malonyay, D. "A Magyar n6p miivlszete." Paris:
Magyar Irod. Intezet es Konyvnyomda.
8. Spinning in the Alps, about 1000 B.C., 30 . . . 30
Forrer, R. "Reallexikon." Berlin: W. Spemann.
xix
XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FIG. PAGE
9. Winding yarn on spindle, Algeria . . . -31
Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." Leipzig:
Bibliographisches Inst.
10. Earliest spinning wheel, India .37
Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture." London: H.
Fisher, R. Fisher and P. Jackson.
11. Jersey hand wheel, Europe 38
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
12. Spinning cotton on Saxony wheel 44
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
13. Spinning flax on Saxony wheel 45
Hirth, G. "Bnderbuch." Leipzig.
14. Leonardo da Vinci's spindle, 1 500 46
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei imd Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
15. Saxony spindle, 1530 46
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
16. Saxony spindle at work 47
Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of the homespun web."
London : Vineyard Press.
17. High's Jenny, first multiple spinning, 50 . . .50
Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture." Manchester: J.
Pratt.
18. Hargreaves' improved Jenny . . . . .51
Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." New York:
The Macmillan Co.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xxi
FIG. PAGE
19. Cross section of Hargreaves' Jenny .... 52
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
20. Spindle of Jenny, 53
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
21. Arkwright's first Waterframe 56
Lamoitier, P. "Triage, peignage filature de la laine
peignee." Paris : Dunod et Pinat.
22. Arkwright's improved Waterframe . . . -57
Woolman and McGowan, "Textiles." New York:
The Macmillan Co.
23. Crompton's Hand mule 60
Lamoitier, P. "Triage, peignage filature de la laine
peignee." Paris : Dunod et Pinat.
24. Cross section of Hand mule, 61 . . . . .61
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
25. Four stages of mule spinning 65
Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials." London: Scott,
Greenwood & Sons.
26. Cross section, Flax spinning frame . . . .71
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
27. Flyer spindle 72
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
28. Ring spindle ........ 73
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
XXU LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FIG. PAGE
29. Cap spindle 73
Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." New York:
The Macmillan Co.
30. One-beam loom, North America 114
Photograph, Field Museum.
3 1 . Wool weaving on One-beam loom 115
Photograph, American Museum.
32. Measuring staff . . . . . . . • nS
Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket." American
Museum.
^$. Method of attaching warp to beam . . . .116
Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket." American
Museum.
34. TwiUed twining and one method of joining strands in
pattern making . . . . . . . .116
Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket." American
Museum.
35. An Alpine weaver, about 1000 B.C. .... iig
Kimakowicz-Winnicki, M. v. " Spinn- und Webewerk-
zeuge." Wiirzburg : C. Kabitzsch.
36. Greek weaver, 500 B.C., British Museum vase . . 120
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
37. Circe loom on Greek vase in Ashmolean Museum . .120
Hooper, L. "Technique of Greek and Roman weav-
ing." Burlington Magazine.
38. A bit of Penelope's loom, 500 B.C., from an Etruscan
vase, Chiusi Museum . . . . . . .121
Hooper, L. "Technique of Greek and Roman weav-
ing." Burlington Magazine.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXlll
FIG. PAGE
39. Scandinavian Weighted warp loom . , . .122
Roth, H. L. "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms."
Bankfield Museum.
40. Weighted warp loom of Iceland 123
Olafsen, 0. "Economic tour of Iceland." Dres-
den.
41. Simple Two-bar loom, South America . . . .126
Ephraim, H: "Veber die Entwicklung der Webe-
technik." Leipzig : K. W. Hiersmann.
42. Another crude Two-bar loom from South America . 127
Ephraim, H. "Veber die Entwicklung der Webe-
technik." Leipzig : K. W. Hiersemann.
43. Salish Indian family scene : Blanket weaving . .128
Kissell, M. L. "A new type of spinning in North
America." Am. Anthropologist.
44. Two-bar loom. West Africa . . . . . .129
Roth, H. L. "Studies in primitive looms." Blank-
field Museum.
45. Navajo woman weaving belt 130
Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri-
can Ethnology.
46. Indian belt loom, Mexico 131
Photograph, American Museum.
47. Warping for Navajo belt 132
Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri-
can Ethnology.
48. The shed-rod and rod-heddle 132
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
XXIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
riG. PAGE
49. Rod-heddle and shed-rod at work. . . .. .133
Roth, H. L. "Studies in primitive looms." Bank-
field Museum.
50. Egyptian mat loom 136
Champollion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de
la Nubie." Paris.
51. Egyptian linen loom, Middle Kingdom .... 137
Champollion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de la
Nubie." Paris.
52. Slave Indian quill belt loom 138
Roth, H. L. " Studies in primitive looms." Bankfield
Museum.
53. Navajo method of warping for blanket weaving , . 139
Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri-
can Ethnology.
54. Navajo loom . 140
Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri-
can Ethnology.
55. Zuiii belt weaver entering weft ..... 148
Mason, O. T. "Primitive frame for narrow fabrics."
National Museum.
56. Hopi belt weaver opening upper shed .... 149
Stevenson, M. "Zuni Indians." Bureau American
Ethnology.
57. Evolving heddle-harness, Ceylon 154
Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art."
Broad Campden, Gloucestershire.
58. Early Korean loom . . . . . . • 1 54
Ephraim, H. " Entwicklung der Webetechnik." Mus.
fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXV
FIG. PAGE
59. Early Chinese loom 155
Ephraim, H. " Entwicklung der Webetechnik." Mus.
fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig.
60. Another crude loom from India 1 59
"Portfolio Indian Art." South Kensington Museum.
61. Outdoor loom of the HiUs, India . , . .160
"Portfolio Indian Art.". South Kensington Museum.
62. West African weaver at crude Two-shaft treadle loom . 162
Roth, H. L. "Studies in primitive looms." Bank-
field Museum.
63. Stake warping, India 163
Watson, J. F. "The textile manufactures and cos-
tumes of the people of India." London.
64. Egyptian loom, Middle Ages . . . . .164
Gilroy, C. G. "History of silk, cotton, linen and
wool."
65. A shawl loom, Asia ....... 165
" Portfolio Indian Art." South Kensington Museum.
66. Greek loom of Middle Ages 169
Montfaucon, B. " L'antiquite expliquee et representee
en figures." Paris : F. Delaulne.
67. Perfected hand loom with fly-shuttle . . . .170
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." MacmiUan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
68. Hand shuttle 171
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
69. Fly-shuttle 171
Hooper, L. . "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
XXVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FIG. PAGE
70. Peg warping, India 173
"Portfolio Indian Art." South Kensington Museum.
71. Hungarian peasant warping 174
Malonyay, D. "A Magyar nep miiveszete." Paris:
Magyar Irod. Intezet es Konyvnyomda.
72. Loom prepared for entering 175
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
73. Shed opening mechanism 176
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
74. Hand shuttle at work 176
Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan,
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
75. Fly-shuttle at work . 177
Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving."
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co.
76. Drop-box fly-shuttle 178
Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." Leipzig:
B. F. Voigt.
77. Chinese draw loom 184
Gilroy, C. G. "History of silk, cotton, linen and
wool."
78. Japanese weaver beating-up weft and throwing shuttle 1S5
"Shokunin Burni," 1770. International Studio. New
York : John Lane Co.
79. Diagram showing action of two harness systems . .186
Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving."
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXVll
FIG. PAGE
80. Two systems of harness . . . . . .187
Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving."
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co.
81. Diagram of European draw loom . . . . .189
Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving."
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co.
82. Silk warping in ancient China. . . . . .190
Franke, O. "Keng tschi t'u Ackerbau und Seiden-
gewinnung in China. " Hamburg : L. Friederichsen.
83. Jacquard hand loom, 1804 193
Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art."
Washington.
84. Jacquard mechanism 194
Lindner, G., "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe:
F. Gutsch.
85. The Jacquard at work 195
Haussner, A. "Technologie der Faserstoffe." Leip-
zig : F. Deuticke.
86. Cartwright's first power loom, 1785 .... 199
Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art."
Washington.
87. Cartwright's second power loom, 1786 .... 200
Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art."
Washington.
88. Working parts of power loom 201
Reiser, N. "Handbuch der Weberei." Leipzig: A.
Felix.
89. Robert's loom, side elevation, 1830 . . . .202
Marsden, "Cotton weaving." London: George Bell
& Sons.
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
YARN MAKING
The story of fabric making through its long and
varied development is a fascinating tale which
reads Uke a fairy legend inspired by some magic
genii. Even in earliest times man has had a desire
to conquer the forces of nature, to harness and
control them for his good. In primitive man this
desire was so strong that he appealed to the spirit
world for aid : to the spirits of earth and sky, to
the supernatural power in plants and animals.
Likewise ancient and medieval man sought the help
of " good fairies, and good-natured giants, wishing
caps, seven league boots, magic rings, invisible
cloaks and magic wands." No doubt the behef in
these supernatural powers was an inspiration to man
as he pushed forward to conquer, but the real im-
pulse which stimulated the existence and growth of
industry, including the textile arts, was grim neces-
sity. The magic force which made possible its
achievement was man's inventive faculty respond-
ing to economic pressure. Fabric making did not
advance along the highroad of easy success. With
many hindrances and failures, by much experiment-
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
ing and testing it struggled on to successful accom-
plishment, as outlined in the following text and
pictured in the accompanying illustrations. How-
ever, no chronological sequence in development is
claimed, or one that is found in a single locality.
In these pages we will find that in no other in-
dustry has man obtained a greater mastery over the
forces of the earth than in fabric making. For
whether by means of the first awkward implements
guided entirely by hand, or by means of highly
developed self-acting tools obedient to power, he
has so harnessed nature's forces as to utilize the life
about him, both plant and animal, in supplying his
need for textiles. Crude beginnings are always
interesting, and no exception to this are the rude
attempts of people of lower culture at yarn and
cloth making. Life with them was very free and
simple, while their daily wants did not exact arts
of great complexity. At these rudimentary textile
industries primitive man took a hand in some local-
ities, and woman in other localities. How these
native spinners and weavers so cleverly devised
ways and means for handhng the fibers about them
will always remain a wonder. Admiration and
wonder are aroused not only because of the marvel-
ous feats accomplished, but because of pliabihty in
the outcome. Mystery hovers near the birth of
every practical invention be it primitive or modern ;
uncertainty, doubt, surround it. Will it prove
successful? Will it efficiently meet the necessity?
YARN MAKING 3
Directly, or indirectly, these questions are of prac-
tical and universal interest, as much to the con-
sumer as to the producer. But life did not remain
simple. " When man became a civilized being his
needs increased with his culture," and are still ex-
tending, an extension vividly reflected in his textile
arts.
Yarn means to most of us the filaments of which
cloth is made, its warp and weft. But twisted fila-
ments had another and an earlier signifi- gariy
cance to primitive peoples, since twisted Spinning
strands in the shape of lines, and lines worked into
nets for fishing and trapping wild animals, as well
as cords and string for fastening, joining and haft-
ing, helped supply man's initial need for food. For
purposes of this kind he first gathered slender trail-
ing vines, twigs and grasses that grew about him,
using them in their natural state. Later he learned
how to prepare materials better fitted for binding,
tying and sewing. Disintegrating leaves, stems
and bark might easily have suggested the artificial
extracting of vegetable fiber for this, while the skins
and tendons from animals killed on the hunt might
very naturally have suggested their stripping into
thong and sinew for the same purpose.
But whatever the function, or the material, these
early cords and yarns were always twisted. We
have no record of how twist first origi- origin of
nated, or who was its inventor. But we Spinning
do know that in a far distant epoch of the remote
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
past some " untutored savage " did think out this
greatest factor in spinning. Long before civilization
dawned, early peoples had solved many of the fun-
damental difficulties connected with spinning, for
wherever traces of prehistoric man have been found
there are remains of spun threads, or of spinning
implements. These prehistoric threads found many-
uses in fishing and hunting; for carrying earthen
vessels and other heavy objects; in navigation,
house building and cloth making. Indeed it was
the art of spinning which first gave value to the art
of loom weaving by supplying it with threads of
any desired length, strength and flexibihty. It is
yarn for this use, yarn for loom weaving, that
concerns us here.
Spinning consists of binding together a number of
loose filaments into one strand by means of twisting.
Spinning Its object is to extend and arrange the
Defined loose fibers in a somewhat parallel order,
and to bring them into close contact so as to impart
greater strength and power to resist strain. To
accomplish this, the material to be spun must pass
through three processes : attenuation, twisting and
winding. Attenuation pulls out the fibers length-
wise, arranging them more nearly parallel and length-
ening the strand ; twisting compresses the fibers so
that they He in close contact and binds them;
winding cares for the spun yarn.
The essentials of good yarn are strength, firmness
and soHdity, quahties which require that the attenu-
YARN MAKING 5
ation be regular, that is, free from knots and weak
places ; that the twist be of the correct amount and
evenly distributed ; and that the relation Yarn char-
between the degree of attenuation and acteristics
twist be carefully adjusted. Twisting weakens
fiber in proportion to the amount of twist put in,
so in yarn it is not possible to secure the fiber's full
strength. However, strength of yarn does not
depend entirely upon the toughness of fiber, since
the strain usually falls upon a longer stretch than
the length of individual fibers. Weakness therefore
results from a sHpping of the filaments upon each
other rather than from lack of inherent strength.
It is the twist which remedies this slipping and
makes twist such an important factor in spinning.
Resistance to breakage strain in addition to the
above ways may be secured by a sustained round-
ness and a uniformity in the diameter of the yarn.
Throughout the long period during which spin-
ning was being brought to perfection, man worked
for three objects : better yarn, more yarn gpi^ning
and yarn produced at less expense. How Deveiop-
these three were attained is traced here
through spinning by hand, hand spindle, wheel,
frame and machine. Attention will always be
directed to the mechanical science involved and to
the economic progress in the finished yarn. The
unfolding from simple beginnings was slow, extend-
ing over centuries. At times long unbroken inter-
vals of calm passed when advance was slight and
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
improvement was gradual. Then sudden bursts of
energy from some economic cause would produce
phenomenal changes. The Industrial Revolution
was such a period of progress and prolific invention.
Improvement in quality was dependent largely on
more perfect methods of attenuation, twisting and
winding, as observed under the Distinctive Char-
acteristics and Improved Product of the various
spinning types. Increase in output was controlled
by a number of agencies. Prominent among these
were the combining of the spinning processes, im-
proved power, the perfecting of the spinning imple-
ment and its propelling mechanism, as seen under
Distinctive Characteristics, Increased Production
and OutUne of the spinning types.
Attenuation
The first process in spinning is attenuation, or
drafting. It is of two kinds : drafting by stretch-
Drafting ^^S ^^^ drafting by drawing. In the first
Methods the tension is on greater lengths of rove
and the draft more or less uneven and
irregular, whereas in the second the tension is on
shorter lengths and the draft more even. But the
best method is a combination of the two, giving the
rove both a drawing and a stretching. When con-
sidering the means employed in this process we find
attenuation performed both by hand power and
mechanically. Attenuation by hand power, as
found in hand, hand spindle and wheel spinning, is
YARN MAKING 7
accomplished either by stretching or by drawing,
or by a combination of the two. Likewise mechani-
cal attenuation in frame and machine spinning is
produced in the three ways.
8a In the simplest Hand spinning, attenuation is by
8b drawing, but in spinning by Hand-on-the-thigh, by
the Grasped-spindle and by the Sup- Hand
ported-spindle it is accomplished by ^^^^s
stretching. The most perfect hand drafting is in
8c Suspended-spindle spinning, where the hand of the
spinner draws the rove, while at the same time the
spindle by its weight drafts it still further by
stretching. This method produces the most fault-
lessly attenuated yarn the world has ever known.
8b2 It is true the finest yarn in the world is spun in
India by the Supported-spindle. Nevertheless the
perfection of this filmy cotton thread does not
depend so much upon excellence of method as upon
the expertness of the spinner of India. Her dex-
trous fingers possess a sense of touch most acute and
delicate ; and for finest yarns the spinner's age
rarely exceeds thirty years. During spinning she
uses a chalky powder to keep the fingers dry. If
the thread is exceptionally filmy she must spin
when the dew of early morning is still upon the
ground and the air filled with moisture, or if this is
impossible she must spin over water. Still, with
all these contrivances the deft fingers do not suc-
ceed in drafting a thread of such uniform thickness
as does the Suspended-spindle. Had this been the
8 • YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
case, instead of the Suspended-spindle which per-
sisted over all Europe and the Mediterranean coun-
tries, we should have had a wide distribution of the
8d Supported-spindle. Drafting on the Asiatic and
Jersey wheels, and on the Saxony wheel, returned
to the less perfect method of attenuating by stretch-
8e ing. A distaff for holding the raw materials is
occasionally used with the Supported-spindle, es-
pecially by tribes of eastern Asia and the adjoining
islands. It is usually present with the Suspended-
spindle and the Saxony wheel.
8f The first mechanism to take the place of the
human hand in the delicate and complicated pro-
Mechanical cess of attenuation was not discovered
Drafting until many centuries after a mechanical
twisting device had been invented, and some time
after winding had become automatic. Two devices
for this appeared about the same time. The first
was a moving carriage constructed for the new
Spinning Jenny, which drafted by stretching. The
8g second was a roller mechanism for the new Water
frame, consisting of a series of rollers, each succeed-
ing set increasing in speed, which drafted by draw-
8h ing. This last proved so successful that later the
Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning frames were built on
8i the same principle of drafting by rollers. However,
this means did not make fine soft yarn needed for
specific purposes. For. the finer counts a new spin-
ning implement was devised which combined the
two kinds of drafting, first drawing the rove by a
YARN MAKING 9
series of rollers moving at different speeds, as on
the Water frame ; and then stretching it on an
improved moving carriage. This implement is the
Mule, which first took the form of the Hand Mule
and later the Self-acting Mule run by power. It
produces the most perfect mechanically drafted yarn.
Twisting
As before noted, twisting is the important factor
in spinning, since it is the process which gives
strength and elasticity to the spun yarn Twisting
by bringing the fibers composing it close ii^piement
together and binding them. Earliest twisting
between the hands, or between the palm and thigh
is laborious and slow; besides, in general it yields a
coarse product, although research in northwest
America shows that certain Indian tribes gained
great dexterity in spinning by this crude method.
Better and more expeditious twisting could only
arrive with the development of mechanical science.
This unfolding and growth showed itself in a diverse
and varied way through the mechanics of twisting,
first by the invention of a spinning device, the Hand
spindle, and then by perfecting it. The earliest
twisting devices which have been found among re-
mains of ancient civilizations, as well as those seen
to-day among the peasants and peoples of lower
culture, exhibit the nicety to which the art of
shaping, balancing and accelerating can be
brought.
lO YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
9c This perfecting culminated in the Suspended hand
spindle, which spins in the air unretarded by fric-
Free tion. It has for centuries persisted
Spindle throughout the ancient and medieval
world, even down through modern times to the
present day. Tomb paintings of the Middle King-
dom picture rows of Egyptian spinners making
yarn by this method, and Greek vases depict the
use of the same spindle. In fact no method of
spinning has had so long and wide a distribution.
Some authors hold that spindle spinning originated
with this type in its crudest form of a single stick,
or two crossed sticks, and used in each case as a
Suspended-spindle. This may have been the
earliest type in the Old World, but not in the New.
Here, from the earliest times of which we have
record, there have existed two more elementary
9a types, both as to drafting and twisting. The first
is the huge Grasped-spindle, which in a unique
manner is grasped in both hands. Its spinning end
is turned away from the spinner and twirled in the
9b air. The second t5rpe is a smaller and better
adapted Supported-spindle. By some tribes it is
revolved in a nearly horizontal position along the
thigh. By other tribes it is twirled in a nearly
vertical position between the thumb and fingers.
The India spindle for Dacca yarn is of this type,
and as has been said, spins the finest yarn in the
world. It consists of a delicate iron, or bamboo
shaft, weighted near its lower end with a small
YARN MAKING II
ball, or wheel, of baked clay. The slender rove of
short fibered cotton is so tender it would tear apart
during the twisting if the spindle did not rest in a
hollow shell. Next to the dexterity of the Dacca
spinner in drafting is her skill in putting in an
excessively close twist, which adds much to the
durability of the yarn. This extra twist is due
somewhat to the slender spindle of very light weight,
9d Mechanical science took a decided step in ad-
vance with the discovery that it was possible to
mount the spindle. Thus came into Mounted
existence the first mechanical spinning spmdie
implement, the spinning wheel. India was the
first home of this new twisting device, and it spread
to different parts of Asia as well as Europe, where
its form became slightly modified in the Jersey, or
Wool wheel. A mounted spindle gives a steadier
and consequently more certain twister than the free
spindle, whose product is more or less dependent
upon the dexterity of the spinner. The spindle's
position is horizontal, which brings the spinning end
conveniently toward the worker. In addition to
stability, the mounted spindle allows the applica-
tion of a mechanical means for rotating it. The
principle of the pulley and endless band is applied
in the shape of a large wheel, whose increased size
over the small wheel holding the spindle greatly
accelerates the twisting speed. This wheel is
driven by hand, except in China where a propelling
9e treadle is added. To the mounted spindle of the
12 ■ YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Saxony wheel is added a flyer which twists the rove
and passes it on to an independently moving bobbin.
9f This same spindle is used on the Water frame and
the Fly, Cap and Ring frames, although in both it
9g is vertical. The spindle of the Jenny is the same
shaft spindle of the Jersey wheel, as is also that of
the Mule, although they are vertical.
Winding
10 Caring for the spun yarn, or winding, is a very
great economic necessity to prevent untwisting and
Winding by tangling. The first winding was done by
Hand hand when the spun yarn was rolled into a
ball. With the advent of the spindle this imple-
ment became the receptacle for the spun yarn and
10b has so remained to the present day. On the simplest
spindles the yarn is wound by hand. First a
length of yarn is twisted, then spinning stops until
the spun length has been wound on the spindle, a
kind of spinning termed intermittent, because the
twisting and winding are separate motions. Wind-
ing was a' very backward process in becoming
automatic, although the Grasped-spindle makes a
10a crude attempt to assist in the winding. Here the
huge spindle is rocked back and forth to loop on
the spun yarn for the first winding, when it is re-
moved from the spindle for the second winding by
hand on the spindle shaft.
10c Attempts at automatic winding may be said to
date back as far as the first Asiatic spinning wheel,
YARN MAKING 1 3
although no specific winding device is present,
neither does the spindle help other than to turn,
and to act as a receptacle for the spun Automatic
yarn. The general mechanism allows "Winding
winding by turning the drive wheel, if the stretch of
spun yarn is moved so as to extend perpendicularly
to the spindle, instead of out from its point as when
lOd twisting. A similar spindle is found later on the
multiple spinning frame, the Jenny. This permits
winding by means of a moving carriage, which
moves in toward the spindles, in imitation of the
letting in of the spun yarn by the human hand on
lOe the Wool wheel. Still later this same spindle is
found on the Hand Mule and Self-acting Mule,
where it is placed on a modified form of moving
lOf carriage. The spindles of the Asiatic and Jersey
wheels, the Jenny and the two Mules put twist
into the rove, when twisting stops to give way to
winding ; then the yarn is wound on, when winding
stops to give way to twisting the next stretch of
rove. These alternating movements give the in-
lOg termittent spinning. To return to the hand wheel,
the Saxony spinning wheel has a new kind of
spindle. In addition to twisting, it assumes the
labor of winding by means of a freely moving bobbin
which automatically winds on yarn as fast as twisted
by the flyer. The double-functioned spindle intro-
duces a new method of continuous spinning, since
it allows twisting and winding without interruption.
lOh This is also the spindle of the Water frame, a
14 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
multiple spinning frame with roller drafting and
run by water or horse power. Again we find
lOi the flyer- spindle on the modern Fly spinning
machine run by steam, and in slightly modified
form on the Cap and Ring spinning machines of
the same type.
Developing Agencies
11 Early in the spinning industry an energetic agent
appeared which greatly increased speed in yarn
Combining making. It was a combining of the pro-
Processes cesses. For in some types of spinning,
the attenuating and the twisting may take place
at the same time. In others the twisting and wind-
ing may combine. Indeed, in a few types all three
11a processes are reduced to one motion. In the
simplest Hand spinning the three processes are
lib performed separately ; but in the second variety of
Hand spinning the drafting and twisting are done
lie at the same time. A backward step in this respect
is taken in Grasped-spindle spinning, for the three
processes again separate, as also in the crudest
lid variety of Supported-spindle spinning. However,
in the second variety of this type the drafting and
twisting are performed simultaneously, as also in
Suspended-spindle spinning, and in the Jersey and
Asiatic wheel spinning. The gain here is in quality
as well as in speed, since yarn is generally stronger
and more even when twist is put in during drafting,
especially when short-fibered materials are spun.
YARN MAKING 1 5
lie On the Saxony wheel all three processes are com-
bined in one motion through the invention of the
flyer spindle. This great victory in mechanical
science was won by some unknown Saxony spinner.
llf The Spinning Jenny because of a non-automatic
llg spindle lapses to two motions. The Water frame
has one motion, here the combined processes are
drafting, twisting and winding from the automatic
llh spindle. In Mule spinning control in this par-
ticular gives way to a new problem, a dominant
need for fine yarn; and the spinning again splits
to three processes, to allow for yarn quality ob-
tained only with double attenuation. The second
drafting unites with the twisting and is possible
only with the intermittent motion of the non-
lli winding spindle. With the Spinning frames there
is again united action of the three processes, and a
continuously spun thread. These, the most highly
perfected spinning machines, have a speed truly
phenomenal.
12 Another active factor which soon made its
presence felt in the spinning industry is the econo-
mizing of human energy. In the earliest conserving
types it is of special interest to watch the ^^'^''gy
freeing of the hands from the twisting process
through perfecting the spinning means, or implement.
In the most elementary Hand spinning both hands
twist jointly ; but in spinning with the Hand-on-the-
thigh one hand only need twist, because the thigh
supplies a stable working surface. The simplest
1 6 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
spindle spinning with the Grasped-spindle requires
both hands to twirl the implement. But the Sup-
ported-spindle of smaller lighter shape adapted to
support itself again frees one hand from the twist-
ing, while the Suspended-spindle with still more
perfect adjustment in size and heft releases one
hand entirely and partially frees the second. In
the earliest wheels, the Asiatic and the Jersey, one
hand propels the drive wheel ; but in the Saxony
both hands are set free by the employment of foot
power for propelling. Equally as interesting as
conserving human energy is the avoiding of me-
chanical waste. An example of this is the ehminat-
ing of friction in various ways, notably its gradual
lessening in the three types of hand spindles. The
conserving of mechanical energy by effecting better
action between the different parts of the implement,
or machine, is but one of a number of means which
will come readily to mind.
13 Of very great importance to increasing produc-
tion was the introduction of a more powerful
means for propelling the spinning imple-
ment. Although spinning by hand
power became quite successful as to speed in
Suspended-spindle spinning, it was not until this
free implement was finally mounted that much
headway could be made toward increasing output.
Even then it was with very great effort that early
inventors were able to find a substitute for hand
power, since the earliest wheels are propelled by
YARN MAKING 1 7
hand. With the Saxony wheel, it was discovered
that the foot could supplant the hand as a driving
force. This gain in improved power is traced in
the spinning types through hand, foot, horse,
water and steam power. With this last it is pos-
sible to manufacture an output of yarn such as is
needed by the world to-day.
SPINNING TYPES
I
HAND SPINNING
Distinctive Characteristics
A . Simplest method of spinning : done entirely by-
hand. No device for any of the three processes.
Attenuating, twisting and winding done between the
fingers, or palms.
Spinning processes performed separately, employing
both hands.
B. Hand and thigh spinning : the two hands and thigh
the means for spinning.
Attenuating done by left hand.
Twisting performed by right hand on thigh.
Winding performed by both hands.
Spinning intermittent : the attenuation and twisting
simultaneous, followed by winding.
Outline
Examples: A. Peasants of Sicily; B. Koryak of Si-
beria ; Tlinget of Alaska.
Implement — No artificial device.
i8
Fig. I. — Hand-on-thigh Spinning, Philippine Islands
The palm by one movement twists the two separate strands, then
by a backward movement twists the two together into two-
ply yam.
SPINNING TYPES
19
A. The two hands (l-7).
a. fingers.
b. palms.
B. Hands and thigh.
Power — Hand (13).
Motion. —
A. Three separate motions (ll, 11a).
1. attenuating.
2. twisting.
3. winding.
B. Two motions (lib).
1 . attenuating and twisting (compound process) .
2. winding.
Process — Drafting (8b).
A. with both hands.
B. with left hand.
Twisting.
A. between fingers, or two palms.
B. with right hand on thigh.
Winding with both hands.
1. Raw material drawn out into rude form of strand
(8, 8a, b).
2. Drawn strand twisted (9).
3. Twisted strand (termed rove) wound into ball (lO).
4. Rove again drawn and twisted for finished yarn.
Economic Gain
The comparison here is of 5 to ^. ^ is especially
slow in manipulation, the length of spin short, the
three processes carried on separately.
20 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
In production :
Longer spin, the distance between left hand and right
thigh.
Simultaneous drawing and twisting, one hand freed
from twisting, so that left draws while right twists.
Stationary thigh furnishes steady base upon which to
twist.
In product :
More uniform yarn from steady base upon which to
twist.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Andre, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas."
5 Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 165.
I Dellenbaugh, F. S. "North Americans of yesterday."
I Emmons, G. T. "The Chilkat blanket," American Museum
Mem. ni.
4 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles."
1 Hoffman, W. I. "The Menominee Indians." 14 Rept. Bureau
Am. Ethnology, 260.
2 Holmes, W. H. {^) "Prehistoric textile art in eastern United
States." 13 Rept. Bureau Am. Ethnology.
I Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana," 284.
I Jannasch, R. "Die Textilindustrie bei Ur und Naturvolkern."
Berliner Gesellschaft fiir Anthropologic, XX, 88.
I lochelson, W. "The Koryak." American Museum Mem. X.
I Kissell, M. L. (^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In
preparation.)
- Magazines. See magazine illustrations.
I Mason, O. T. 0) "Origin of inventions."
3 Mason, O. T. (2) "Woman's share in primitive culture."
4 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles."
4 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning." I, Introduction.
SPINNING TYPES 21
I Tylor, E. B. "Anthropology."
3 Weeden, W. B. "The art of weaving." Rept. Am. Historical
Asso. 1902. ^
4 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
I Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes in northern Luzon."
Philippine Journal of Science, I, 1906 ; also in National Geo-
graphical Magazine, Vol. 22, 914.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Andre, p. 286. Spinning cotton.
Worcester, PI. 43a. Bontoc Igorot spinning on thigh.
II
GRASPED HAND SPINDLE
Distinctive Characteristics
Simplest form of spinning implement : a spindle
grasped in two hands.
Simplest attenuating device : a tension ring through
which the rove is pulled to slightly retard it during
the stretching.
Twisting device : large hand spindle with shaft and
whorl.
No winding device : but spindle serves as appHance
upon which to wind spun yarn.
Spinning processes performed separately with both
hands.
Outline
Example : Salish tribes of North America.
Implements — Grasped spindle with
22 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
1 . shaft.
2, whorl.
Drafting ring.
a. stone.
b. wood.
c. wicker work.
Power — Hand (13) .
Motion — Three separate motions (ll, lie).
1 . attenuating.
2 . twisting.
3. winding.
Process — Stretching as rove is pulled through tension
ring.
Twisting by spindle grasped in both hands (12).
Winding (a) with both hands, or (b) by swinging
spindle grasped in both hands.
1. Rove prepared by Hand-on-thigh spinning.
2. A long length of rove pulled through tension ring
(8, 8b).
3. Stretched rove twisted by rotating with a tossing
movement the lifted spindle (9, 9a).
4. Twisted yarn after each length is spun (a) looped
on shaft by raising and lowering spindle point,
or {b) wound on spindle by hand (lO, 10a).
Economic Gain
In production :
Greater length of spin.
Introduction of twisting implement releases hands
from actual twisting.
Fig. 2. — Simplest Spindle Spinning, Salish Indians
The huge spindle twirled in air twists a long length of rove passing from a ball
over a distant bar, instead of through the usual drawing ring.
Fig. 3. — Ancient Egyptian Twine Maker
The twine is twisted by a method similar to that of the Salish Indians.
SPINNING TYPES 23
Accelerating whorl for twisting does not stop when
power stops as in Hand spinning ; although the
friction from manner of holding considerably re-
tards rotation.
A loss from return to three separate processes.
In product : (no gain) .
Poorer yarn, very much coarser than best yarn of
Hand spinning.
Uneven from imperfect drawing.
Coarse from clumsy spindle.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- Cailliaud, F. "Recherches sur les arts et metiers." (Illus-
tration.)
- Gosse, A. B. "The civilization of the ancient Egyptians."
(Illustration.)
- Guide to Anthropological collections, Victoria Museum. (Illus-
tration.)
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England."
I Kissell, M. L. (^) "A new type of spinning in North America."
Am. Anthropologist, Vol. 18, No. 2, April — June, 1916.
I Kissell, M. L. (^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In
preparation.)
- Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler," II. (Illustration.)
- Manchester, H. H. " Story of silk and Cheney silks." (Illus-
tration.)
- Miintz, E. (^) "Tapisseries." (Illustration.)
- Newberry, P. E. (}) "Beni Hasan," II. (Illustration.)
- Ronchaud, L. de. "La tapisserie." (Illustration.)
I Rosellini, I. "I monument! dell' Egitto e della Nubia" II.
(In Italian.)
- Wilkinson, J. G. " Manners and customs of ancient Egyptians."
(Illustration.)
24 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
BOOK ILLUSTRATION
Cailliaud, PI. 17 A. Man spinning with grasped spindle.
Gosse, p. 32. Man spinning.
T,^,. Woman spinning flax (fig. to left).
Guide to anthropological collections, Victoria Museum.
p. 53. Blanket-making, Vancouver Island.
James, p. 13, fig. 2. Egyptian spinner.
Kissell 0), Pi. XVI. Method of spinning in 1846.
Fig. 27. Method of spinning in 1915.
Lepsius, II, PL 126. A spinner with grasped spindle.
Manchester, p. 14, line 2, middle figure — Man spinning.
Miintz, (^) 2a. Egyptian spinner.
Newberry Q), II, PL IV, band 5 near center — Egyptian making
twine.
PL XIII, band 4 right hand — Egyptian making
twine.
Ronchaud, p. 57. Egyptian spinner (after Wilkinson).
Rosellini, II, PL XLI, fig. 4. Spinning with grasped spindle.
Wilkinson, II, p. 170. Man engaged in spinning.
Ill
SUPPORTED HAND SPINDLE
Distinctive Characteristics
A. Spinning implement: a smaller and less clumsy
spindle resting lengthwise on the right thigh.
No attenuating device : left hand drafts.
Twisting device : hand spindle rotated by right hand.
No winding device : yarn wound on spindle-shaft
with both hands.
Spinning intermittent: the twisting and winding
alternating.
Fig. 4. — The Navajo Method of Spinning
The Indian is drafting the rove preparatory to twisting, for which the upper
spindle-arm is rolled along the thigh.
Fig. 5. — A Kwakiutl Indian Spinner
Here the lower spind'.e-arm is rolled on the lower 1
for twisting.
SPINNING TYPES 2$
B. Spinning implement : a small spindle standing erect
on ground, in a shell, or in a cup.
Other details as in ^.
Outline
Examples: A. Navajo; Kwakiutl; Pima; B. Mexi-
can tribes ; Some Philippine tribes.
Implement — Small supported spindle with
1. shaft.
2. whorl.
Power — Hand (13).
Motion. —
A. Three processes separate (ll, lie).
B. Intermittent spinning (lid).
1. attenuating and twisting (compound process).
2. winding.
Process — Stretching with left hand (12).
Twisting with spindle controlled by right hand {B
puts in more twist than A).
Winding with both hands.
1. Rove prepared by Hand-on-thigh spinning, or by
modern hand cards.
2. Prepared rove, or carding, drawn out and fed to
spindle (8, 8b, 8b2, e).
A. before twisting.
B. while twisting.
3. Twisting.
A. Palm rotates spindle placed lengthwise on
thigh (9, 9b).
a. upper arm of spindle rests on thigh.
b. lower arm of spindle rests on thigh.
26 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
B. Fingers twirl spindle standing erect.
a. standing in wooden thimble between toes.
h. standing in clay bowl, or shell.
c. standing on ground.
4. Spun yarn, after each length is twisted, is wound on
spindle-shaft (lO, 10b).
5. This crude yarn generally respun for finished yarn.
6. Another spinning may be given for a fine yarn, or
two single yarns may be doubled for two-ply.
Economic Gain
In production :
A. Position of spindle removes a little friction and
permits slightly more freedom to the accelerat-
ing whorl.
Loses by shorter length of spin.
B. Simultaneous drawing and twisting frees one hand
from spindle.
Position of spindle removes all friction save at point,
permitting good use of balancing and rotary power.
Greater speed from more even movement of smaller
supported spindle.
In product :
More uniform yarn from better method of drawing
and more even spindle movement.
B gives a harder twisted yarn than A .
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Andree, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas."
I Bancroft, H. H. "Native races." I, p. 698; II, p. 485.
I Boas, F. " Kwakiutl Indians. "
SPINNING TYPES 27
2 Brooks, E. C. "The story of cotton."
1 Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art."
2 Crawford, M. D. C. "Peruvian textiles." Am. Mus. Anthro-
pological Papers, XII, Pt. III.
2 Crawford, M. D. C. " Master weavers of the desert empire."
Harper's, July, 1916.
1 DeUenbaugh, F. S. "North Americans of yesterday."
- Draper, G. O. "Labor-saving looms." (Illustration.)
4 Goddard, P. E.i "Indians of the southwest." Am. Mus.
Handbook, 2, 19 13.
2 Goddard, P. E.^ "Navajo blankets." Am. Mus. Journal.
Nov., 1910.
- Handbook Am. Indians. Bu. Am. Ethnology. Bull, ^o, II.
"Weaving." (Illustration.)
4 Holmes, W. H.^ "Textile fabrics of ancient Peru," Rept.
Bu. Am. Ethnology, 1889.
I HoUister, U. S. "The Navajo and his blanket."
I Horniman Museum Handbook, II.
I Illustrated London News Supplement, Oct. 20, 1855, p. 473.
I Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana." 285, 286.
I James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers."
I KisseU, M. L.^ "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep-
aration.)
I Mason, O. T.^ "Origin of inventions."
I Mason, O. T.^ "Woman's share in primitive culture."
I Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bu. Am. Eth-
nology.
1 Miller, M. L. "The Mangyans of Mindora." Philippine
Journal of Science, D. 7, 191 2.
2 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles."
- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.)
I Pepper, G. H. "The making of the Navajo blanket." Every-
body's Magazine, Jan., 1902.
I Russell, F. "Pima Indians." 26 Rept. Bu. Am. Ethnology.
4 Stevenson, M. "Zuni Indians." 23 Rept. Bu. Am. Ethnology.
28 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
1 Watson, J. F, "Textile manufactures and costumes of India,"
p. 64.
2 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles," p. 21.
2 Worcester, D. C. " Non- Christian tribes of northern Luzon."
Philippine Journal of Science, I, 1906.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Coomaraswamy, PI. 4, i Spinning.
6, 3 Spinning cotton.
Draper, p. 18. Early spindle.
18. Mexican spinner.
19. Two Mexican spinners.
Goddard 0), p. 50, d-e. Spindles.
152. Navajo woman spinning.
Goddard (^), p. 205. Navajo woman spinning wool.
Handbook American Indians, II.
p. 928. Navajo spinning.
HoUister, p. loi. Navajo carder.
p. III. Navajo spinner.
Holmes (^), p. 7. Peruvian spindles.
James, p. 108, fig. 131. Navajo spinning.
Magazines. See magazine illustrations.
Mason Q-), p. 76. Zuni woman spinning woolen yarn.
Matthews, PI. 34. Navajo spinning.
44. Moki spinning.
Miller, PI. 8. Spinning cotton thread.
Oppel, p. 621. Indian woman spinning in Colombia.
p., 566. Distaff and spindle of the Igorot of Luzon.
Pepper, p. 38. Navajo spinner.
Stevenson, PI. 44. Moki method of spinning.
Walton, p. 20. -Indian spinner (drawing out rove).
Watson, J. F., p. 64. Spinning fine yarn for Dacca muslins.
Woolman and McGowan, p. 20. Navajo spinning.
Worcester, PI. 44. A Tingian woman spinning cotton.
SPINNING TYPES
29
IV
SUSPENDED HAND SPINDLE
Fig. 6. — ^ Ancient Egyptian Spinners, Middle Kingdom
Right, spinner twisting simultaneously two lines of rove by rolling spindle on
thigh. Left, dextrous Egyptian doubling yarn. Four single yarns are
being twisted into two two-ply yarns.
Distinctive Characteristics
Spinning implement : a spindle freely suspended from
the thread it is spinning. A Distaff for holding raw
material frequently present.
Attenuating device: spindle stretches rove after hands
have drawn it.
Twisting device : hand spindle rotated by right hand
and let swing.
so
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
No winding device : spindle used to hold spun yarn.
Spinning intermittent.
Outline
Example : Peasants of
southern Europe, and
tribes of Central
Asia.
Implement — Sus-
pended spindle.
a. a stone.
b. shaft with cleft,
or hook.
c. shaft with cross
bar and hook.
d. shaft with whorl
and hook.
e. shaft with whorl,
no hook.
Distaff frequently
present.
Power — Hand (13).
Motion. — Intermittent
(11, lid).
1 . attenuating and
twisting (compound
process) .
2 . winding.
Fig.
- Suspended-Spindle Spin-
ning, Hungary
The flax is drawn from the distafi with one Process
hand and the spindle twirled by the
fingers of the other hand.
Drawing with both
Fig. 8. — Spinning in the Alps, about iooo b.c.
On the left is a quaint spinner with suspended spindle etched on the neck
of an old tomb um.
Fig. g. — Winding Yarn on Spindle, Algeria
The spun yarn kept stretched by the spindle weight is first wrapped about
the fingers as it is drawn in. Later it is unwrapped from them as it is
wound upon spindle.
SPINNING TYPES 3 1
hands, followed by stretching with spindle.
Drawing regulated by careful adjustment of
spindle weight (12).
Twisting with spindle managed by right hand.
Winding with both hands.
1. Raw material attached to distaff held in left hand,
under arm, or thrust into belt ; or material
made into loose carding, or rove.
2. Raw material, or rove, drawn out and fed to spindle
which continues to stretch rove by its weight
(8, 8c, 8e).
3. Spindle rotated by (9, 9c).
a. rolling with right palm on thigh and let
swing.
b. twirling between thumb and first finger and let
swing.
4. Spun yarn wound on spindle shaft after each
stretch is twisted (lO, 10b).
5. Yarn may be respun for harder twist, or doubled
for two-ply, four-ply, or eight-ply yarns.
Economic Gain
In production :
Greater length of spin.
Increased momentum of free spindle by eliminating
friction.
Double means for drawing : the spindle and the entire
use of one hand and part time of the other.
In product :
Yarn of great evenness, strength and deHcacy.
32 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Evenly attenuated yarn because of double drafting
by the hands and spindle weight.
Of regular twist because twisted with tension, a close
twist because of rapidly moving free spindle.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture, " 68.
I Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of a home-spun web."
I Brooks, E. C. "The story of cottom."
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei."
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illus-
tration.)
- Cailliaud, F. "Recherches sur les arts et metiers." (Illus-
tration.)
- Coles, F. R. "Scottish spindles and whorls." (Illustration.)
Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist V.
- Davies, N. de G. "Five Theban tombs." (Illustration.)
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning."
I Erman, A. "Life in ancient Egypt."
- Forrer, R. "Reallexikon der prahistorischen klassischen und
friichristlichen Altertiimer." (Illustration.)
5 Garnett, A. "Hand spinning."
3 Garstang, J. "Burial customs in ancient Egypt."
I Gibbs, C. "Household textiles."
4 Gilroy, C. G. (^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool," i5,
343-
- Gosse, A. B. "The civilization of ancient Egypt." (Illus-
tration.)
I Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture."
I Hooper, L. (}) "Hand loom weaving."
3 Hooper, L. " The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3120.
(*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I Horner collection, Belfast Municipal Mus., p. 2, Nos. 7, 36, 63, 64.
SPINNING TYPES
33
I Horniman Museum handbook II, 36, 37.,
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 11,
12, 334-
- Keller, F. "Lake dwellings of Switzerland." (Illustration.)
- Kimakowicz-Winnicki. "Spinn- und Webewerkzeuge in vor
geschichtlicher Zeit Europas." (Illustration.)
- Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler" IV. (Illustration.)
3 Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei."
- Manchester, H. H. "Story of silk and Cheney silks." (Illus-
tration.)
I Marsden, R. Q) "Cotton spinning," 3, igo.
1 Mason, 0. T. (^) "Origin of inventions."
3 Mason, 0. T. (^) "Woman's share in primitive culture."
- Maspero, G. "Dawn of civilization in Egypt and Chaldaea."
(Illustration.)
- Miintz, E. (^) "Tapisseries." (Illustration.)
2 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II.
I Nasmith, J. " Students' cotton spinning."
- Newberry, P. E. (i) "Beni Hasan," I, II, IV. (Illustration.)
- Newberry, P. E. (2) "El Bersheth," I. (Illustration.)
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning."
1 Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe."
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
- Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." (Illustration.)
- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.)
- Rosellini, I. "Monumenti dell Egitto e dello Nubia." (Illus-
tration.)
- Roth, H. L. Q) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms."
Bankfield Mus. Series 2, No. 2. (Illustration.)
- Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." (Illustration.)
- Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture." (Illustration.)
4 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction.
2 Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crops."
2 Tylor, E. B. "Anthropology."
- Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II. (Illustration.)
34 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning," 6, 193.
I Walton, P. "Story of textiles."
I Warden, A. J. "Linen trade ancient and modern."
I Watson, J. F. "Textile manufacture in India."
I Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing."
3 Weeden, W. B. "Art of weaving." Rept. Am. Historical
Asso., 1902.
I Wilkinson, J. G. " Manners and customs of ancient Egyptians."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 49. Ancient Greek spinner.
Blount, p. 2. Spindle spinning.
II. Two spinners with distaff and spindle.
Brooks, p. 147. Street scene in Naples.
Briiggemann, p. 35. Peasants spinning flax and wool in 1544.
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. i. Greek spinner.
Cailliaud, PL 17 A. Egyptian spinners, figs, i, 2, 3, 7, 8.
Coles, p. 80. Typical spindle.
81. Spindle from St. Kilda.
81. Spindle and whorl from Scotland.
81. Spindle and whorl from Cullybocky.
82. Two carved spindle butts.
83. 84, 85, 86. Spindle whorls.-
Davies, PL 38. Spinning in XI Dynasty, 2000 B.C.
Erman, p. 448. Spinning and unraveling the flax.
Forrer, Tafel, 152, fig. 5. Spinner on urn from Oedenburg.
278, fig. I. Spinner on urn from Oedenburg.
2, figs. II, 12. Spindle whorls.
35, fig. 3. Spindle whorls.
185, fig. 5. Spindle whorls.
89, figs. 82, 87. Spindle whorls.
Garstang, p. 135. Spinning at Abu-Kirkas, Egypt, to-day.
Gosse, p. 2,3- Woman spinning flax (center figures).
Guest, PI. I. Distaff spinning.
SPINNING TYPES 35
Hooper Q), fig. 4. Distaff.
5. Spinning with distaff and spindle.
6. Spindle.
PI. II. Egyptian spindle.
V. Greek vase painting.
VI. Spindle whorls from ancient Greece.
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 3. Primitive spindles — Egypt, Peru, Guiana,
Great Britain, Colombia, Paraguay.
5. Peasant spinning.
James, p. 13, fig. i. Egyptian spindles.
6. Egyptian spinner.
Keller, PI. 3, fig. 13. Spindle whorl of earthenware.
57, fig. 6. Whorl of earthenware.
64, figs. 12-16, 18. Whorl of earthenware,
fig. 17. Whorl of stag's horn.
Kimakowicz-Winnicki, p. 11. Roman spindles and whorls.
24. Siebenburgisch-deutschen whorls.
59. Neolithic whorls.
Lepsius, IV Abth. II, PI. 126. Egyptian spinner.
Lindner, Title page — Greek spinner.
p. I. Hand spindle.
•Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Manchester, p. 14. Egyptian women spinning.
Marsden Q-), p. 193. Greek spinner.
Maspero, p. 57. Egyptian woman spinning.
Muntz (^), p. 2 a, b. Egyptian spinners.
Murphy, II, p. 136. Spindle and distaff.
Newberry Q-), I, PI. 29. Egyptian spinner.
II, 4. Egyptian spinners.
II 13. Egyptian spinners.
IV 15. Egyptian spinner.
Newberry {^), I, PI. 26. Egyptian spinners.
Oppel, p. 202. Peasant family spinning.
203. Hausa spindles.
204. Spinning. Nigeria.
36 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Pictorial Gallery of Arts.
I, p. 99. Distaff spinning.
Ronchaud, p. 57. Egyptian spinners.
Rosellini, II, PL 41. Egyptian spinners.
Roth, p. 12. Egyptian spinners.
Schurtz, p. 237. Algerian spinner.
Simmonds, II, p. 201. Ancient distaff spinsters.
Todd, p. 276. Hand spinning in Egypt.
Tylor, p. 247. Egyptian woman spinning.
Ure, II, p. 255. Ancient distaff spinsters.
Vickerman, p. 195. Spinster with distaff and spindle.
Walton, P., p. 16. Greek and Roman method of spinning.
106. Distaff spinning.
Watson, J. T., p. 16, I. Spinning fine yarn.
Watson, K., p. 2. The thread of life.
4. Italian woman spinning flax.
7. Russian spinning.
Wilkinson, J. G., I, p. 319. Egyptian spinners.
II, p. 170. Egyptian spinners.
172. Egyptian spindles.
Woolman and McGowan, p. 17. Spinning with distaff and spindle.
19. Hand in action.
v
JERSEY AND ASIATIC WHEELS
Distinctive Characteristics
Earliest spinning contrivance worked mechanically : a
spinning wheel with drive wheel and spindle ; built
on principle of supported hand spindle.
No attenuating device : left hand drafts.
First mechanical twisting device : a spindle mounted
horizontally and driven by large wheel.
SPINNING TYPES
37
First mechanical winding device: spindle capable of
winding on yarn.
Spinning intermittent.
Fig. io. — Earliest Spinning Wheel, India
A mounted spindle is turned by a large hand-driven wheel by means of
an endless band.
Outline
Examples : Jersey wheel, Europe ; Teakwood wheel,
Asia ; Brunswick wheel, Europe.
Implement — One-band spinning wheel.
1. standard supporting spindle and drive wheel.
2. horizontal spindle parallel to axis of drive wheel
(three spindles on a Chinese treadle wheel of
this type).
38 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
3. large smooth-rimmed or one-grooved drive wheel
which transmits power to spindle by single
band.
Fig. II. — Jersey Hand Wheel, Europe
Wheel for wool or cotton. Top view shows spindle at left. Front view
shows drive wheel propelled by hand and belt connecting wheel
with spindle.
4. wheel driven by
a. hand, or loose stick.
b. crank.
c. treadle.
Power — a. Right hand propels wheel (13).
b. Foot propels treadle wheel (Chinese).
Motion. — Intermittent (ll, lid).
1 . attenuating and twisting (compound process) .
2. winding.
SPINNING TYPES 39
Process —
Stretching with left hand (12).
Twisting with spindle, left hand controls yarn.
Winding by spindle, left hand controls yarn.
1. Raw material made into loose carding.
2. Carding attached to spindle point and continu-
ously fed to it as hand holds carding in a line
with spindle point, while motion is given to
drive wheel. Carding is stretched and twisted
simultaneously (8, 8d, 9, 9d).
3. When length of rove has been twisted it is
brought at right angles to the spindle and
wound on as the hand moves toward spindle
(10, 10c).
4. Coarse first spinning (rove) is respun for finished
yarn.
5. Yarn may be respun for harder twist, or doubled
for two-ply.
Economic Gain
Only a sHght gain in output over Suspended spindle
spinning, but the new invention leads the way for
further advance.
In production :
Mounted spindle gives steady spinning.
Drive wheel and endless band assuring constant spindle
rotation.
Large-size wheel propels smaller wheel, utilizing a
multiplying power for greater speed.
Mechanical winding.
40 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
In product :
Coarser yarn.
Far less perfect yarn than the Suspended spindle gives
with its double drafting and twisting with tension.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
3 Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 68, 117.
3 Banerjei, N. N. 0) "Woollen fabrics in Bengal" (Separate),
p. 21.
3 Banerjei, N. N. {^). "Cotton fabrics in Bengal." (Separate),
p. 41.
3 Brooks, E. C. " Story of cotton."
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.)
- Cavendish, A. E. J. "Korea and the sacred white mountain."
(Illustration.)
I Earl, A. M. "Home life in colonial days," 196.
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning."
3 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles."
5 Gilroy, C. C. (^) "History silk, cotton, linen, wool," 341.
3 Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture," 7, 13.
I Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3120.
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914-
3 Horner collection in Belfast Municipal Museum, 3-5.
I Horniman Museum handbook, II, 37.
3 Illustrated London News Supplement Oct. 20, 1855, 473.
"Indian cotton — The webs of Dacca."
I James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England,"
334, 335-
Journal Indian art and industry.
3 VIII, Banerjei, N.N. C) "Cotton fabrics in Bengal."
I X, Brendon, B. A. "Woolen fabrics in Bombay."
I X, Silberrad, C. A. "Cotton of Northwestern
provinces."
SPINNING TYPES 41
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei."
I Marsden, R.(0 " Cotton spinning."
3 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II.
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning."
5 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles."
- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.)
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
4 Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist V. "Spinning in
Persia," 80.
- Roth, H. L. (3) "Natives of Sarawak, British N. Borneo."
1 Simmonds, P. L. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 226.
2 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I, Introd., p. xxvii.
- "Tops." Arlington Mills, Lawrence, Mass. (Illustration.)
1 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 193.
5 Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning."
2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles."
4 Walton, W. "Cotton in Bombay Presidency."
5 Watson, J. F. "Textile manufactures and costumes of India,"
- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.)
5 Wilkinson, F. "The story of the cotton plant."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Banerjei (^), PL 7. Woman spinning cotton.
Baines, p. 68. Teakwood wheel.
118. One-thread wheel.
Brooks, p. 63. Spinning by hand in a colonial home.
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. 2. Hindoo wheel,
fig. 3. Britain wheel.
Cavendish, p. 52. Spinning.
Earl, p. 36. Wool wheel in background.
197. Wool spinning.
Gibbs, p. 25. Wool wheel.
Gilroy (2), PL 2 b. Egyptian woman spinning.
Guest, PL 3. Roving by hand wheel.
42 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Guest, PL 3. Spinning by hand wheel.
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 6. Sarawak native spinning.
Horner collection, PL 2, i. Wheel from India.
2, 3. Three spindle wheel from China
(with treadle).
3. Wheel from Teneriffe, Canary Islands.
James, p. 13, fig. 9. Spinning with wool wheel.
Journal Indian art and industry.
VIII, Banerji (^), PL 81. Woman spinning cotton.
X, Brandon, PL 10. Spinning woolen yarn.
X, Silberrad, PL 14. Spinning cotton.
Lindner, p. i. One- thread spinning wheel.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Marsden 0), p. 194. Indian girl spinning.
195. Single thread spinning.
Murphy, II, p. 138. Primitive spinning wheel.
Ill, 60. Spinning and doubling for the Cashmere shawl.
Oppel, p. 207. Spinning wheel of India.
223. English spinner.
546. Spinning wheel of Turkestan.
552. Hand spinning in China (wheel worked by foot).
Pictorial Gallery of Arts.
I, p. 96. Hindoo woman spinning cotton.
104. Jersey wheel.
Reliquary and illustrated archaeology.
V, p. 80. Spinning in Persia.
Roth, p. 31. Spinning wheel.
Simmonds, p. 226. Jersey wheel.
227. Hindoo spinning cotton yarn.
"Tops," p. 13. Fourteenth-century wool wheel.
Ure, p. 194. Jersey wheel.
195. Hindoo spinning cotton yarn.
Vickerman, p. 197. Hindoo spinner.
199. One-thread wheel.
201. Spinning (wheel turned by crank).
SPINNING TYPES 43
Walton, p. 52. Japanese spinner.
60. Ancient Egyptian spinning.
64. A Hindoo spinning cotton yarn.
112. Spinning by hand wheel.
Walton, Series 2, No. 19. The spinning wheel.
20. The spinning wheel at work.
Watson, p. 9. Colonial wool wheel.
13. Syrian spinning.
Wilkinson, p. 117. Jersey spinning wheel.
Woolman and McGowan, p. 21. The Gharka wheel.
22. The great wheel.
VI
SAXONY WHEEL
Distinctive Characteristics
Earliest spinning contrivance for carrying on all three
processes continuously : a spinning wheel with auto-
matic-winding spindle rotated by foot. A distaff
may be attached or separate.
No attenuating device : both hands draft.
Twisting device : a spindle with flyer and independently
moving bobbin.
First automatic winding device : the spindle-bobbin.
First continuous spinning : the three processes carried on
simultaneously.
Outline
Example : Saxony wheel of Europe.
Implement —
a. Two-band spinning wheel.
b. One-band spinning wheel (a later development).
44
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Reproduced by permission from Hooper's Hand Loom
Weaving, Macmlllan, U.S.A., and John Hogg, London.
Fig. 12. — Spinning Cotton on Saxony Wheel
This treadle wheel, worked by foot power, frees both hands to draft the
rove or carding of cotton. The spindle simultaneously twists and
winds.
SPINNING TYPES
45
Fig. 13. — Spinning Flax on Saxony Wheel
The flax is drawn from the distaff and drafted before passing it on to the
spindle for twisting and winding.
46 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I. Standard supporting spindle, distaff, drive wheel
with attached treadle for driving wheel. (Ex-
ception : the Picardy wheel turned by crank.)
Fig. 14. — Leonardo da Vinci's Spindle, 1500
(A drawing found in one of his sketch-books)
This spindle can simultaneously twist and wind. Bobbin (left of center)
with large pulley (center) runs loosely on spindle shaft. Flyer (ex-
treme left) and small pulley (right of center) are attached to spindle
shaft. A band about each pulley rotates the bobbin and flyer at
different speeds, while the end attachment (extreme right) regulates
the position of bobbin and flyer during winding.
Fig. 15. — Saxony Spindle, 1530
(The first fly spindle put to practical use)
This more compact double-functioned spindle twists and winds contin-
uously, spreading the yarn on the bobbin by a row of hooks on
one arm of the flyer. The spinner from time to time shifts the
yam from one hook to the other. The flyer wheel (right) is larger
than the bobbin wheel next it and so rotates less rapidly than the
bobbin wheel.
2 . Horizontal spindle supported at both ends, with
flyer and bobbin moving at different speeds.
(Later two spindles were placed on spinning
wheel. Still later there was an automatic
spreader for yarn.)
3. (a) drive wheel with two bands, one to spindle,
one to bobbin.
SPINNING TYPES
47
(b) drive wheel with one band to spindle, drag
of yarn retards bobbin.
4. Distaff usually present.
The Saxony Spindle at Work
The rove to be spun is passed through the hollow spindle end and on to
the flyer hooks when it is tied to the bobbin shaft. When the large
wheel (extreme right) is turned, the two connecting bands give rapid
motion to the flyer and more rapid to the bobbin. The flyer twists
the rove and also spreads the twisted yarn on the bobbin, while the
bobbin winds on.
Power — Foot propels wheel (13).
Hands attenuate.
Motion — Continuous, the three processes proceed simul-
taneously (11, lie).
I. attenuating, twisting, winding (triple process).
48 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Process — Attenuation by hands (12).
Twisting by spindle-flyer.
Winding by spindle-bobbin.
1. Raw material pulled from distaff, or from carded
roll in lap, and after attaching to spindle, it
is fed to spindle, attenuating while doing so
(8, 8d, Be).
2. At the same time drive wheel turned by treadle
rotates flyer and bobbin, which twist and wind
on the spun yarn continuously (9, 9e) (lO, lOg.)
3. Yarn may be respun for a harder twist, or
doubled for two-ply.
Economic Gain
In production :
Greater speed given through division of labor by add-
ing foot power to propel, and freeing both hands for
drafting.
The double-functioned spindle automatically winds
while twisting.
All three spinning processes simultaneous.
Distaff adds ease in caring for raw material.
In product :
Better attenuated yarn through the use of the thumb
and fingers of both hands.
Rounder thread from passing through spindle opening.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
2 Barker, A. F. "Textiles."
I Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of a homespun web."
- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." (Illustration.)
SPINNING TYPES 49
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei."
- Clapham, J. H. "The woollen and worsted industries."
(Illustration.)
- Draper, G. O. "Labor-saving looms." (Illustration.)
4 Earl, A. M. "Home life in colonial days," 174.
- Emery, M. S. "How to enjoy pictures." (Illustration.)
1 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning."
2 Garnet, A. "Hand spinning."
2 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle past, present and future."
(•'') Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 3121.
("•) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I Horner collection in Belfast Municipal Museum.
1 Horniman Museum handbook, II, 38.
2 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 335.
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei;" 2.
I Marsden, R. Q-) "Cotton spinning."
1 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II.
2 Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning."
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning."
- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.)
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
I Simmonds, P. L. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 235.
6 Taggart, W. S. Cotton spinning, I. Intro. XXVIII.
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture in Great Britain," I, 205.
I Warden, A. J. "The linen trade ancient and modern," 687.
5 Walton, P. "Story of textiles."
5 Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing."
3 Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant."
I Woolman and McGowan, "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Barker, p. 87. Double-grooved wheel.
88. Diagram of flyer and bobbin.
Blount, figs. 11-17. Flax wheel and parts.
E
50 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Brooks, p. 59. Early flax wheel.
Briiggemann, p. 36 a. Spindle with bobbin and flyer.
b. Spinning wheel with one band.
c. Spinning wheel with two bands.
Clapham, p. 32. Spinning wool on Saxony wheel.
Draper, p. 23. Colonial spinner.
Earl, p. 74. Flax wheel by Whittier's fireplace.
186. Flax spinning.
Emery, p. 107. Old spinner, by Maas.
Garnett, pp. 10, 15. Flax wheel.
Hooper (i), fig. 7. Spinning with wheel.
Hooper (^) (^), fig. 22. Leonardo da Vinci's drawing of flyer.
Horner collection, Belfast museum.
PL I . Wheels from Ireland ; England ; Hungary ; Tus-
cany ; Upper Austria.
4. Wheels from Picardy, France ; Cambrai, France.
5. Exceptional wheel from Holland ; wheel from Rhine-
land, Germany.
6. Wheels from Bavaria, Germany; Wxirtemberg, Ger-
many.
7. Wheels from Bohemia ; Russia.
8. Wheels from Tyrol ; Poland ; Portugal ; Russia.
Lindner, p. 2. Spinning wheel.
2. Flyer and bobbin spindle.
74. Spindle of Leonardo da Vinci.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Marsden, p. 207. Spindle, flyer and bobbin.
Murphy, II, p. 134. Lady Hamilton as spinstress. (Painting by
Romney.)
140. Saxony wheel.
141. Saxony spindle and flyer.
Oppel, p. 218. Spinning wheel of Johann Jiirgens.
Pictorial Gallery of Arts.
p. 108. Spinning wheel.
108. Flax spinning wheel.
Fig. 17. — High's Jenny, First Multiple Spinning, 1763-4
Six-multiple spinning frame built on the principle of the Hand Wheel. High at back
is the first mechanical drafting device — - clove bars tightly clasping six hnes of
rove.
Fig. i8. — Hargreaves' Improved Jenny, 1767
Right, horizontal moving carriage with clove bars is shoved back and
forth by left hand. Drive wheel turned by right hand rotates
spindles by means of endless bands and a cylinder. Center, row of
8 to 16 rove bobbins. Left, row of 8 to 16 non-automatic spindles.
The Jenny here is ready to wind; its carriage has drafted rove on
its outward course and the spindles have put in twist ; now they are
ready to wind on with the inward run of the carriage.
SPINNING TYPES 5 1
Rohn, p. 5. Treadle spinning wheel.
Simmonds, p. 234. Domestic flax wheel.
235. Spindle, flyer, bobbin.
Ure, p. 204. Domestic flax wheel.
205. Spindle, flyer, bobbin.
Walton, p. 68. Domestic flax wheel.
252. Flax spinning.
Watson, p. 7. Spinning with crude wheel and distafif.
8. "Gossip" in olden times.
10. Colonial flax wheel.
11. Dutch wheel.
Woolman and McGowan, p. 25. The flax wheel.
27. Detail of flyer.
VII
JENNY SPINNING FRAME
Distinctive Characteristics
Earliest contrivance for spinning a number of threads
and one which performs all three processes mechani-
cally : a frame holding drive wheel, row of spindles, a
moving carriage and row of rove bobbins ; built on
principle of Jersey wheel.
First mechanical attenuating device for stretched rove :
carriage receding from spindles.
Twisting device : row of vertical spindles of the Jersey
wheel type.
Winding device : spindles and the returning carriage.
Spinning intermittent.
Outline
Example : Hargreaves' spinning jenny.
Implement — Spinning jenny.
52 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I. frame supporting row of vertical spindles (Jersey
wheel type), drive wheel, a moving carriage
and creel of rove bobbins.
19. — Cross Section or Hargreaves' Jenny
The Jenny here pictured is ready to draft and twist. The carriage is starting
on its outward run with the rove clasped between the clove bars. As the
left hand moves the carriage outward towards the worker the rove be-
tween the spindles and clove is drafted. Meanwhile the right hand and
drive wheel turn the spindles which twist the rove.
2. spindles with faller-wire at back of frame.
3. moving carriage with clove bars.
4. drive wheel turned by crank rotates spindles by
means of band and cylinder.
Power — Right hand propels wheel (l3).
Left hand moves carriage and faller-wire (earlier toe-
managed faller-wire.)
SPINNING TYPES
53
Motion — Intermittenf(ll, Hf)-
1. attenuating and twisting (compound process)
2. winding.
Process — Stretching by moving carriage (12).
Twisting by spindle.
Winding by spindle and moving carriage.
1. Carriage placed in front of spindles
and rove bobbins on creel, rove
carried through clove bars to
spindles.
2 . Carriage recedes short distance from
spindles measuring off length of
rove to be spun, clove bars then
close (8, 8f).
3. Carriage recedes to end of traverse
stretching rove, while spindles
rotated by drive wheel give
twist to stretched rove (9, 9d, g).
4. Carriage stops, spindles put in more
twist.
5. Carriage slightly backs, faller-wire
drops carrying yarn from spin-
dle-tip to winding position.
6. Carriage returns to spindles as spun
yarn is wound on (lO, lOd).
Fig. 20. — Spin-
dle OF Jenny
Economic Gain
In production :
Multiplication of threads, one person
works a number of spindles, only
This non-auto-
matic spindle is
like that of the
Jersey Wheel.
It intermit-
tently twists
and winds.
(The spindle
shaft and whorl
are white.)
54 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
limited to strength and endurance of man to run
machine.
Mechanical attenuation of yarn ; limited to definite
length.
In product (no gain) :
Yarn not strong (inferior to that from Saxony wheel) .
QuaHty of product not in proportion to quantity of
product.
Inferior yarn from " stretch " attenuation.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 155.
3 Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton," 86.
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei."
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.)
4 Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade."
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning," "Cotton manufacture."
-Farrar, F. L. "Factories and great industries." (Illustrations.)
4 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles."
I Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture."
- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(Illustration.)
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 3121.
(■*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
1 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 345.
2 Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei."
I Marsden, R. Q) "Cotton spinning."
4 Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning."
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III.
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning," 16.
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." ,
- Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.)
SPINNING TYPES 55
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
2 Priestman, H. "Principles of woolen spinning," 23.
I Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture," I, 227.
3 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction XXXII.
1 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 195.
- Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning." (Illustration.)
2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 142 [picture legend] 136.
I Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 158. Spinning jenny.
Brooks, p. 86. Spinning jenny.
Briiggemann, p. 37. Hargreaves' mule-jenny spinning machine.
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. 5. Jenny of 1764.
Farrar, p. 14. Hargreaves' spinning jenny.
Guest, PL 6. High's jenny.
7. The improved jenny.
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 23. Hargreaves' spinning jenny.
James, p. 343, fig. 2. Hargreaves' spinning machine,
Lindner, p. 75. Jenny spindle.
76. Outline of jenny.
Marsden, p. 203. Hargreaves' jenny improved.
Murphy, III, p. 40. Hargreaves' spinning jenny,
Nystrom, p. 21. Spinning jenny.
Oppel, p. 225. Hargreaves' spinning jenny.
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I, p. 97. Hargreaves' jenny.
Priestman, p. 24. Diagram of Hargreaves' jenny.
Simmonds, I, p. 231. Hargreaves' spinning jenny, improved form,
Ure, I, p. 199. Hargreaves' spinning jenny, improved form.
Vickerman, p. 207. Hargreaves' jenny.
Walton, p. 136. High's jenny.
142. Improved jenny.
Wilkinson, p. 124. Hargreaves' jenny.
Woolman and McGowan. Hargreaves' spinning jenny.
56 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
VIII
WATER FRAME
Distinctive Characteristics
Earliest spinning contrivance where the three processes
are mechanical and continuous : a frame with drive
wheel, roller drawing device, and row of automatic-
winding flyer-spindles so arranged as to move in unison
and with power applied at one point ; built on prin-
ciple of Saxony wheel.
First mechanical attenuating device for drawn rove : a
series of pairs of rollers moving at increased speeds.
Twisting device : row of flyer-spindles.
Winding device : the row of automatic- winding spindles.
Spinning continuous.
Outline
Example : Arkwright's Water frame.
Implement — Water frame.
1. frame with row of vertical spindles, drawing rollers,
creel of rove bobbins and driving mechanism.
2. flyer-spindles with automatic bobbin for building
cop.
3 . series of pairs of drawing rollers in front of rove creel.
4. cog-wheel, shaft and drum for driving.
Power — Horse power propels entire mechanism (13).
Later, water power.
Still later, steam power (1790).
Motion — Continuous (ll, llg).
I. attenuating, twisting and winding.
Fig. 21. — Arkwright's First Water Frame, 1770
The first spinning contrivance where all three processes are mechan-
ical and continuous.
Fig. 22. — Arkwright's Improved Water Frame
Built on the principle of the Saxony Wheel, but with an improved method of roller
drafting. Above, draft rollers. Below, flyer spindles. Left, wheel which propels
the entire mechanism.
SPINNING TYPES 57
Process — ^ Drawing by rollers (12).
Twisting by spindle-flyer.
Winding by spindle-bobbin.
1. Creel filled with rove bobbins, rove passed to
drawing rollers.
2. Cog-wheel, shaft and drum set all parts of frame
in motion.
3. Rove drawn as it passes between successive pairs
of rollers moving at increased speeds (8, 8g).
4. Spindle twists drawn rove as it comes from last
drawing roller and winds twisted yarn on
bobbin (9, 9e, f, 10, lOg, h).
Economic Gain
In production :
Mechanical working of all processes.
Union of all parts in concerted action.
Automatically winding spindle.
In product :
Not very fine yarn.
Hard twist, suitable for warp.
Strong and even yarn from improved attenuation by
drawing.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 147.
I Barker, A. F. "Textiles."
3 Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton," 85.
I Briiggeman, H. "Die Spinnerei."
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra-
tion.)
58 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
S Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade."
1 Encyclopaedia Britannica. " Spinning," " Cotton manufacture,"
"Woolen and worsted manufacture."
- Farrar, F. A. " Factories and great industries." (Illustration.)
4 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles."
- Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture." (Illustration.)
2 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present, future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3 121.
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 343.
- Lindner, G. " Spinnerei und Weberei." (Illustration.)
I Marsden, R. "Cotton spinning."
5 Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning," 149.
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III.
3 Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning."
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning."
- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.)
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, London I. (Illustration.)
I Simmonds, P. L. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 237, 245, 255.
3 Taggert, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction.
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 232.
1 Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning," 204.
2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 154 (picture legend).
I Wilkinson, F. "The story of the cotton plant."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 139. Paiil's spinning machine.
152. Sir Richard Arkwright's spinning machine.
Barker, p. 90, 92, 93, 97, 98. Drafting rollers.
95. Arkwright's water frame.
Briiggemann, p. 38. Arkwright's spinning machine.
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. 4. Roller spinning frame.
fig. 6. Water frame.
Farrar, p. 15. Arkwright's spinning machine, 1769.
SPINNING TYPES 59
Guest, PI. 8. Section of the water frame,
g. Front view of ■ water frame.
Hooper (^) (■*), fig. 22. Paiil or Arkwright drawings for rollers.
24. Arkwright's water frame.
James, p. 343, fig. i. Arkwright's spinning machine.
Lindner, p. 75 a. Spindle of water frame.
Marsden, p. 212. Arliwright's spinning frame.
213. Spinning frame, section.
Murphy, III, p. 45. Arkwright's water frame.
Oppel, p. 227. Arkwright's water frame.
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I.
, p. 96. Arkwright's spinning machine.
Simmonds, I, p. 255. Arkwright's water frame.
Ure, I, p. 232. Arkwright's water frame.
Vickerman, p. 205. Roller drawing.
Walton, p. 154. Arkwright's water frame with patent specifica-
tions.
Wilkinson, p. 130. Arkwright's machine (after Baines).
Woolman and McGowan, p. 35. Arkwright's water frame.
IX
HAND MULE
Distinctive Characteristics
Earliest mechanical contrivance for spinning fine yarn : a
frame compounded of the Water frame and the Jenny,
with new form of moving carriage, bearing spindles.
First mechanical device for a double attenuation of rove :
rollers for drawing and receding carriage for stretching.
Twisting device : row of spindles of Jenny type which
twist while moving and while stationary.
Winding device : spindles on returning carriage.
Spinning intermittent.
6o
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Outline
Example : Crompton's mule.
Implement — Mule spinning frame.
I. frame with drawing device, headstock and moving
carriage with spindles of Jersey wheel type.
Fig. 23. — Crompton's Hand Mule
Crompton's Mule combined the best points of the Jenny and
Water frame. Double drafting was secured by the draw-
ing rollers and the moving carriage.
2. pairs of drawing rollers and creel of rove bobbins.
3. carriage that may be wheeled out and back with
row of spindles.
4. headstock with driving parts.
Power — Hand ; later horse ; water for most of work.
Hand and knee managed carriage and the winding on.
Motion — Intermittent with three separate movenients
(11, llh).
SPINNING TYPES
6i
1. Attenuating.
2. Attenuating and twisting. Twisting.
3. Winding.
Process — Attenuating first by drawing rollers and
second through stretching by receding car-
riage (12).
Fig 24. — Cross Section of Hand Mule
Upper right, drawing rollers attached to frame. Center, moving carriage with
spindles. Upper left, propelling hand wheel.
Twisting by spindles.
Winding by spindles and returning carriage.
1. Rove bobbins placed on creel, carriage in front
of rollers.
2. A short stretch of rove drawn from bobbins through
drawing rollers to' slightly faster receding
carriage with slowly rotating spindles (8, 8i,
9, 9d, g).
62 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
3. Rollers stop delivering rove and hold fast,
spindles rotate more rapidly while carriage
slackening pace continues to end of course.
4. Carriage backs a short distance to reheve strain
on yarn ; spindles add more twist.
5. Spindles stop; faller-wire drops carrying yarn from
spindle tip to winding position (10, lOe).
6. Yarn wound on rotating spindles as carriage
returns to first position.
Economic Gain
In production :
Spindles of Jenny transferred from standard to car-
riage.
Improved moving carriage.
A loss in speed from Water Frame, a gain over Jenny.
A loss in expense, mule required highly skilled manual
labor.
In product :
Finer, more elastic superior yarn.
More evenly drawn because of combined roller and
spindle draft.
More evenly twisted from stretch during twisting.
More gently spun, less strain on rove during attenu-
ating.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Baines, E. " Cotton manufacture," 197.
I Barker, A. F. "Textiles."
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei."
3 Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade," 54, 68.
SPINNING TYPES 63
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning," "Cotton manufacture,"
"Woolen and worsted."
I Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture," 21.
- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(Illustration.)
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 31 21.
('') Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 346.
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei," 76.
I Marsden, R-C) "Cotton spinning."
I Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning," 167.
1 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III.
2 Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning," 17.
- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.)
I Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture," I, 277.
3 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction.
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 262.
1 Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning."
2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 56 [picture legend].
2 Wilkinson, F. " Story of the cotton plant."
5 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
I Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials," 190.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 207. Mule frame.
Briiggemann, p. 40. Crompton's mule-jenny.
Guest, PL 12. The mule.
Hooper {^) (4), fig. 25. Crompton's mule. (Bolton Museum.)
James, p. 343, fig. 3, Crompton's spinning machine.
Lindner, p. 76. Handmule.
Magazines. See Magazine JUustration.
Montgomery, PI. III. The mule-jenny.
Murphy, III, p. 52. Crompton's mule.
56. Mule of 1820.
64 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Oppel, p. 228. The mule-jenny.
Simmonds, II, PL 6. The mule-jenny.
Ure, II, PL 6. The mule-jenny.
Vickerman, p. 211. Crompton's mule.
Walton, p. 56. The mule or the muslin wheel.
Wilkinson, p. 141. Crompton's spinning mule.
X
SELF-ACTING MULE
Distinctive Characteristics
First machine for spinning fine yarn without manual
help : the hand mule very much enlarged and perfected
to work entirely automatically.
Attenuating device : pairs of drawing rollers and spindles
on moving carriage.
Twisting device : row of Jenny spindles fitted with cop
bobbins.
Winding device : moving carriage and spindles so ad-
justed to their varying speeds as to work automatically.
Spinning intermittent.
Outline
Example : Roberts' mule.
Implement — Self-acting cotton mule.
1. machine with frame, headstock and moving
carriage.
2. frame with drawing rollers and rove creel.
3. moving carriage with row of Jenny spindles fitted
with cop bobbins and automatic faller and
counter-faller wires.
SPINNING TYPES
I. Period.
65
Fig. 25. — ^FouR Stages of Mule Spinning
4. headstock communicating motion to all parts, care-
fully adjusted to the many varied movements of
machine.
Power — Steam (13).
66 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Motion — -Intermittent, with three movements (ll, llh).
1 . Attenuating.
2. Attenuating and twisting. Twisting.
3. Winding,
Process — Drawing by rollers and stretching by moving
carriage (l2).
Twisting by spindles.
Winding by spindles, faller and counter-faller wires on
moving carriage.
1. Rove bobbins placed on creel, carriage in front
of rollers.
2. Rove delivered to first pair of rollers and drawn
as it passes between each succeeding pair,
when it is delivered to slowly revolving spindles
of the receding carriage which further lengthens
it by stretching (8, 8i, 9, 9g).
3. When carriage has covered some distance of path
the rollers cease delivering rove and shut
close ; spindles revolve more rapidly while
carriage moves to end of course.
4. Carriage stops a moment, spindles continue to add
twist.
5. Carriage backs off short distance to ease high ten-
sion caused by increasing twist.
6. Carriage stops, spindles reverse rotation to pay
off yarn wrapped about spindle point above
cop bobbin, when two guide wires for winding
on yarn assume proper positions.
7. Carriage returns to rollers, while spindles with
aid of the guide wires slowly wind yarn on
cop (10, lOe),
SPINNING TYPES 67
Economic Gain
In production :
Higher spindle speed.
Admirable concert of all parts of machine.
Increase of spindles per machine.
Greater length wound on each cop.
But —
More complicated.
Requires more power to drive.
Requires greater intelligence of tender.
In product :
Finest and most perfect machine-spun yarn.
Better wound yarn.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture." (Illustration.)
I Beaumont, R.(^) "Wool manufacture" (Wool mule), 63.
1 Beaumont, R.(^) "WooUen and worsted" (Wool mvde),
158. ■
- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." (Illustration.)
2 Clapham, J. M. "The woollen industries," 53.
2 Cyclopedia textile work, I. "Cotton spinning," 265.
2 Cyclopedia textile work, II. "Woolen and worsted spinning,"
233.
2 Dooley, W. H. "Textiles."
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Cotton manufacture," "Wool
manufacture."
- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(Illustration.)
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3 121.
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 19 14.
68 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
2 Huiiter, J. A. "Wool," 52.
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei," 76.
1 Marsden, R. (0 "Cotton spinning."
2 McLaren, W. S. B. "Spinning woollen and worsted."
I Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning."
I Morris and Wilkinson. "Elements of cotton spinning."
(Technical.)
I Mundorf, E. "Die Appretur der Wool- und Halbwoll-
waren."
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III.
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." (Technical.)
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning."
- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.)
3 Peake, R. J. "Cotton."
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
I Priestman, H. "Principles of woollen spinning."
I Radcliffe, W. J. "Manufacture of woollen and worsted yarns,"
259-
I Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." (Illustration.)
I Simmonds, P, L. "lire's cotton manufacture," II, 117.
1 Taggart, W. S. " Cotton spinning," III. (Technical.)
2 Thornley, T. "Cotton spinning," II, 1916 Ed. (Tech-
nical.)
I Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crops," 345.
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II, 145.
I Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning."
- Walton, P. "Story of textiles." (Illustration.)
- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.)
I Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
I Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials," 192.
SPINNING TYPES 69
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 207, fig. 3. Self-acting mule.
211. Mule spinning.
Barker, p. 105. Woolen mule.
109. Worsted mule.
Beaumont Q), p. 64. Mule spinning frame.
66. Section mule spinning frame.
Beaumont (2), p. 160. View self -actor mule.
163. End elevation, mule.
165. Self-actor mule.
166. Self-actor mule.
232. Section worsted self -actor mule.
Brooks, p. 112. First cotton mill in United States.
113. Modern mill, mule spinning.
Clapham, p. 54. Woollen mule.
Cyclopedia textile work.
I, p. 273. Mule room.
241. Self-acting mule.
256. Mule' head.
266-289. Mule spinning.
II, p. 234. Mule.
245. High speed mule.
235-262. Mule spinning.
Dooley, p. 137. Mule room.
Encyclopaedia Britannica.
fig. 9. Mule "Cotton manufacture."
13. Spinning room. " Cotton manufacture."
9. Woolen mule. "Wool manufacture."
Hooper (*) (*), fig. 26. Modern spinning mule.
Lindner, pp. 78, 79. Selfaktor.
80, 82, 83, 84, 85. Diagram Selfaktor.
Marsden, p. 240. Mule, side elevation.
McLaren, p. 230. The woolen mule.
Morris & Wilkinson, figs. 111-122. The spinning mvile.
70 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Mandorf, p. S- Feinspinnmaschine. (Selfaktor.)
Murphy, III, pp. 64-67. Self-actor mule.
Nasmith, p. 377. The mule.
Oppel, p. 228. Roberts' self-acting mule.
231. Mule-Spinnmaschine.
Peake, p. 59. Self-acting mule.
67. Mule-spinning room. Electric power.
Pictorial GaUery of Arts.
I, p. 97. Self-acting mule.
104. Wool mule.
Priestman, figs. 83-1 11. The mule.
Radcliffe, figs. 91, 92. Mule spinning.
Rohn, pp. 55-59. Mule spinning.
Simmonds, II, fig. 77. Self-actor mule.
80. Cross section of spinning parts of self-actor
mule.
PI. 5. Self-acting mule.
Taggart, III, figs. 9-140. Modern mule.
Thornley, II, p. 220. Mule.
Ure, II, fig. 77. Self -actor mule.
80. Self -actor mule — Cross section of working
parts.
PL 5. Fine spinning mule.
Vickerman, figs. 59-66. Self-actor mule.
Walton, p. 208. A modern mule spinning-room.
Watson, K., p. 66. Mule spinning frame.
Wilkinson, F., pp. 148, 150, 154, 159. Self-acting mule.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 39. Mule spinning.
40. Detail of mule.
Zipser, figs. 113-118. Mule (cotton).
238. Mule frame (wool).
241-244. Four stages on mule frame.
270. Worsted mule.
SPINNING TYPES
XI
FLYER, CAP AND RING SPINNING FRAMES
71
Fig. 26. — Cross Section, Flax Spinning Frame
The flax on its way to the drawing rollers is passed through a tray of water.
On the left the twisting is by cap spindle, on the right by flyer spindle.
Distinctive Characteristics
Perfected mechanical spinning frame : a spinning
machine modeled after the Water frame, improved
and simplified in its moving parts and run by
power.
Attenuating device : series of pairs of drawing rollers.
72
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Twisting device : the automatic
flyer, cap or ring spindle.
Winding device : the automatic
winding spindle.
Continuous spinning.
Outline
Examples : Flyer spinning frame ;
Cap spinning frame ; Ring spin-
ning frame.
Implements — Continuous spin-
ning frames of the above type.
1. Frame with rove creel, draw
rollers, spindles, driving
mechanism.
2. Creel with rove bobbins.
3. Pairs of drawing rollers.
4. Row of spindles with tube
bobbins.
a. flyer spindle, loose run-
ning bobbin, lifter plate.
*>., b. non-revolving cap spindle,
revolving bobbin, lifter
rail.
c. ring spindle with attached
bobbin, thread rail with
guide wire, movable
ring plate and ring with
_ „ ^ hook traveler.
Fig. 27. — Flyer Spindle
Drawing rollers which draft (above). Spindle and flyer revolved by whorl
below (white) twist and guide yarn. Loose tubular bobbin (black) resting
on lifter plate (gray) winds on.
6
SPINNING TYPES
73
Fig. 28. — Ring Spindle
Bobbin (black) firmly at-
tached to spindle (white)
which twists. Lifter ring
plate (gray) with travel-
ing hook; drag of yarn
through hook winds on.
Fig. 29.-
F. Cone-shaped cap attached to stationary spin-
dle; the drag of yarn on cap-edge winds on.
/. Tubular bobbin revolving on spindle as axis
is turned by hand about the whorl H ; the
bobbin twists.
74 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Power — Water wheel, later steam (13).
Motion — Continuous (Hi).
I. drawing, twisting, winding.
Process — Drawing by rollers (12).
Twisting by flyer, ring or cap spindle.
Winding by same.
1. Rove bobbins on creel pegs, rove passed to rollers.
2. Rove drawn between drawing rollers (8, 8h).
3. Rove twisted between last rollers and spindle
(9, 9d).
4. Yarn wound on bobbin (lO, lOi).
a. flyer revolving winds yarn in cop form on
a dragging behind bobbin, as bobbin is
raised and lowered by lifter plate.
b. spindle and cap stationary and bobbin re-
volving builds cop as bobbin is lifted on rail.
c. spindle and bobbin revolving in unison and
traveler with drag builds cop.
5. Full bobbins doffed, frame filled with fresh empty
bobbins.
Economic Gain
In production and economy :
Higher spindle speed.
Continuous spindle spinning.
Mounting more spindles on floor space.
Simplicity of machine requiring less repairs.
Employment of less skilled labor.
Less expensive than Mule.
Less labor.
SPINNING TYPES 75
In product :
Coarse yarns.
Superior strength, wiry smoothness.
Not so perfect or fine as Mule yarn.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Baines, E. "History of cotton manufacture."
3 Barker, A. F. "Textiles."
1 Beaumont, R-O) "Wool manufacture."
2 Beaumont, R.(^) "Woollen and worsted."
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei."
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illus-
tration.)
I Carter, H. R.C) "Modern flax, hemp and jute spinning."
5 Carter, H. R.(^) "The spinning and twisting of long vegetable
fibers."
I Clapham, J. H. "The woolen and worsted industries," 49.
4 Cyclopedia textile work, I. "Cotton spinning." (Technical.)
4 Cyclopedia textile work, II. " Woolen and worsted spinning."
(Technical.)
5 Dooley, W. H. "Textfles."
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Cotton manufacture," "Woolen
and worsted spinning."
5 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 31 21.
{*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
3 Hunter, J. A. "Wool."
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 577.
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei."
I Marsden, R.(0 "Cotton spinning."
1 McLaren, W. S. "Wool spinning."
2 Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning," 155.
I Morris and Wilkinson. "Elements of cotton spinning."
(Technical.)
76 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I Mundorf, E. "Die Appretur der Woll- und Halbwollwaren."
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III.
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." (Technical.)
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning."
4 Peake, R. J. "Cotton."
- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
I Radcliffe, J. W. "Manufacture of wooUen and worsted yarn."
I Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei."
I Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture," II, 95.
1 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction, III.
(Technical.)
2 Thornley, T. "Cotton spinning," II (1916 Edition). (Tech-
nical.)
4 Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crop," 346.
1 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II, 120.
-Walton, P. "Story of textiles." (Illustration.)
- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.)
2 Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant."
3 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
2 Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 207. Throstle frame.
Barker, p. 100. Ring spinning.
102. Cap spinning.
Beaumont Q), p. 91. Flyer spinning.
94. Cap spinning.
94. Ring spinning.
172, 173. Woollen spinning frame.
Beaumont, 228. Flyer spinning frame.
229. Cap spinning frame.
231. Ring spinning frame.
Briiggemann, pp. 100, 102. Flachsfeinspinnmaschine.
Butterworth, p. 181, figs. 7-9. Throstle frame.
182, figs. 1-4. Cap, Ring and Fly frames.
118.
119.
120.
124.
Carter (2)
,P
• 154-
166.
178.
Clapham,
P-
50-
52.
56.
SPINNING TYPES 77
Carter Q), pp. 107, 108. Dry spinning flyer frame,
no. Dry spinning ring frame,
log, 112, 113. Section dry spinning flyer frame.
Hot water spinning frame.
Wet spinning frame.
Section wet spinning ring frame.
Section wet spinning flyer frame.
Dry spinning frame.
Section wet spinning frame.
Part of ramie wet spinning frame.
Flyer spinning frames.
Cap spinning frames.
Twisting frame for fancy yarns with ring
spindles.
Cyclopedia textile work.
I, p. 208. Spinning frame.
211. Ring spinning frame.
227. Ring frame.
230-253. Ring spinning.
II, p. 213. Fly spinning frame.
214. Method of drafting, twisting and winding.
225. Cap spinning frame.
226, 227. Bobbins for filling and warp.
229. Ring spinning frame.
230. Spindle of ring frame.
Dooley, p. 45. Worsted spinning.
135. Spinning room, cotton department.
Encyclopaedia Britannica,
"Cotton manufacture," fig. 7. Flyer spindle.
8. Ring spindle.
"Wool manufacture," fig. 15. Flyer spindle.
17. Cap spindle.
19. Ring spindle.
Hooper (^) (f), fig. 27. Ring-spinning machine.
James, PI. II. Crompton's spinning machine.
78 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Lindner, p. 87. Fly-spinning machine.
88, 90, 91. Ring-spinning machine.
75, 96, 97. Ring-spindles.
Marsden Q), p. 301. Ring frame for warp yarns,
303. Section of ring frame.
306. Ring spindle.
312. Ring frame for spinning weft.
McLaren, p. 151. Flyer spinning frame.
161. Cap spinning frame.
165, 168, 170. Ring spinning.
Morris and Wilkinson.
figs. 123-129. Ring frame, or "throstle."
Mundorf, p. 7. Feinspinnmaschine. (Ring spinner.)
Murphy, III, pp. 68, 69, 70. Throstle spinning frame.
- 71. Cap spinning frame.
79. Various forms of spindles.
Nasmith, pp. 490, 491. Diagram ring spinning machine.
Peake, p. 63. Ring spinning frame.
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, London.
I, p. 100. Silk spinning machine (flyer machine).
Radcliffe, fig. 85. Flyer spinning.
86. Cap spinning.
87. Ring spinning.
Flyer spinning frame.
Cap spinning frame.
90. Ring spinning frame.
Rohn, pp. 60, 123. Ring spinning.
143, 144, IS7, 159- Fly spinning.
Simmonds, II, fig. 67. Throstle.
68. Throstle, spinning parts.
Taggart, III, figs. 145-178. Ring spinning.
Ure, II, fig. 67. Throstle.
68. Throstle, spinning parts.
Walton, p. 226. Modern ring spinning mill.
Watson, p. 65, Fly spinning frame.
SPINNING TYPES 79
Watson, p. 67. Modern ring spinning frame.
Wilkinson, p. 161. Ring spinning frame.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 41. Flyer.
41. Cap of spinning frame.
42. Ring of spinning frame.
Zipser, fig. 107. Double fly frame for cotton.
108. Double ring frame for cotton.
148. Flax dry spinning frame.
149. Wet spinning frame for flax.
245. Double ring spinning frame for wool.
271. Single worsted fly frame.
272. Single worsted ring frame.
CLOTH MAKING
15 Weaving is a very old art that for centuries has
supplied mankind with clothing, and comfort in
Origin of his home surroundings. Previous to
Weaving man's attempt to weave, the spiders, cat-
erpillars and birds skillfully constructed nests for
themselves of a rough sort of interlacing, and so
were the first weavers. Whether or not primitive
man got his idea from these crude interlacings
has not come down to us. He might as easily
have obtained it from plant structure in peculiar
tropical leaf and stem forms, such as the lace tree
of South America. Some think he copied it from
the interweaving of cut rushes which had been
tramped over on the dirt floors of the rude huts ;
others believe he imitated the interlacing of date
palm leaflets when crossed and tangled by the wind.
In tropical countries to-day peoples of lower culture
roof and side their crude shelters with these huge
leaves, sometimes plaiting the leaflets, at other
times letting them hang loose. In this last case
they soon become so entangled as to suggest a sur-
face little removed from rough matting. Whence
the weaving idea came would be interesting to
know, although were this possible quite probably
80
CLOTH MAKING 8l
we should find that in different regions it had de-
veloped from diverse sources.
Its source, however, is immaterial. The impor-
tant thing is that primitive man did begin to inter-
weave the coarse materials close at hand .
Activity
m his environment, such as pliable twigs, in
wide grasses and long palm leaflets. "^®"*^°'^
Of these weavings we have no record, for in the
earliest accounts and among the most ancient
remains the art appears in an advanced stage, thus
furnishing no clew as to early method or origin.
Its beginnings are lost in remote ages, for even in
neolithic times there were skilled weavers. Be-
tween the first rude interlacing and modern machine
weaving there is a vast stretch in time, and an ex-
penditure of much energetic effort for attainment,
since, as has been said, "Civilization's pathway
is strewn with evidences of labor to compass the
mastery of the industry." This struggle was not
continuous, for as in yarn making, there are periods
of great activity interspersed with long seasons
of rest, since "weaving is an art and the motions
of the art spirit are not along plodding levels of
material things, but by leaps and flights." In the
series of weaving types that follow only the most im-
portant developments are presented, with the accent
upon the gain accomplished through each type
as man responded to economic pressure with new
devices to meet new situations. With his progress
from savagery to civilization his needs multiplied
82 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
with advance in culture, so that now weaving no
longer ministers only to the necessities, but also
to the luxuries.
The present-day products of the loom are woven
almost exclusively by the yard and handled in trade
as piece goods, in yards of carpet, broadcloth, or
muslin. Rugs and tapestries are an exception to
this, but most weavings before coming into actual
use must be cut and shaped, fitted and stitched, ere
they are of service to mankind. Quite the reverse
of this is the woven product of peoples of lower
culture, most of whom weave their garments and
furnishings entire, ready for wear and use without
cutting, fitting, or stitching. Among these com-
plete weavings are the poncho, the serape and the
blanket of the American Indian.
16 These loom weavings are to be distinguished from
basketry plaiting and basketry weaving, which do
not require a loom during their con-
Weaves, struction. Plaiting is begun by placing
Loom |-^Q Qj. three loose rushes or other long
Weaves ^ _ °
strands on the ground in parallel position
and crossing them by others with an interlacing,
and then adding more strands to the left, the right,
the near and the far sides. This possible progression
in four directions distinguishes plaiting from
weaving, which progresses in one direction only
by the introduction of a weft strand which crosses
a parallel series of warp strands. In plaiting there
is no distinct warp or weft, as the strands plait in
CLOTH MAKING 83
four directions. It belongs to a large group of
basketry technics which includes basketry weaving,
but in none is an implement necessary to hold the
strands during plaiting or weaving. The subject
here is loom weaving of softer materials, which
because of their flexibility require a frame, or
loom, to secure the parallel warp strands during
the weaving. In the crudest instances the materials
may not be of spun or twisted yarns, as in the
Ulmus-bark weavings of the Ainu and the Cedar-
bark splint mattings of the American Indian of
the Northwest.
17 Barlow defines weaving as "an art by which
threads of any substance are crossed and interlaced
so as to be arranged into a perfectly weaving
expanded form." This well describes I'efined
the finished product, but does not give an idea of
the process, and besides, this definition might
equally well apply to plaiting. A true definition
will picture the row of parallel warp strands with
the uniting weft strand moving back and forth
across the warp. Such a definition might read :
Weaving is a process which unites a series of parallel
strands, or warps, by a crossing strand, or weft,
which may interlace, wrap, or twine as it moves
back and forth across the warp strands to form an
expanded surface.
18 Murphy aptly likens the warp to the " bone and
muscle of the body " and the weft to " flesh and
skin." To form this warp and weft structure
84 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
the warp strands, or foundation, must be arranged
on the loom in a parallel series, a procedure termed
Weaving loom mounting; while the weft strand,
Processes q^ filling, must be passed through the
parallel warp strands to unite them, a procedure
termed wefting. Each of these activities includes
three processes. For loom mounting, the warp
strands must be measured off into equal lengths
and arranged in a parallel series, a process called
warping. The strands must be secured to the
beam or beams, the process of beaming. The weft
strand when uniting the warp strands passes over
and under certain warp strands, but in its second
crossing it passes over and under the strands which
before it went under and over. This would be a
tedious process were it not for a mechanical device
which raises and lowers the alternate warp strands
across the entire width of the loom, thus making
sheds for the passage of the weft. These sheds
were prepared during the warping, making ready
the warp strands to be connected with the shedding
■ device, a process termed heddling; while the process
giving motion to the heddles for opening the sheds
is shedding. The movement of the weft through
the shed is picking ; and the beating close the
weft strands is battening. In addition to these
is a process termed letting-of and taking-on,
which cares for the web as fast as it is woven,
letting off unwound warp and taking on the
woven web.
CLOTH MAKING 85
Thus we j&nd that weaving includes more processes
than spinning, since the manufacture of cloth means
the handling of two sets of threads, the warp and
the weft. This includes warp processes for measur-
ing off the warp, for laying it and for preparing the
shedding ; beside weft processes for opening the
sheds, throwing the weft and beating it up. All of
these processes require specific devices either for
warp manipulation or for weft manipulation. At
first very simple implements were employed, but
as time moved on they became more perfect and
better fitted to the particular task in hand. To
trace these important weaving improvements and
developments is the pleasant undertaking of the
next few pages.
Warp Arrangement
19 Securing the warp strands in an extended and
parallel position takes precedence over all other
weaving considerations, since holding -warp
the warp in uniform arrangement is not stretching
only the first step in order but the most important
one. No interlacing of threads can take place
until the warp strands are in position. Many
writers in classifying the different kinds of weaving
describe the simplest as that with stretched warp,
like Two-beam loom weaving. Or, if they mention
some of the simpler types, they omit discussing this
essential and earlier phase of textile development:
v/arp arranging and stretching. The five earliest
86 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
types considered here are definitely concerned with
the solving of this problem, the essential basis of
all weaving, that of stretched warp strands held
in parallel order and with equal tension.
19a On the One-beam loom the warp strands hang
loosely from the one beam, secured only at their upper
ends ; and even this crude staying keeps them from
19b freely slipping about. In this particular, Weighted
warp weaving varies slightly from the last type,
since again the suspended warp strands
Devices ^ i i •
for Warp are attached to the one beam at their
stretching ^ppgj- ends. Here, however, a new de-
vice is introduced, a weight fastened to the lower
warp ends to hold the strands taut. This is a de-
cided step toward stretched warp, but there is still
19c much to strive for. The Two-bar loom presents an
important advance, since here the warp is wrapped
over two cylindrical cross-bars, or something which
takes their place. The cross-bars are not true
beams but serve merely as forms to keep the warp
in a stretched position. In the Salish Indian loom
of this type the warp does not pass over and over
the bars, but over and back, turning upon a slender
rod or a stretched cord. This rod or cord in reality
is the true warp beam, making this a unique one-
19d beam loom. The Frameless two-bar loom uses the
same non-revolving bars for stretching the warp, but
they are free, one being fastened to a distant object
and the other to the weaver's belt. When this narrow
fabric or belt loom is in use, the horizontal warp is
CLOTH MAKING 87
held taut by the position of the weaver. When it
it is not in use it is rolled up and stowed away for
future weaving.
19e The problem of perfectly stretched warp is
solved on the Two-beam loom, where there are
present two beams, a warp and a cloth
beam. Between these the warp strands stretched
are stretched. To primitive peoples is ^^
due the credit of perfecting this most important
feature in weaving. No better method of securing
the warp in a parallel and taut condition has been
evolved than their method of stretching it between
two beams. This arrangement is still employed
on the modern loom of to-day.
20 Turning to another warp problem, that of lengthen-
ing it for a longer web, we note that, although warp
stretching became perfected with the ^eb
Two-beam loom, warp lengthening for a Lengthening
weaving which exceeded the length of the loom was
not fully accomplished before the Perfected hand
20a loom. The web from the One-beam loorri is most ele-
mental in length, for it is limited to the height of the
loom. It is true that mattings of coarse flat mate-
rials may be twice the loom height, since the warp
strands are suspended over the beam at their
middle point. They hang to the ground on both
sides and each is woven separately. All other
weavings can be but once the loom height, since
the warp is suspended below the beam and woven in
20b one. The ancient Weighted warp loom shows an
88 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
. advance in that its beam revolves, apparently to
permit a longer fabric. Still as there is nothing
which indicates a means for extending the lower
warp ends, we must conclude that the function of
the revolving beam was to bring the work within
easy reach of the weaver rather than for lengthening.
20c Webs from the Two-bar loom always measure
twice the loom height, since the warp encircles
the two bars, producing a weaving twice the dis-
tance between them.
21 Efforts to lengthen the web appear in different
types. The One-beam loom and Weighted warp
loom in general produce a web the height
for Web of the loom ; the Two-bar loom produces
Lengthening ^^^ ^^j^^ ^^^^ height. Thus length in
these simpler types is restricted by the size of the
loom. Attempts to overcome this restriction took
two directions : that of extending the warp to a
distant point beyond the loom ; and that of winding
21a a longer warp on a revolving beam. In the two
frameless looms, the Frameless two-bar loom with
its far and near bars and the One-shaft loom with
its bunched warp ends and near beam, the parts
are free and so admit a variety of lengths. This
is possible because the far bar of the first loom and
the bunched ends of the second are . attached to
distant posts, and the near bar of the first and
near beam of the second are fastened to the belts
of the weaver. So warp length in each case is
determined by the weaver's position, although in
CLOTH MAKING 89
the first it is twice the length of the distance
between the far post and the weaver.
21b These last two examples are quite similar to
looms extending the warp beyond the frame, as in
the Two-shaft treadle loom. In this Extending
method, the extension is usually run out ^^^^
in the direction of the warp end, or away from the
weaver. But in a few localities in Africa the exten-
sion moves in the direction both of the warp end and
the cloth end. Here the weaver sits at the side
of the loom, since the lack of a revolving cloth
beam prevents the ordinary position of the weaver.
No locality in the world shows a greater diversity
in mode of warp extension than India. Most
outdoor looms of that country have very long warp,
extending to a distant post, with an attached rope
which passes about the post and back to the side
of the weaver. This allows him to release more
warp as needed without quitting his position at the
loom. Indoor cloth making presents a more serious
problem, especially if the weaving room is small, for
then the warp must be looped up to the ceiling.
If the weaving room is large the warp is extended
as on outdoor looms.
21c The second manner of lengthening the warp,
that of winding the longer strands on a revolving
warp beam, is an ancient method, but still Revolving
used to-day. It has never been improved Warp Beam
on, as shown in the last four weaving types, for it
furnishes a perfectly stretched warp, with a length
90 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
between beams only sufficient to get the needed
warp movement for heddles and batten. Thus it
allows a very compact loom and one requiring little
floor space. Strange as it may appear, it is to
ancient Egypt that we must go for the first example
of this modern device. If we can correctly judge
from ancient wall paintings, it is here that we have
the earliest record of the revolving warp beam. In
the New Kingdom, fifteen hundred years before
Christ, this people had evolved for their simple
Two-beam loom the method of procuring a longer
web by the use of the revolving warp beam.
22 With both methods of warp lengthening, the
extending and the coiling on a revolving warp beam,
Revolving Came the need of a revolving cloth beam
Cloth Beam ^q receive the finished web as fresh warp
was either drawn in from the distant post or unrolled
from the warp beam. Previous to the Two-beam
loom, there were no distinct warp and cloth beams.
In this type the cloth beam appears in two stages
22a of development. First, the non-revolving beam
is found on vertical looms for short webs and on
the simplest horizontal looms pegged to the ground,
as in the Egyptian mat loom. Here for wefting,
after the first short section, the weaver sits upon the
22b finished web. The second stage, the revolving cloth
beam, occurs in its simplest form with the non-
revolving warp beam. It is found on the horizontal
loom pegged to the ground when it requires two
weavers, one on each side ; and on vertical looms
CLOTH MAKING 91
requiring but one weaver, who sits in front. An in-
teresting case of invention in this particular appears
on the Navajo loom. Its cloth beam is non-re-
volving. Feeling the need of some means to care
for the finished web as sections of weaving are
completed, the weavers lower fresh warp, and then
fold the portion of completed web and stitch it to
22c the non-revolving beam. The free cloth beam of
the One-shaft treadle loom is attached to the
weaver's belt in such a manner that it may be
revolved to take on freshly woven web, but in the
One-shaft loom the beam is non-revolving, so that
the belt web is pulled over the beam when finished
and secured by an iron pin.
22d In the seventh, ninth, tenth and eleventh types
of weaving both beams revolve, but only at inter-
vals. When the cloth and the warp Automatic
are to be freshly adjusted the weaver Beams
must stop wefting, and wind on the woven cloth
and unwind new warp strands. On the Power
22e loom this is changed ; the two motions become
continuous and automatic. The cloth beam
" takes-on " the woven web and the warp beam
" lets-off " fresh warp without the assistance of
the weaver and without his stopping the wefting.
Thus with the continuously revolving automatic
cloth and warp beams web lengthening was brought
to completion.
23 Ancient Egyptian weaving displays an interesting
diversity in warp lengthening. As noted, the mat
92 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
weaving of this people admits a warp only the loom
length, as both beams are non-revolving. The old
linen loom of the Middle Kingdom de-
Egyptian .
Web picted on the tomb wall at Beni Hassan,
eng ening ^^^ repeatedly been described and cop-
ied, but frequently both copy and description are
technically wrong. Latest researches have cleared
up a number of facts concerning it, showing
clearly that it is a horizontal loom pegged to the
ground and supplied with a revolving cloth beam.
Quite possibly it has a non-revolving warp beam and
if so an extended warp. But this last is not certain,
since the one illustration on the tomb at Beni Hassan
is all that remains to judge by. The crude outlines
suggest that the warp beam might have revolved,
otherwise one set of the beam pegs would have had
to be taken up and reset each time a short section
of web was completed. This practice may have
been resorted to, but it seems probable that these
inventive weavers had thus early the revolving
warp beam. The New Kingdom brought the
vertical loom with improved warp arrangement
on two revolving beams. Leaving ancient times,
we find the Egyptian factory loom of the Middle
Age shows an extended warp, such as is used in
India. Here, however, it is not managed in the
crude manner found in many parts of India, but
the warp is perfectly stretched from a beam at-
tached high on the side wall, by two long ropes
instead of one.
cloth making 93
Wefting — Shedding
24 As the threads of a fabric do not all run in one
direction, provision must be made for the second
series, or the crossing weft- threads.
, r • 11 -1 Shedding
Simplest weftmg, as has been said, con-
sists of the slow and tedious process of entering
the weft under and over single warp strands. It
was necessary to find a more rapid method and one
which mechanically opened the two series of warp
strands for the intersecting weft. This is shedding,
a process second in importance only to warp stretch-
ing. From the earliest types there was a demand
for such a process, although it did not become
perfected for plain weaving before the Two-shaft
treadle loom and for pattern weaving until the
Jacquard loom. In early types a wish for greater
speed and ease in manufacture forced the develop-
ment of the process, but soon pattern making and
later a desire for elaborate design necessitated even
more perfect shedding contrivances. It is the
manipulation of the lengthwise warp strands, for
an easy passage of the crossing weft strand, which
is the problem in shedding. Inserting the weft
requires an entirely different kind of handling from
that of warp stretching ; it demands the greatest
inventive genius as well as mechanical nicety, since
the weft not only crosses the warp, but interlaces
with it while doing so.
25 As we have said, the simplest weaving, where
each individual warp strand must be lifted and
94 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
lowered as the weft passes under and over, was
abandoned by many early weavers because it re-
quired a separate movement for each
Shedding warp strand. If two hundred warp
strands are to be woven together it re-
quires two hundred movements to carry the weft
25a across once, and one thousand movements to cross
five times. Nevertheless, slow and fatiguing as is this
first crude manner of laboriously lifting individual
warp strands, it is still practiced by the American
Indian of the Northwest. With supreme patience
these Indian weavers, without a shedding device,
fabricate blankets of most complicated design and
beautiful texture.
26 Many primitive peoples realized that for greater
speed and ease in wefting a device was needed for
simultaneously separating the two series
Shed-rod ^ , J t^ fc>
of alternate warp strands to form an
opening, or shed, through which the weft might
pass with one movement. But such an opening
was impossible with warp arranged as on the One-
beam loom. Stretched strands or those approach-
ing it were necessary, and these came with the
26a Weighted warp loom. The first step toward auto-
matic warp shedding was probably the introduction
of a flat sword-like rod under and over alternate
strands, and then leaving it in place while the flexi-
ble weft was passed through the shed thus made.
The rod was then removed and again entered under
and over the opposite set of alternate strands, so
CLOTH MAKING 95
preparing a shed for a second line of weft. Without
doubt, then came the thought of a permanent shed-
rod for the first shed, although only a temporary one
was possible for the second shed. Still even this
arrangement saved half the work. Slow as is
shedding by means of the shed-rod it persists among
a few peoples of lower culture, some of whom insert
a large number of slender rods to mark their
elaborate pattern. Early weavers noted that in
shedding the warp strands cross between the two
sheds and that the crossing was necessary. Hence
they began marking the warp crossing, or lease as
it is termed, by two lease-rods, whose forerunners
in all probability were the shed-rods above described.
26b The difficult thing at this stage in shedding
development was to find a device for raising the
second series of warp strands, since only
. ^, ' ^ Shed-rod
the first series was satisfactorily managed and Rod-
by the permanent shed-rod. Finally it ® ®
was discovered that a flexible rod-cord-heddle, for
convenience termed the rod-heddle, would success-
fully open the second shed, and when placed in
front of the shed-rod would not interfere with the
opening of the first shed, because of the looseness
of its cord. This was a great advance over the
exclusive use of the shed-rod, as it opened both
sheds with the borrowed shed-rod and the newly
devised rod-heddle. The invention of this method
belongs to peoples of lower culture and was their
dominant method of shedding. Although slow, it
96 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
was rapid enough for them, and in fact it was as
far as aboriginal peoples developed the shedding
process. Since it was a form incapable of develop-
ing beyond hand movement, the rod-heddle never
carried over into modern weaving. Still the ancient
Egyptians more than a thousand years before Christ
employed this simple shedding device for manu-
facturing their famous linens and quite likely the
Lake-dwellers of the Stone Age used a similar
device.
26c The One-shaft loom introduces another style of
heddle, a free shaft worked by hand, and employed
almost exclusively for making belts and
hed^die narrow fabrics. It combines in the one
implement the work of the shed-rod and
rod-heddle. In weaving a web of two hundred
warps the single shaft-heddle separates the one
hundred warp strands that the weft is to pass under
from the one hundred that it is to pass over, so that
the line of weft can cross the loom with one move-
ment; then it again divides the warp strands so
that the second line of weft can pass over and under
the opposite strands. For this purpose the heddle
is constructed of a single board cut by narrow
parallel slits with intervening slats, each pierced
at its center by an eyelet or hole. Likewise it
may be made of a row of slender splints bound at
their ends to two long horizontal bars and each
splint pierced by a center hole as were the previously
mentioned slats. These slits and eyelets furnish the
CLOTH MAKING 97
working parts of the heddle, since one series of
alternate warp strands is entered into the row of
eyelets and the second series into the row of slits,
which allow this last series free movement up and
down the vertical openings. When the shaft is
raised, the first series of strands are held by the
eyelets, while the freely moving second series pass
to the lower ends of the slits, making a shed below
the eyelet-held series. When the shaft is lowered,
the freely moving series slide to the upper ends of
the slits, making a shed above the eyelet-held series.
Thus by this means the weft may pass quickly
back and forth through first one shed and then
the other.
26d The one shaft-heddle, although efficient for
shedding the warp of narrow fabrics, was not suit-
able for wider ones because of greater ^^ ^ _,
° Shed-rod
difficulty from tangled strands. Espe- and Shaft-
cially troublesome is the warp when
extending beyond the loom, and not wound on the
revolving beam. Again the use of excessively
fine threads for silks and muslins requires a more
perfect shedding device. A separate contrivance
for each shed and the two working independently
was found necessary ; a method which has continued
in all later shedding. The One-shaft treadle loom
employs a separate device for each shed and also two
kinds of devices. It reverts in part to the old method
with shed-rod and rod-heddle, but adopts instead
of the rod-heddle a more efficient shaft-heddle,
98 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
giving a new combination of shed-rod and shaft-
heddle. This is an old and almost extinct type
found in a very limited area of China, Korea and
Japan. Its most important innovation is the ,
simplest form of foot power for working the shedding
device. Here only one shed is opened by this
means. A treadle ring for the toe, a treadle board,
or a swinging slat lifts and lowers the shaft-heddle,
while the shed-rod arranges the other shed. Ceylon
uses a very simple loom of this type for making
Dunbara mats, although here the shaft-heddle is
worked by hand. There is no adjustment of the
two beams, so the weaver is obliged to squat upon
the woven portion. One shed is opened by the
shed-rod and the second by a rude heddle attached
by a cord to a tripod that can be shifted along from
time to time as the weaving progresses. The hemp
strips of weft are entered with a long lath which has
an eye at one end, and are left with loose ends at
either side. Another more primitive loom from
the Bedouin desert, Hke the last is furnished with
side supports upon which to rest the two ends
of a rod which supports either the shaft-heddle or
the rod-heddle, quite probably the last. (See
Roth 0) p. 13.)
26e To ancient weavers, and especially to those of the
East, must be given the credit of bringing to comple-
Two Shaft- tion the shedding process, by developing,
heddies jf ^ot by inventing, the shaft-heddle.
The two factors responsible for perfecting shedding
CLOTH MAKING 99
are no doubt the desire for greater speed to increase
output and for a more elaborate pattern which
required very fine yarn. Ancient and medieval
history are rich in allusions to the wonderful
fabrics of silk, satin and velvet which came from
Asiatic looms at this time. Elaborate weaving
was possible only with heddle-shafts, frequently
termed shedding-harness, or with the closely related
heddle-cords of the Draw loom and the Jacquard.
The Two-shaft treadle loom appears to have
evolved in India and from there spread in all
directions. It is found as far as West Africa,
although there it is so crude as to suggest that it
may be of native origin. Each heddle-shaft is
constructed of two wooden laths joined by threads,
which are passed from one to the other and looped
at the center to form an eyelet through which the
warp threads are run. The even threads pass
through one heddle and the uneven threads through
the other. These heddles are raised successively for
shedding. When the first is raised it carries up
alternate warp threads, thus opening one shed, and
when the second is raised the second series of
alternate threads are lifted, and the other shed
opened. The employment of two shaft-heddles
in place of the shed-rod and one shaft-heddle,
furnishes a similar device for each shed. It is
the most direct method of shedding, for with equal
speed and certainty both sheds are opened, with the
additional advantage that both are operated by
lOO YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
foot power. In the Perfected hand loom this method
of shedding persisted throughout Europe during
medieval and modern times until the Industrial
Revolution. Even now it can be found in out-of-
the-way places, used by the peasants.
26f Shedding for elaborate pattern making was first
achieved on the Draw loom by a double harness
Pattern which provided two kinds of shedding
Shedding devices, a front harness for the shaft-
heddles worked by treadles; and a back harness of
free heddle loops, cords, or wires termed leashes,
worked by a draw-boy. The warp strands were
first threaded through the shaft-heddles, the eyes
of which were made long, thus permitting freedom
for the back harness to simultaneously or alter-
nately affect the shed with the front harness. Then
the same warp strands were passed on through the
eyes of the free leashes, that these by their action
might produce the pattern detail, as the front
harness was producing the pattern in large. Later
26g the Draw loom was superseded by the Jacquard
loom., which simplified pattern making by means
of a mechanism placed on top of the loom, worked
by pattern cards, needles and hooks.
Wefting — Picking
27 Although picking is a wefting process not so
difhcult to master as shedding, it has had its prob-
lems. Weft was first inserted in short lengths that
passed but once, or once and return, across the
CLOTH MAKING lOl
warp in an under and over movement, or one that
twined, or wrapped about the strands. Examples
of these three methods of weftinsr short
No Shuttle
strands are shown in cleverly man-
27a aged ways on the One-beam loom. With the use
of softer materials, especially spun yarns, some
people wove with a longer weft wound into a
small ball. The need of lengthening the weft
strand presented one of the earliest picking prob-
lems, since the short strands woven once across,
or once and back, left a loose edge which easily
unraveled. A continuous weft that could be
carried across again and again provided two strong
closed edges, since these journeyings of the weft
to and fro formed a " self edge " or selvage as it is
termed. The Navajo weavers practice the method
of making the weft into a small roll which they
insert through the warp strands with their fingers.
27b The ancient Egyptians of the Middle Kingdom
on the only cloth loom we know, employed short
weft lengths that extended across the Needle-
warp but once and return, and they prob- Shuttle
ably inserted these strands by hand. Egyptians
of the New Kingdom, however, had advanced
sufhciently in the weaving art to employ a simple
weft device, a long stick which measured the
width of the loom and had a hook at one end. This
device pulls the weft through the warp strands and
also beats up the weft, thus serving the double
function of shuttle and batten. There seems great
I02 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
likelihood that this crude picking device evolved
from the sword-shaped wooden batten, but there is
no evidence. It is the simplest needle-shuttle,
whose more perfect forms show a pierced eye, or a
well-shaped slot, and in different areas vary from a
long slender needle to a short broad one.
27c The simplest form of picking device which
effectually meets the problem of a lengthened weft
stick- is the stick-shuttle. This truthfully
shuttle merits the name of shuttle, or weft
carrier, for it is loaded with many yards of weft
wound endwise, crosswise, or diagonally. In fur-
nishing a continuous weft the stick-shuttle is a
long step in advance of the needle-shuttle. The
latter can carry but a limited length and because
free and extended it is liable to tangle. The stick-
shuttle with its cargo of weft can traverse again
and again through the sheds and form a strong
selvage. In fact, this shuttle made its appearance
with warp shedding, since it is not adaptable to
wefting without a shed in which to pass. It varies
in carrying capacity in different localities, and
takes on numerous shapes which are usually more
slender and shorter than the needle-shuttle.
27d After a continuous weft thread had been attained,
a second difficulty needed solving, that of a more
Bobbin- smoothly moving weft carrier as it
shuttle traversed the warp shed. The stick-
shuttle wriggled more or less because of its awk-
ward shape and from the unwinding weft, likewise
CLOTH MAKING 103
it caught in the warp strands and the load of yarn
impeded its progress. Finally some one devised a
sheath, or case, in which" to inclose a slender re-
volving quill wound with weft. The case took the
shape of a boat and within revolved the bobbin
of weft. The device probably developed from the
stick-shuttle with a transverse winding, since the
ancient Greek shuttle of Penelope needs only a
case to make it a bobbin-shuttle. The Malay
Islanders use a transitional type. Their shuttle
consists of a slender rod, wound spool manner
with weft, and covered with a removable slender
case.
27e The weaver threw the bobbin-shuttle from one
hand to the other, a process very slow and employing
both hands. However, this method
, . ^ , . Fly-shuttle
contmued m use for a very long time.
The mechanical device finally invented was so
planned that by pulling a string the shuttle shot
from side to side. For the shuttle an artificial
path was constructed, which consisted of a smooth
shelf on the base of the reed batten with boxes
at both ends to receive the shuttle as it moved
to and fro. Here the chief difficulty was driving
the shuttle with one stroke through the entire
breadth of the warp. But when this difficulty
was surmounted, the results were accelerated
motion and the freeing of one hand for battening.
Another gain was the possibility of weaving wider
cloth without an assistant weaver.
I04 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
27f Following the fly-shuttle came the drop-box
arrangement for permitting the use of a number of
shuttles with different kinds of weft.
The end boxes of the shuttle-race were
enlarged to contain two or more compartments,
with a device which raised and lowered them so as
to bring the desired compartment with its shuttle
of weft on a level with the shuttle-race.
Wefting — Battening
28 ■ While battening is the last process in weaving
and might seem of minor import, its significance is
by no means slight. It has a task of its
No batten . , . , i i . i
own to perform upon which good cloth
depends. This process packs close together the
lines of weft, making a firm, compact web, or an
evenly wefted more open texture. Except in
earliest, or finger battening, it arranges the weft
lines straight and parallel, while in the more per-
fected forms it also distributes the warp strands
in parallel and equidistant order. Its importance
is understood when one remembers that many of
the simplest looms, as the Egyptian mat loom,
include only the batten in addition to the beams;
this is the extent of the weaving apparatus.
28a The first battening was done with the fingers,
which press home each line of weft, although these
lines frequently are uneven. The short bodkin,
or slender pointed stick, was an early tool for
packing fine weft, especially in pattern making.
CLOTH MAKING 105
It is thrust between the warp strands, which
drives home in a better way than do the fingers.
28b The almost universal batten or beater-in of
peoples of lower culture the world over is the long
thin sword-shaped stick batten. It is stick
a very useful tool with a double function, Batten
for it assists in two weaving processes, the shedding
and the battening. After each warp shed is opened
the stick batten is entered flatwise, and then turned
edgewise to widen the shed for the passage of the
weft strand ; when the shedding and picking for this
line of weft is finished, the sword batten undertakes
its second and chief work of beating up, by first
being turned flatwise and then struck against the
weft. With this tool, battening is a very slow pro-
cess, since it is a free tool which must be entered anew
with each line of weft, although as previously stated
this means nothing to aborigines with whom time
28c counts for little. The second task of another
double-function tool, the needle-shuttle, is beat-
ing up the weft after it has been entered
through the shed, but this cumbersome tool
probably does not have a wide distribution.
The sword-shaped batten is employed exclusively
with hand shedding and rod-heddle shedding; it
never carried over into shaft-heddle shedding or
later industry. Frequently accompanying this
batten in pattern weaving is the weaving comb,
which assists in driving close short stretches of
weft.
Io6 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
286. Progress in weaving invention brought the reed
batten, a very great advance over the sword-shaped
Reed stick uscd for this purpose. It consists
Batten ^f ^i series of short vertical reed strips, or
wires set the width of the warp and fastened in a
frame. Between these reeds pass the warp threads,
which are held by this means in a parallel series
evenly dispersed and in such a manner that the
web is kept of uniform width. For time saving,
the value of a batten always in place in the warp
is easily appreciated. The batten does not then
have to be entered anew with each line of weft.
This also distributes each warp thread in its
appointed position, besides lessening the strain on
the threads. The earliest reed battens hang loose
28e ' on the warp threads ; they are lightly attached by
cords as in the ancient One-shaft heddle loom of
28f China. All later ones on hand looms are firmly sus-
28g pended from the top of the loom frame ; and those on
power looms swing from below. Some think the
28h crude weaving comb of aborigines suggested the reed
batten, others believe that it followed the shaft-
heddle when the textile inventor realized the value of
evenly dispersed warp threads. Quite as possibly the
reed warp spacer, such as was employed by the Ainu
behind their shedding devices, may have preceded the
reed batten.
Loom Frame
29 The office of the frame differs from that of the
devices which carry on the weaving. Its duty is
CLOTH MAKING 107
to support the working parts, that they may per-
29a form their function. Two types of looms, the Frame-
^ less two-bar loom and the One-shaft Frame
loom, are frameless, depending upon out- beginnings
side means for support. A belt passing about the
waist of the weaver secures the cloth end of the
strands, and a distant post, or the feet of the weaver,
29b secure the warp end. The One-beam loom, the Two-
bar loom and the simplest varieties of the Two-beam
loom show only the beginnings of the loom frame in
pegs, posts and hooks which serve as stays or sup-
ports. Two posts answer the purpose for the One-
beam loom and the Two-bar loom, four pegs for
the simplest horizontal variety of the Two-beam
loom, and two cords and two hooks in the crudest
vertical variety of the same type.
29c The developing frame of the Weighted warp loom
adds a couple of cross-pieces to stay its vertical
uprights, a practice sometimes resorted
to in the One-beam loom for heavy webs. Rectangular
as they might pull the uprights out of ^^™®^
place. As we have stated before, the Two-beam
loom may have no frame, or it may have stay-
ings of very simple pegs, hooks or cords. But
some of its vertical forms have a true frame, com-
posed usually of four separate parts, two post and
two cross-pieces, as on Navajo and a number of
African looms. But these four parts at times are
solidly united into a rectangular frame, as in the
29d Egyptian loom of the New ICingdom. Of necessity
Io8 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
the frame takes a rectangular form from the shape
of the stretched warp strands. Notably the loom
frames on the first, second, third and fifth types do
not function perfectly, since here the frame does not
support all the working parts. In these types it
serves only to stay the warp by holding the beams.
It is interesting to remember that with a very few
exceptions, this is true of all vertical looms. This
position does not lend itself to a perfect functioning
, frame.
29e It was the horizontal frame, therefore, which
claimed the attention of later inventors as the one
Horizontal best fitted to the working parts of the
Frame loom. When it is given this position
29f it begins to take on fresh duties. On the One-shaft
treadle loom it holds the shedding and battening
devices in addition to the warp beam, although it
excludes the cloth beam to be attached to the
29g weaver's belt. On the Two-shaft treadle loom the
frame relinquishes control over the beams and de-
votes itself to sustaining the weft devices for shed-
29h ding and battening. In the earliest forms of the
Perfected hand loom the frame again supports the
beams as well as the devices for shedding and
battening, only omitting that for picking. But
with the invention of the fly-shuttle this device
was included, thus uniting within the loom frame
all warp and wefting devices. As speed in
weaving increased and the frame developed to in-
clude all working parts, its structure was greatly
CLOTH MAKING lOg
strengthened and refined. For all parts required
exact adjustment and good support to withstand
the heavy vibrations of the various weaving pro-
cesses, especially when the loom was driven by power.
291 The last three types of weaving show a slight
variation in the shape of base from the Perfected
hand loom ; and the Draw loom and the Jacquard
have greatly extended shedding devices which
mount high above the rectangular base.
Warping
30 An important process in weaving is warping, or
arranging the warp threads for the loom. For this
they are laid parallel to each other in simplest
regular order and must be equal in Warpmg
length, as well as crossed twice to form two leases.
Difficulty is experienced by the warper in keeping
each thread separate with an equal tension through-
out, especially for fine webs which may reach two
thousand yards in length and have as many as
30a ninety threads to the inch. The simplest method
of warping is practiced by northwestern tribes in
North America. It consists only of measuring the
yarn in proper warp lengths. It is not necessary
on this loom to secure equal tension, as the warp
strands hang loose, held only by their own weight.
Neither is it necessary to prepare the two leases, as
there is no shedding device to require leases. The
warping device here is a simple measuring stick some
five feet long with a few notches cut along the edge
no YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
near one or both ends. Around this stick the yarn is
wound from end to end, or from end to a notch near
the opposite end of the stick. When enough yarn
has been measured ofT on the stick, it is cut and the
warp strands are ready to be suspended from the
one beam of the One-beam loom.
30b The first instance we know of effective warping,
in the modern sense, is stake warping. A few
stake stakes are driven into the ground at a
Warping given distance apart. The weaver with
a ball or a bobbin of yarn in one hand, or one in each
hand, then passes from one stake to another, winding
the thread in parallel order from the ball or bobbin
on to the stakes. Here the warp threads are laid
with as equal tension as possible and the leases are
carefully preserved. The Navajo use but two stakes
in warping for their short webs but the weavers of
India need more stakes for their longer webs. In-
deed for these the stakes are often so set as to oblige
the warper to travel almost round his house and back.
30c A very similar method to the last is warping
on pegs driven into the wall, or into a warp-
Peg ing board. Again, the pegs are inserted
Warping [^^q warping bars, a standing frame
which leans against the wall. Later the warping
device freed itself from wall support entirely in the
bartrees, which with a support or standard may stand
in any open space. Here the position of the peg,
the important part, is horizontal instead of vertical,
as were the warping stakes. Over the horizontal
CLOTH MAKING III
pegs the yarn is more easily warped and with less
exercise. At first when warping, a single bobbin
or ball was held in one hand, or one in each hand;
but later a number of bobbins were placed in a
bobbin carrier, a small frame held in the hand.
This device, with its few bobbins, increased the speed
in warping so much that more bobbins were added
to a larger and stationary frame or creel. From it
a large number of threads were drawn and laid on
the bartrees.
30d But it was not until after the expenditure of
much effort through the 17th, i8th and 19th
centuries that finally, by the invention warping
of the warping mill, warping for fine ^^^^
materials like silk was made easy. The mill is a
revolving cylindrical form of skeleton framework
which takes the place of the warping bars. With it
are a very much enlarged bobbin frame, or creel,
and a heck through which the threads pass on
their way to the mill. The heck spreads the warp
threads evenly upon the reel and also holds a device
for crossing the threads to form the lease. A
newer mill revolves about a horizontal axis and it
is claimed lays the warp strands with more uni-
form tension than the vertical mills. The two are
30e turned by hand, although a later invention is a
warping machine run by power and one which
warps directly upon the beam. Recent discoveries
record that ancient Egyptians of the New Kingdom
had a warping creel and reel.
112 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Developing Agencies
It is not sufficient that each weaving process be
perfect in itself ; in addition to this it must be
• Perfecting adjusted to the perfected mechanism of
Mechanism ^^q other processes. For all parts are
obhged to work together, pulleys, gearings, reverse
gearings, check stops, etc., all mounted, fitted and
balanced to a nicety, so as to move in perfect
harmony. Weaving principles of necessity remain
the same, the new and improved ideas are applied
to the same weaving principles. The sequence of
motions also remains the same for both the primary
and secondary parts. To control these, especially
at a high speed, the loom parts required strengthen-
ing and yet needed to be delicately regulated. Each
change of movements, heddle shedding, shuttle
picking, batten beating up, beams " letting-off "
and " taking-up " meant adjustment and read-
justment to keep all working in unison. This was
more easy with hand power, but more difficult to
govern with mechanical power.
31 As the weaving industry expanded, it changed
from a manual process to a mechanical one. The
races of the East achieved the most
Power
perfect manual weaving and the peoples
of Europe, transforming the crude loom implement
into a machine, achieved the most complete
31a mechanical weaving. All types of weaving were
done entirely by hand power up to the oriental type
CLOTH MAKING 1 13
of the One-shaft treadle loom. From that type
through the Two-shaft treadle loom, the Perfected
hand loom, the Draw loom and the Jacquard, the
looms were so harnessed and geared that the shed-
ding process could be worked by foot power. But
hand power still controlled the other processes.
31b The Draw loom with its double shedding required
both foot power and hand power to manage this
process, foot power from the weaver for the front
harness and hand power from the drawboy for
31c the back harness. With the Power loom all pro-
cesses were so unified as to be driven by one
power ; that power was steam.
WEAVING TYPES
ONE-BEAM LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
The most rudimentary weaving implement : a loom of
one beam supported by two posts.
Warp device : a simple beam from which the warp is
suspended.
Weft devices : none, the shedding, picking and batten-
ing done with fingers.
Weaving proceeds from above downward.
Outline
Example : American Indians of northwest coast.
Implement — One-beam loom (15-18).
1. frame, two vertical supporting posts (29, 29b, d).
2. one-beam, non-revolving (19, 19a, 20, 20a).
3. no shedding device (24, 25, 25a).
4. no picking device (27, 27a).
5. no battening device (28, 28a).
Warping device — measuring stick (30, 30a).
Power ^ Hand (31, 31a).
Process — Loom mounting.
114
Fig. 30. — One-beam Loom, North America
The warp strands of bark strips are hung loosely over a beam supported by two
posts. The weft is run in over and under the warp strands without a
shedding device.
Fig. 31. — Wool Weaving on One-beam Loom
This Chilkat blanket in process of making is not in plain over and under weave
but of twined weaving. The warp strands hang loosely without stretching
as in Fig. 30, and no shedding, picking or battening devices are used.
WEAVING TYPES
"5
Warping — warp wound on measuring stick and cut
from stick in strands.
Beaming.
a. warp strands suspended over
beam.
b. warp strands suspended over
headline attached to beam.
Heddling, none.
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening — done
with fingers.
a. one weft strand interlacing.
b. one weft strand wrapping.
c. two or more weft strands twining.
Economic Gain
Here the usefulness of the device must
be summarized without comparison.
For uniformity the items are grouped
as in the succeeding types.
In production :
The one beam helps stay the warp
strands at one end.
It serves both as warp beam and cloth
beam.
In product :
More even technic than if without
loom.
A great variety of weft arrangements
possible from warp stayed atone end .
Fig. 32. — Meas-
uring Staff
Over this stick from
end to end the
warp yarn is
wrapped to ob-
tain the required
length of warp
strands.
ii6
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
fAW.q-
Fig. 33. — Method of Attaching Warp to Beam
The loom beam is flat with pierced holes, through which runs a cord to attach
the headline, over which are suspended the soft warp strands. Below the
headline is a row of plain twining (A), of two strands which twine about
the warp. Farther down is a border of three-ply twine (B), adjoining
which is a square of twilled twine (C), the body weave of the Chilkat
blanket.
[f^ya
Fig. 34. — Twilled Twining and One Method of Joining Strands
IN Pattern Making
WEAVING TYPES 117
BIBLIOGRAPHY
3 Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 190, 191.
2 Boas, F. "Indians of British Columbia," Rept. British Asso.
Science, 1890.
1 Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket," American Museum Mem.,
III.
- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas." (Illustration.) Mus. fur Volkerkunde zu Leipzig,
Band I, Heft I.
2 Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions."
- General guide to American Museum Natural History. (Il-
lustration.)
I Guide to anthropological collections, Provincial Mus., Victoria,
B. C., 13, 23, 37.
3 Hamilton, A. "Maori art," New Zealand Institute, 271-288,
298.
I Handbook of American Indians, "Weaving." Bureau Am.
Ethnology Bull. 30, 11.
- Handbook to ethnographical collections, British Museum.
(Illustration.)
1 Hoffman, W. J. "The Menomonee Indians," 14 Rept. Bureau
Am. Ethnology, 259.
2 Holmes, W. H. Q) " Prehistoric textile fabrics in United States."
3 Report Bureau American Ethnology.
I Holmes, W. H. (^) "Prehistoric textile fabrics in eastern United
States." 13 Report Bureau American Ethnology.
I Kissell, M. L. Q) "Aboriginal weaving in America," Rept.
Cotton Manufactures Asso., 1910.
- Kissell, M. L. (^) "A new type of spinning." Am. Anthro-
pologist, XVIII, 2. (Illustration.)
I Kissell, M. L. (^) " Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep-
aration.)
I Mason, O. T. (0 "Woman's share in primitive culture," 63.
4 Nelson, E. W. "The Eskimo," 18 Rept. Bureau Am. Eth-
nology, Pt. I.
Il8 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
4 Swan, J. G. "Indians of Cape Flattery," Smithsonian Contri-
butions to Knowledge, XVI.
2 Willoughby, C. C. "New type of ceremonial blanket," Am.
Anthropologist, XII, i.
- Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
ILLUSTRATIONS
Emmons, PI. 35. Chilkat blanket makers.
p. 338. Batten and upper blanket border.
339. Weaving technic.
344. Pattern-boards for blankets.
Ephraim, fig. 15. Tlinget weaver.
Foreman, p. 112. The primitive loom.
General guide to American Museum.
p. 24. Mural painting. Weaving a Chilkat blanket.
Guide to anthropological collections, Provincial Museum.
p. 21. Chilkat blanket.
Hamilton, p. 271. Making a flax mat (robe).
Handbook ethnographical collections, British Museum.
Frontispiece — Robe of woven bark and wool.
Hoffman, PL 20. Mat making.
Holmes (^), PL 39. Pottery with impressions of textile fabrics.
figs. 72, 73, 77-90. Impressions of fabrics on ancient
pottery.
Holmes (^), PL 3. Mantle, or shirt of light-colored stuff.
4. Fringed shirt.
5. Frayed bag.
6. Charred cloth from mounds in Ohio.
7. Charred fabric from mounds.
9. Fabric marked pottery.
figs. 5, 6, 8, 10, 16, 18, 19. Ancient fabrics and im-
pressions of fabrics on ancient pottery.
Kissell (0, fig. I. Kwakiutl squaw.
2. Mat with checked design.
3. Primitive loom with plaited mat.
WEAVING TYPES
119
4-
Another type of loom.
5-
Unfinished Chilkat blanket.
6.
Old Chilkat blanket.
7-
Squaw weaving Chilkat blanket.
KisseU (2)
, PL 1.6.
Salish Indians weaving and spinnning
Willoughby, pp. i
, 5. Blanket.
2
-5. Technic.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 48.
Chilkat blanket.
II
WEIGHTED WARP LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Weaving implement : one beam
loom with weighted warp
strands.
Warp devices : one beam and
warp weights.
Weft devices : shed-sticks, or a
shed-stick and one or more
rod heddles for shedding ;
stick shuttle for picking; at
times a sword-like stick for
battening.
Weaving proceeds from above
downward.
Outline
Examples : Ancient Greek ; Ice-
landic ; Ancient Lake-dweller
weaving.
Fig. 35. — An Alpine
Weaver, About iooo b. c.
Scratched on an old tomb urn
from the eastern Alps is this
loom with no frame pictured
to show its character, but it
must have been similar to
that of the early Greek loom.
Weights stretch the warp,
and a shed-rod and rod-hed-
dle part the warp strands.
I20
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Reproduced by permission from Hooper's " Handloom Weaving."
Macmillan, U. S. A. and John Hogg, London.
Fig. 36. — Greek Weaver, 500 B.C., British Museum Vase
" The legend is of Circe at the moment when the Sorceress is in the act of offering
the noxious potion to Ulysses." Hooper.
Implement
I
Weighted warp loom.
frame — two vertical posts and crossbar (29, 29c, d).
warp device (19, 19b, 20,
20b).
(i) one-beam supported on
upper ends of frame
posts.
a. non-revolving.
h. revolving.
(2) warp weights,
shedding device (24, 25
26a, b).
a. two rods.
h. shed-rod and rod-heddle.
c. shed-rod and three rod
heddles moved
lever over cross-bar.
stick-shuttle (27, 27c).
batten — sword or paddle-shaped stick (28, 28b. c).
Fig. 37. — Circe Loom on
Greek Vase in Ashmo-
LEAN Museum. >
1 Weighted warp strands, revolv-
'-'y ing beam, stick-shuttle and
probably shed-rod and rod-
heddle are all present.
Power — Hand (31, 31a).
WEAVING TYPES
121
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping, over stakes (30, 30b).
Beaming, warp lengths suspended from beam.
Heddling.
1. shed-rod entered
through warps.
2. heddle-rod laid
across warp and
laced by cord to
back series of
alternate warp
strands.
Wefting.
Picking, Shedding, Bat-
tening.
a. by hand.
b. as in Frameless
two-bar loom.
Fig. 38. — A Bit of Penelope's
Loom, 500 b.c, from an Etruscan
Vase, Chiusi Museum
A portion of the cloth already woven
has been wound on the beam ; below
it is a decorative border with the
stick-shuttle ready to weave farther.
Economic Gain
In production :
Warp weights hold warp more taut.
Introduction of shedding, picking, and battening de-
vices.
In product :
Web coarse but finer than previous type.
Lines of weft more nearly horizontal from shedding
and battening devices.
122
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
^■y>t.^t\- ■'»■•<
Fig. 39. — Scandinavian Weighted Warp Loom.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving."
5 Burton, R. T. "Ultima Thula ; or a summer in Iceland," 198.
- Draper, G. O. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration.)
- Ephriam, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas." (Illustration.) Museum fiir Volkerkunde zu Leip-
zig, Band I, Heft I.
Ferrer, R. "ReaUexikon," Webstuhl, Webstuhlgewicht, Gewebe.
(Illustration.)
-Heiden, M. "HandworterbuchderTextilkunde." (Illustration.)
WEAVING TYPES
123
Fig. 40. — Weighted Warp Loom of Iceland.
124 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I Hooper, L-O) "Hand-loom weaving," 20-23, 81-86.
I Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and
future." (^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 953. (^) Rept.
Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I Hooper, L.(5) "Technique of Greek and Roman weaving."
Burlington Magazine, 191 1, 276.
1 KeUer, F. " The lake dwellers of Switzerland," 513.
3 Montelius, O. " Civilization of Sweden in heathen times."
4 Miintz, E.(^) "Short history of tapestry."
- Miintz, E.(^) "Tapisseries." (Illustration.)
- Miintz, E.(^) "La tapisserie." (Illustration.)
2 Pinkerton, J. "Voyages and travels," I, 4.
- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.)
I Roth, H. L. Q) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms."
Bankfield Museum Notes, Second series, No. 2.
I Roth, H. L. (-) "Studies in primitive looms." (Shedding.)
Bankfield Museum Notes, Second series. No. 8.
I Smith, W. Dictionary Greek and Roman Antiquities, II.
"Tela."
I Smith, Wayte and Marindin. Diet. Greek and Roman Antiq-
uities, II. "Tela."
I Thomson, W. G. "History of tapestry."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Barlow, p. 58. Loom of Iceland.
Draper, p. 24. Scandinavian loom.
•Ephraim, fig. 13. Loom of the Swiss Lake dwellers.
18. Loom of Faroe and Iceland.
22. Reconstructed loom of the Swiss Lake dwellers.
Forrer, PI. 278, fig. i. Loom on Hallstatt vase.
2. Scandinavian loom.
4, s, 9. Loom weights.
13. Embroidery frame.
14. Greek vase with Penelope at loom.
WEAVING TYPES 1 25
Heiden, p. 236. Greek loom.
Hooper, (}) p. 23. Loom of Penelope.
24. Loom of Circe.
Hooper, (^) (*) fig. 7. Loom on Boeotian vase, 500 B.C.
8. Penelope's loom, 500 b.c.
Hooper, (^) fig. 6. Loom of Penelope, Chiusi Museum.
8. Loom of Circe, Ashmolean Museum.
Keller, figs. 37-40. Conjectured loom.
- Magazines. See magazine illustration list.
Montelius, p. 160. Loom from Faroe Islands.
Miintz, 0) p. 17. Penelope's loom.
Miintz, (^) 31. Le Metier de Penelope.
Miintz, (^) 3. Le Metier de Penelope.
Ronchaud, p. 55. Greek loom.
Roth Q), p. 17. Greek loom on vase in Ashmolean Museum.
18. Loom weights of hardened mud and clay.
31. Greek vases showing tapestry loom (may be
embroidery frames).
32. Penelope at her loom.
32. Greek weaver at loom.
34. Scandinavian loom.
35. Icelandic loom.
37. Supposed loom weights found in England.
39. Model of weighted loom.
40. Greek shuttle in hand.
Roth (^), fig. I. Diagram to illustrate the principles of
weaving.
Smith, fig. I. Icelandic loom.
Smith, Wayte andMarindin, fig. i. Icelandic loom.
Thomson, fig. 6. Loom of Penelope from Greek vase about 400
B.C.
126
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
III
TWO-BAR LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Weaving implement : a loom with two non-revolving
bars supported by side posts (a transitional type be-
tween the suspended
warp loom and the
perfectly stretched
warp loom).
Warp devices : two
non-revolving bars
over which the warp
is wrapped from one
to the other.
Weft devices : fingers
perform shedding,
picking, battening
(except in Africa).
Weaving proceeds from below upward, or from front
backward.
Fig. 41. — ^ Simple Two-bar Loom,
South America
The warp is wrapped round and round
over the two bars.
Outline
Examples : Salish Indians ; Calabar, W. African ;
Tereno Indians ; Holamux Indians ; British Guiana
apron weaving.
Implement — Two-bar loom.
I. frame (29, 29b, d).
a. two heavy posts which hold ends of bars.
WEAVING TYPES
127
b. two posts support cross-stick from which the
upper bar hangs, the lower hangs in warp
strands.
c. no frame.
Fig. 42. — Another Crude Two-bar Loom from South America
Here two tree trunks serve as frame posts, while the warp itself supports the
lower bar.
2. bars — non-revolving, held in place by small
wedges or ropes (19, 19c, 20, 20c, 21).
a. two straight bars.
b. two bays, one bent and joined to the other to
form the letter D.
3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26a, b).
a. none, fingers perform shedding.
b. shed-stick and one or more rod-heddles (Afr.).
4. shuttle (27, 27a, b, c).
a. none, fingers do the picking.
128 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
b. long stick with hook or eye (Africa),
c. stick-shuttle (Africa).
5. batten (28, 28a, b, c).
a. none, fingers do the beating up.
b. none, stick-shuttle performs process.
c. sword-like stick.
Warping device (30, 30b).
a. none.
b. stakes.
Power — Hand (31).
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping (none), warp laid over bars without measur-
ing off; b. laid on stakes.
Beaming.
a. warp wrapped over and over beams.
b. warp wrapped over beams to back and there
turned in the opposite direction over a slender
rod, or cord (this rod or cord is in reality the
warp beam).
Wefting.
Shedding.
a. none, fingers raise and lower individual warp
strands.
b. shed-stick and rod-heddle as in Frameless two-
bar loom.
Picking, weft passed through warp strands by fingers
or by stick-shuttle.
a. over and under one warp strand (plain weave).
b. over and under two warp strands (twill
weave) .
Fig. 44. — Two-bar Loom, West Africa
The most advanced loom of this type is in Africa, where patterns are introduced
in overlay (an exceptional form).
WEAVING TYPES 129
Battening.
a. weft beaten up by fingers.
h. weft beaten up by stick-shuttle or batten.
Warp adjusting.
1. warp loosened by removing wedges or cords.
2. warp shifted over bars to bring unwoven warp
strands in front of weaver.
3. wedges replaced to tighten warp strands.
Economic Gain
In production :
Two bars furnish taut warp.
Longer web, twice the length between the bars.
Easy shifting of warp to adjust for convenience during
wefting.
In product :
Coarse web, but warp and weft strands are more
parallel and more evenly spaced.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
4 Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 215.
3 Boas, F. "Indians of British Columbia." Rept. British Asso.
Advancement Science, 1890, 566.
- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas." (Illustration.) Museum fiir Volkerkunde zu Leip-
zig, Band I, Heft I.
3 Gibbs, G. " Tribes of west Washington and northwest Oregon."
Contributions to North American Ethnology, I, 219.
I Guide to anthropological collections, Provincial Mus., Victoria,
B.C., 51.
- Hooper, L. "The loom and the spindle : past, present and future."
if) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.,
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
K
I30 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I Kane, P. "Wanderings," 210.
3 Kissell, M. L.C) "Aboriginal meaning in America." Rept.
Cotton Manuf. Asso., 1910.
- Kissell, M. L. (2) "A new type of spinning in North America."
(Illustration.) American Anthropologist, April- June, 1916.
I Kissell, M. L. (') "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In
preparation.)
1 Mason, O. T. "Woman's share in primitive culture," 60, 64.
2 Teit, J. "Shuswap Indians." American Museum Mem. IV,
Pt. VII.
- Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
ILLUSTRATIONS
Ephraim, fig. 14. Holamux loom.
17. Tereno loom.
Guide to Provincial Museum.
p. 52. Blanket making, Vancouver Island.
Hooper (^) (^), fig. 28. A Loom from Calabar.
Kissell (^), p. II. A third type of loom.
Kissell (^), Pi. 16. Salish loom.
Teit, PL 8. Blanket loom.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 5. A primitive loom.
IV
FRAMELESS TWO-BAR LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Weaving implement : a frameless two-bar loom ; during
weaving one bar is attached to belt passing about
weaver's body, the second to a distant post.
Warp devices : two free non-revolving bars (not true
beams) over which the warp is wrapped in passing
from one to the other.
Fig. 45. — Navajo Woman Weaving Belt
This frameless two-bar loom has for the far bar a tree branch and for the near
bar a long pole laid across the weaver's lap.
Fig. 46. — Indian Belt Loom, Mexico
WEAVING TYPES 131
Weft devices : a shed-stick, or shed-stick and one or
more rod-heddles ; a shuttle ; a sword-like batten.
Weaving proceeds from below upward, or from front
backward.
Outline
Example : Mexican belt weaving.
Implement — Frameless two-bar loom (29, 29a).
1. frame.
none (Navajo Indians to-day quite frequently
use a temporary frame of two slanting
posts) .
2. bars (19, 19d, 20, 21, 21a).
two light-weight bars (not true beams).
(i) first attached to some distant object.
(2) second attached to belt passing about weaver,
3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26a, b).
a. none.
b. a shed-rod and one or more rod-heddles.
c. extra short shed-rods.
4. shuttle (27, 27a, c, d).
a. none.
b. stick-shuttle.
c. bobbin-shuttle.
5. batten (28, 28a, b).
a. none.
b. comb.
c. sword-shape blade of wood.
Warping device (30, 30b).
a series of short stakes driven into ground.
132
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Fig. 47. — Waeping for Navajo Belt
Warping is done over four stakes. On these the weaver lays her warp as a
continuous string in such a way as to secure the shed-lease.
Power — Hand (3l).
Process — Loom mounting.
Reproduced bv permission from Harper's " Hand-
loom Wcavinq," MacmlUan, U. S. A., and
John Hogg, London.
Fig. 48. — The Shed-rod and Rod-
A flat ruler-shaped shed-rod is entered through
alternate warp strands for opening one shed.
Below it a rod is laid across the warp and the
back strands bound to it by a looped cord for
opening the second shed.
Warping.
warp laid about
slender stakes to
form a lease.
Beaming.
warp placed over
free bar at dis-
tant post and
another at-
tached to
weaver's belt,
carefully pre-
serving the
lease.
Heddling.
I. shed-rod en-
tered through
alternate
strands for
first shed.
WEAVING TYPES
133
2, heddle-rod laid across warp, and a cord caught
under the back warp strands and looped over
rod for second shed.
CLOTH 0"
BREftSTBEAM
Fig. 49. ROD-HEDDLE AND ShED-ROD AT WORK
Above — The rod-heddle is raised by the hand opening one shed for the weft.
Below — The rod-heddle is dropped, opening the second or counter shed for
another row of weft.
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
1. shed-rod holds open first shed; batten entered
flatwise and turned edgewise in first shed ; weft
inserted through first shed ; batten turned
flatwise, beats up first line of weft.
2. rod-heddle lifted to open second shed; batten
entered flatwise and turned edgewise in second
shed; weft inserted through second shed;
batten beats up second line of weft.
3. process is then repeated.
(When pattern is introduced often short shed-sticks
mark the pattern.)
Warp adjusting.
I. weaver leans slightly forward to lessen warp
tension.
134 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
2. warp shifted over bars to bring unwoven portion
to weaver.
3. weaver leans back to again tighten tension.
Economic Gain
In production :
The distant warp post allows great warp length, and
one still twice the distance between bars.
The presence of shedding, picking and battening
devices.
In product :
A close and very compact web.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Edge-Partington. "Album of weapons, tools and ornaments of
natives of the Pacific Islands," I, PI. 160.
I Ephraim, H. " Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas," 40, 60.
- Goddard, P. E.C) "Indians of the southwest." Am. Mus.
Handbook 2. (Illustration.)
- Handbook American Indians. Bu. Am. Eth. Bull. 30, 11.
"Weaving." (Illustration.)
- Handbook ethnographical collections, British Museum. (Illus-
tration.)
- Hooper, L.(') "Hand loom weaving." (Illustration.)
- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers," 130,
135-
4 Kissell, M. L.(i) "Aboriginal weaving in America." Rept.
Cotton Manuf. Asso., 1910.
WEAVING TYPES 135
I Kissell, M. L.(^) "Fabrics from primitive looms."
- Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
I Mason, O. T.(i) "Origin of inventions," 246.
3 Mason, O. T.{^) "Woman's share in primitive culture," 60.
I Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bureau Am.
Ethnology.
I Roth, H. L.(2) "Studies in primitive looms." (Shedding.)
Bankfield Museum notes. Second series, 8.
- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.)
3 Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes of northern Luzon,"
Philippine Journal of Science, I, 1906.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Edge-Partington, I, Taf. 160. Loom from Santa Cruz.
Ephraim, fig. 39. Loom from southeastern Asia.
53. Loom from Santa Cruz.
Goddard (}), p. 155. Navajo belt loom.
Handbook Am. Indians, II.
p. 928. Navaho belt weaving.
Handbook ethnology collections, British Museum.
p. 92. Philippine belt.
Hooper Q), PL 8. Belt loom.
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 3. Belt loom.
p. 130. Warping for belts.
James, p. 134. Navaho belt weaver at work.
Kissell (^), fig. 14. Loom.
Matthews, PL 36. Navajo woman weaving a belt.
p. 388. Warping for belts.
Roth (2), fig. I. Diagram to illustrate the principles of weav-
ing.
Watson, p. 15. Navajo belt weaver.
Worcester, PL 43 b. An Ifugao woman weaving.
45 c. Tingian weaver.
136
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
V
TWO-BEAM LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Simplest weaving implement for perfectly stretched
warp : a loom of two beams with warp extended be-
tween them.
Warp devices : the two beams, a cloth beam and a warp
beam.
Fig. 50. — Egyptian Mat Loom
This simple Two-beam loom with stretched warp is pegged to the ground. The
weaver is obliged to sit upon the finished web as he works, since the cloth beam
does not revolve.
Weft devices: without shedding device, or with shed-
stick and one or more rod-heddles; without picking
device, or with stick-shuttle of different forms ; with
out battening device, or with sword-shaped batten, or
a weaving comb.
Weaving proceeds from front backward, or from below
upwards.
WEAVING TYPES
137
Outline
Examples : Ancient Egyptian mat makers ; Egyptians
of Middle Kingdom ; Ishogo ; Ainu ; Navajo ; Egyp-
tians of New Kingdom.
Implement — Simple two-beam loom.
Fig. 51. — -Egyptian Linen Loom, Middle Kingdom
A horizontal loom pegged to the ground with shed-rod and rod-heddle and prob-
ably two revolving beams.
I. frame (29, 29b, c, d).
a. none, four pegs secure beams to ground.
b. none, two roof hooks and two floor hooks secure
beams.
c. none, warp beam attached to distant post, cloth
beam to weaver's belt.
138
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Fig. 52. — Slave Indian Quill Belt Loom
A tree branch bent like a bow furnishes the frame on which to stretch the warp.
It is a transitional form, since there are no beams.
d. vertical frame of separate parts, two vertical
posts, two crossbars.
e. vertical frame of complete construction.
2. beams, warp and cloth (19, 19e, 20, 21, 22, 22a,
23).
a. both beams non-revolving.
h. warp beam non-revolving, cloth beam revolving.
c. both beams revolving.
3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26a, b).
a. none, fingers shed.
h. shed-stick, and one or more rod-heddles.
4. shuttle (27, 27a, b, c).
a. none, fingers perform the picking.
b. long needle-shuttle with hook or eye.
c. short stick-shuttle.
5. batten (28, 28a, b, c).
a. none, fingers batten.
h. none, save needle-shuttle.
c. comb.
d. sword-shape blade of wood.
Warping device (30, 30b, c, d).
a. series of stakes.
WEAVING TYPES . 139
b. wall pegs.
c. bobbin creel and reel.
Power — ^Hand (31).
Fig. 53. — Navajo Method of Warping for Blanket Making
The diagram shows the ends of two poles and the Navajo method of laying the
continuous warp over them to form the shed-lease.
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping.
a. none, warp laid directly on beams.
b. warp laid over ground stakes.
c. warp laid over wall pegs.
d. warp strands pulled from spool frame and wound
on reel.
Beaming.
a. warp laid on beams in place.
b . warp arranged on free bars which later act as beams .
HeddUng.
a. none.
b. with rod-heddle and shed-rod.
1. shed-rod entered under and over alternate
strands.
2. heddle-rod laid across warp and a cord caught
under each back warp strand and looped
about heddle-rod.
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
I. shed-rod holds open first shed; batten entered
flatwise and turned edgewise in first shed;
140
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
weft inserted through first shed ; batten beats
up first line of weft.
Fig. 54. — Navajo Loom
Shed-rod («), rod-heddle (w), batten. (/), and two non-revolving beams (/) are
present. The warp beam can be lowered by the cords {e and g) and the
finished web below folded and stitched to the cloth beam.
2. rod-heddle lifted to open second shed ; batten
entered flatwise and turned edgewise in second
shed; weft inserted in second shed; batten
beats up second line of weft.
3. process is then repeated.
Warp adjusting.
When there is adjustment the warp beam is
lowered, and the cloth beam receives the
WEAVING TYPES 141
woven web either stitched to it in folds or
rolled upon it.
Economic Gain
In production :
Perfectly stretched warp.
Shedding device increases speed of the more perfect
varieties.
Revolving cloth beam increases length of the same.
In product :
Texture firm from tightly and evenly stretched warp,
although grades and materials of this type vary
greatly.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Andre, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas."
I Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 502, 766.
1 Banerjei, N. N.(^) "Woolen fabrics of Bengal,". 23.
2 Banerjei, N. N.(2) Cotton fabrics of Bengal, 52.
2 Banerjei, N. N.(^) Same as above in Journal Indian Art, VIII.
3 Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving," 56.
2 Bartlett, J. R. "Personal narratives," II, 225.
- Braulik, A. " Altagyptische Weberei." Dingler's polytech-
nisches Jour. 311. (Illustration.)
- Cailliaud, M. F. "Les Arts et Metiers." (Illustration.)
- Cavendish, A. E. J. "Korea and the sacred white mountain."
(Illustration.)
- Chamberlain, J. F. "How we are clothed." (Illustration.)
- Champollion, J. F. " Monuments de I'Egypte," IV. (Illus-
tration.)
- Cole, F. C. "Bagobos of Davas Gulf." Philippine Jour.
Science D. 6, 191 1. (Illustration.)
I Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art," 243.
142 YARN AND CT.OTH MAKING
I Crawford, D. M. C. "Peruvian textiles." American Mu-
seum Anthrop. Papers, XII, Pt. III.
I Davies, N. de G. "Five Theban tombs."
I Dellenbaugh^ F. S. "North Americans of yesterday."
- Dewar, J. C. "Voyage to Nyanza, Salomon Island." (Illus-
tration.)
- Draper, D. O. "Labor saving looms."
- Du Chaillu, P. "A journey to Ashangoland, W. Africa."
(Illustration.)
4 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving — archaeology and art."
1 Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik und ihre Ver-
breitung ausserhalb Europas." A. p. 12, 26 ; B. 18, 23, 28, 40.
2 Erman, A. "Life of ancient Egypt," 448.
- General guide to American Mus. Natural History. (Illustration.)
6 Goddard, P. E.(i) "Indians of the southwest." American
Mus. Handbook, 2.
2 Goddard, P. E.(^) "Navajo blankets." American Mus.
Journal, Nov. 1910.
- Gosse, A.B. "Thecivilizationof ancient Egypt." (Illustration.)
- Handbook American Indians, II. "Weaving." (Illustration.)
- Heiden, M. " Handworterbuch der Textilkunde." (Illustra-
tion.)
3 Hitchcock, R. "The Ainos of Yezo, Japan," 463.
I HoUister, W. S. "The Navajo and his blanket."
1 Hooper, L.(i) "Hand loom weaving," 18, 81; 19, 84-86.
2 Hooper, L. "The loom and the spindle: past, present and
future." (^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.
('') Rept. Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
I Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana," 388.
I James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers."
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England."
- Kimakowicz-Winnicki. "Spinn- und Webewerkzeuge in vor-
geschichtlicher Europas." Darstellung iiber friih und vor-
geschichtlicher Kultur-Kunst und Volkerentwicklung, 2 Heft.
(Illustration.)
WEAVING TYPES 143
- Kissell, M. L. "Aboriginal weaving in America." (Illustra-
tion.) Rept. Cotton. Manuf. Asso., 1910.
I Kissell, M. L. "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prepara-
tion.)
- Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler," II. (Illustration.)
- Manchester, H. H. "The story of silk and the Cheney silks."
(Illustration.)
I Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving," 19,45.
1 Mason, O. T.(i) "Origin of inventions-," 246.
2 Mason, 0. T.(^) "Woman's share in primitive cvdture," 60.
3 Maspero, G.(^) "Manual of Egyptian archaeology."
I Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bu. Am. Eth-
nology.
4 Miintz, E.(i) "Short history of tapestry."
- Miintz, E.(^) "La tapisserie." (Illustration.)
- Miintz, E.(^). "Tapisseries." (Illustration.)
I Murphy, W. S. "Textile industries," IV, loi.
- Newberry, P. E. "Beni Hassan," I, II. (Illustration.)
- Newberry, P. E. "El Bersheh," I. (Illustration..)
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.)
- Olivier, L. "La Tunisie." (Illustration.)
I Penhallow, D. P. "Fabrication of Aino Cloth." Scientific
American Sup. V. 10, Sup. 244, Sept. 4, 1880; p. 3883.
I Pepper, G. "Making of Navajo blanket." Everybody's Mag.,
Jan. 1902.
- Perrot and Chipiez. " History of art in Egypt," I.
- Ratzel, F. "History of Mankind," II. (Illustrations.)
- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.)
- RoseUini, I. "Monumenti," II. (Illustration.)
I Roth, H. L.(i) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." Bank-
field Mus. Notes, Series 2, No. 2.
I Roth, H. L.(^) "Studies in primitive looms." Bankfield Mus.
Notes, Series 2, No. 8.
- Roth, H. L.(^) "Natives of Sarawak, Borneo."
144 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I Russell, F. "Pima Indians," 26 Report Bureau American
Ethnology, 149.
- Schurtz, H. "Urgeschichte der Kultur." (Illustration.)
- Smith, W. Dictionary Greek and Roman antiquities, "Tela."
.(Illustration.)
- Smith, Wayte and Marindin. Dictionary Greek and Roman
antiquities, "Tela." (Illustration.)
3 Thomson, W. G. "A history of tapestry," 2.
4 Tyler, E. B. "Anthropology."
4 Walton, P. "Story of textiles."
4 Warden, A. J. "Linen- trade, ancient and modern," 212.
- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.)
4 Wilkinson, J. G. " Manners and customs of ancient Egyptians."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Andrea, p. 40. Making hammock.
Bancroft(^), p. 539. Mexican weaver.
Banerjei (^) PI. 12, (^) PL 83. Weaving a dari.
(^) 13 1 (^) 84. Weaving a kalin.
Barlow, p. 56, fig. i. Egyptian mat loom.
p. 57 Egyptian horizontal loom of Middle King-
dom.
Branlik, fig. 40. Egyptian horizontal loom.
41. Shedding diagram.
Cailliaud, PL 17 A. Loom of the Middle Kingdom.
PL 18. Ancient Egyptian mat maker.
Cavendish, p. 52. Weaving cloth.
Chamberlain, p. 51. A native of the Congo basin weaving.
ChampoUion, PL 366. Man weaving mat.
PL 381. Women of Egypt weaving.
Cole, fig. I. A Bagobo weaver with loom.
Coomaraswamy, PL IV. Mat weavers.
Crawford, p. 85. Common type of Peruvian loom.
WEAVING TYPES
145
Davies, PL 37. Weaving in the XI Dynasty.
Dellenbaugh, p. 127. Navajo woman at loom.
131. Details of Navajo loom construction.
Dewar, p. 46. Salomon Island loom for weaving grass cloth.
Draper, p. 21. Mexican weaver.
Du Chillue, p. 291. Ishogo loom and shuttle.
Encyclopaedia Britannica.
fig. 29. Loom from the Sarawak.
Ephraim, fig. 16. Early Navajo loom.
19. Navajo loom.
21. Loom from Ischogo.
24. Loom from North Africa.
27. Old Egyptian loom.
33. Tapestry weaving.
34. Loom of the Aino.
38. Loom of the Schoka.
40. Loom of Borneo.
41. Loom of the Philippines.
54; Old Mexican loom.
55. Loom of Central America.
Erman, p. 448. Weaving in the Middle Empire.
General guide to American Museum.
p. 34. A Hopi weaver.
Goddard (}), p. 153. Navajo woman beating down the wool with
batten stick.
Goddard (^), p. 203. Navajo summer home.
206. Weaving a Navajo blanket.
Gosse, p. T,;^. Egyptian women weaving.
32. Man weaving on loom.
Handbook American Indians, II.
p. 928. Navajo spinning and weaving.
Navajo loom.
Egyptian horizontal loom.
Rug loom of India.
Aino woman weaving.
929.
Heiden, M., p. 10.
256.
Hitchcock, p. 463.
146 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
HoUister, p. 25. Navajo summer hogan.
HoUister, p. 121. Navajo weaver.
Hooper Q), p. 20. Egyptian mat loom.
21. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom,
Hooper (^), {*), fig. 10. Egyptian loom and weaver.
II. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom.
13. Loops and heddle rod.
14. Tapestry loom.
28 b. Calibar loom.
Im Thurn, p. 289. Carib method of making a hammock.
James, Frontispiece. A Navaho weaver.
p. 102, fig. 125. Navaho weaver at her open-air loom.
104, fig. 126. Ordinary Navaho blanket loom.
105, fig. 127. Warping for blanket.
106, fig. 128. Navaho weaver at work.
fig. 129. Batten stick in position for passage of
weft.
109, fig. 134. Weaving saddle girth,
no, fig. 135. Healds for weaving diagonals.
p. 114, fig. 141. EUe, one of the best weavers.
fig. 142. Tuli, the child weaver.
130, fig. 188. Warping for sash,
132, fig. 190. Zuni heald.
fig. 191. Aztec weaver.
154, fig. 207. Navaho weaver.
194, fig. 244. Hopi weaver at Sechomovi.
fig. 245. Hopi weaver at Orabic.
195, fig. 247. Hopi weaving ceremonial sash,
Kimakowicz-Winnicki, p. 53, fig. 82. Egyptian loom of Middle
Kingdom.
Kissell C), fig. 9. Navajo loom.
Lepsius. Abth. II, PL 126. Egyptian weavers.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Manchester, p. 14. The earliest picture of weaving.
Marsden, p. 19. Ancient Egyptian mat weaver.
WEAVING TYPES 147
Marsden, p, 21. Egyptian loom with two weavers.
24. Grecian vertical loom.
46. Loom from Salomon Islands.
47. Ishogo weaver, Ashangoland, West Africa.
Mason Q), p. 244. Zuni woman weaving blanket.
Mason {^), p. 61. Navajo weaver.
266. Navajo woman weaving blanket.
Maspero, p. 295. Man weaving hanging or carpet.
321. Egyptian women weaving linen.
Matthews, PL 35. Weaving diamond-shaped diagonals.
38. Bringing down the batten.
p. 378. Ordinary Navajo blanket loom.
379. Diagram showing formation of warp.
382. Weaving of saddle-girth.
383. Arrangement of warp threads for saddle-girth.
384. Diagonal cloth.
391. Aztec weaver.
Miintz (1), p. 4. High warp loom of ancient Egyptians.
Miintz (2), ,17. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom.
Miintz (^), 2 b. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom.
Murphy, p. loi. Hammock weaving.
Newberry Q), I, PI. 29, 2 row from below, Horizontal loom with
two weavers.
II, 13, 3 row from below, Beaming, Heddling.
13, 4 row from below. Mat weaving.
Newberry (^), I, PI. 26, i row from below. Warping, Beaming.
26, 2 row from below, Weaver (at extreme
right).
Olivier, p. 244. Weaver at loom.
245. Weaver at loom.
Oppel, p. 209. Attemexikauerin webend.
PenhaUow, PI. i. Instruments for weaving Aino cloth.
2. Method of stretching warp.
3. Weaving Aino cloth.
Pepper, p. 35. Navajo weaver.
148
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Pepper, p. 39. Navajo warping.
40. Warp beamed.
41. Wefting.
Perrot and Chipiez, I, p. 34. Women at loom.
Ratzel, II, p. 392. Weaver of Ishogo.
Ronchaud, p. 57. Egyptian weaver at horizontal loom.
Rosellini, 2, PI. 41. Women weaving.
41. Two mat makers.
Roth (1), p. 3. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom (Cailliaud).
4. Same (Wilkinson).
4. Same (Rosellini).
5. Same (Lepsius).
5. Same (Newberry).
6. Same (Davies).
9. Same (Davies).
11. Model from Liverpool Institute.
12. Tomb of Tehuti-hetep, El Bershel.
13. Bedouin Arab weaving.
19. Wooden peg, Manchester Museum.
19. Lathes, Manchester Museum.
20. Weaving comb, Manchester Museum.
25. The linen girdle of Rameses III.
30. Bushongo weaver at work.
Roth (^), fig. I. Principles of weaving.
I a. Heddle rod.
2. Spools and shuttles.
3, 4. Ainu woman weaving.
8-28. Details of Ainu weaving.
29, 30. Slave Indian loom.
31-37. Weaving devices.
PI. I. Mazatec loom.
Roth (^) , p. 30. Loom of the Sarawak.
Russell, p. 149. Model of Pima loom.
Schurtz, p. 320. Aino loom.
Smith, fig. 4. Simple Greek loom of Middle Age.
6. Weaver in modern Lycia.
Fig. 56. — Hopi Belt Weaver Opening Upper Shed
This simple shaft heddle opens both sheds and does the work of shed-rod and
rod-heddle.
Here the heddle is lowered opening upper shed, the batten is entered and turned
edgewise to hold open the shed. The shuttle will be passed through shed
and batten turned flatwise will beat up weft when it will be removed.
Fig. 54 shows the heddle lifted opening lower shed, the batten entered and turned
edgewise, and the shuttle passing into open shed.
WEAVING TYPES I 49
Smith, Wayte and Marindin.
fig. 4. Simple Greek loom of Middle Age.
6. Weaver in modern Lycia.
Thurn, p. 289. Carib model of making a hammock.
Thomson, fig. i. A simplified tapestry loom.
5. Egyptian weavers.
Tylor, p. 248. Aztec girl weaving.
Walton, Frontispiece. Navajo weaver.
Watson, p. 18. Navajo loom.
20. Japanese loom.
Wilkinson, I, p. 317. Horizontal loom (for linen).
II, 170. Mat loom.
II, 174. Wooden comb.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 51. Navajo loom.
VI
ONE-SHAFT LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Weaving implement : a frameless stretched warp loom
v^ith shaft-heddle hanging loosely on warp ; warp
extends between free cloth beam attached to belt
passing about body of weaver and distant post.
Warp devices : free cloth beam and bunched warp ends.
Weft devices : one shaft-heddle adjusted by hand ; short
stick shuttle ; sword-shaped batten.
Weaving proceeds from front backward.
Outline
Example : Zuni and Hopi belt weaving..
Implement — One-shaft loom.
I. no frame (29, 29a).
150 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
2. beams (19, 20, 21, 21a).
(i) non-revolving cloth beam attached to
weaver's belt, web held over beam by
a removable iron pin.
(2) warp beam.
a. missing ; bunched warp attached to dis-
tant post.
h. revolving beam held by weaver's feet.
3. one free shaft-heddle of slats holding all warp
strands (24, 25, 26, 26c).
d) eyelets in slats holding alternate warp
strands.
(2) slits between slats for second series of alter-
nate warp strands.
4. stick-shuttle (27, 27c).
5. batten (28, 28a, c).
a. fingers only.
h. sword-shaped stick.
Warping device (30, 30b) .
a series of short stakes driven into ground.
Power — Hand (3l).
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping.
warp strands laid in lengths desired without making
lease.
Beaming, Heddling.
1. warp ends bunched and attached to post.
2. first series of warp ends passed through heddle
eyelets, second series passed through slits.
3. warp ends attached to cloth beam.
WEAVING TYPES 1 51
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
1 . heddle raised to open first shed ; batten entered
and turned edgewise in first shed; shuttle
inserts weft through first shed ; batten flat-
wise beats up first fine of weft.
2. heddle lowered to open second shed; batten
entered and turned edgewise in second shed ;
shuttle inserts weft through second shed ;
batten flatwise beats up second line of weft.
3. process is then repeated.
Warp adjusting.
1. weaver moves in toward warp post.
2. unpins previously finished web and draws over
the cloth beam the freshly finished web and
again inserts iron pin.
Economic Gain
Here the comparison is between the belt looms : the
Two-bar loom and the One-shaft loom.
In production :
Increased speed from opening both sheds by same
device.
A more easily managed heddle.
In product :
More closely packed weft.
More evenly distributed warp from the shaft heddle.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
5 Barlow, A. " History and principles of weaving," p. 56.
4 Encyclopaedia Britannica. " Weaving ^ archaeology and art."
152 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
I Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik und ihre Ver-
breitung ausserhalb Europas."
I Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions," p. 112.
- Handbook American Indians, II. "Weaving." (Illustration.)
- Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving." (Illustration.)
I Mason, O. T.Q) " Origin of inventions."
I Mason, 0. T.(^) "Primitive frame for weaving narrow fabrics."
Rept. National Museum, 1899, p. 485.
I Mason, O. T.(^) Same article as above in Scientific Am. Sup.
V. 51, sup. 1324.
1 Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bureau Ethnology.
- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.)
- Stevenson, M. "Zufii Indians." 23 Rept. Bureau Am. Eth-
nology. (Illustration.)
2 Thompson, W. G. "History of tapestry."
2 Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing."
- Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
ILLUSTRATIONS
Ephraim, fig. 8. Heddle of Tsimshean.
9. Heddle.
Foreman, p. 113. The Pueblo loom.
114. The shaft heddle.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Marsden (2), p. 45. A Japanese weaver.
Mason (^), fig. i. Chippewa heddle frame.
2, 3. Masquakie heddle frame and shuttle.
4. Heddle from Helsingfors, Finland.
5. Heddle and shuttle, Helsingfors, Finland.
6. Heddle and shuttle, Saalfeld, E. Prussia.
7. Heddle and shuttle, Saalfeld, E. Prussia.
8. 9. Heddles from Stettin, N. Germany.
10, II. Heddles from Siena, Italy, and Lancaster,
Penn.
WEAVING TYPES 1 53
12. Heddle frame, Bristol, Conn.
13. Heddle frame, Bristol, Conn.
14. Heddle with healds disconnected at top, Maine.
15. Sketches showing method of attaching healds,
Pueblo Indians.
16. Pueblo woman working heddle in belt weaving.
17. 18. Zuiii heddles.
19. Batten from Guadalajara, Mexico.
PL I. Zuiii woman weaving ceremonial belt.
3. Loom with heddle frame for silk braid.
6-8. Pueblo heddle frames.
9. Pueblo batten knives.
Mason (^), figs. i-io. Heddle frames.
1 1 . Pueblo woman weaving belt , working heddle.
12. Zuni woman weaving ceremonial belt.
Matthews, PL 37. Zuiii woman weaving a belt.
p. 388. Warping for belts.
389. Wooden heald of the Zuni.
Stephenson, p. 373. Wewha weaving a belt.
Watson, p. 14. Pueblo woman working heddle.
16. Zuni woman weaving belt.
17. Primitive heddles.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 9. Pueblo woman weaving.
53. Primitive heddles.
VII
ONE-SHAFT TREADLE LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Simplest weaving implement employing foot power: a
treadle loom with one suspended shaft-heddle and a
shed-rod ; crudest attached and permanently entered
154 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
batten ; the warp beam set in a rough horizontal frame
and the free cloth beam attached to a belt about weaver.
Developing shedding, battening, frame and power.
Fig. 58. — Early Korean Loom
The one-shaft heddle is crudely lifted by a toe-cord; the shuttle is passed
through open shed. When the line of weft is beaten up by the free reed-
batten the heddle will be lowered and the shed-rod will open the other shed.
Warp devices : a revolving warp beam and a free revolv-
ing cloth beam.
Weft devices : a shed-rod for first shed and a suspended
shaf t-heddle for second shed ; small hollow boat-
shaped shuttle inclosing a revolving quill for weft;
suspended swinging reed batten.
Outline
Examples : Chinese ; Japanese ; Korean (Ainu, Korean and
Indian looms show transitional forms with hand power) .
WEAVING TYPES
155
Fig. 59. — Early Chinese Loom
Another crude attachment for lifting the shaft-heddle is connected with a
treadle-slat ; reed-batten swung from a unique contrivance.
156 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Implement — One-shaft treadle loom.
1. frame (29, 29e, f).
oblong base with upright posts supporting
warp beam, heddle harness and, at times,
batten.
2. beams (19, 20, 21, 22, 22c, d).
(i) revolving warp beam attached to frame and
governed by
a. stop-boards.
h. stop-pegs.
(2) revolving cloth beam attached to weaver's belt.
3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26d).
(i) shed-rod.
a. huge round bar attached to loom.
h. flat bar, free, can be turned edgewise.
(2) shaft-heddle suspended from frame posts and
elevated by foot power with
a. cord loop over toe.
h. treadle board.
c. swinging slat-board.
4. shuttle (27, 27b, c, d).
a. needle-shuttle.
h. stick-shuttle.
c. bobbin shuttle.
5. batten (28, 28d, e).
a. free reed batten.
h. swinging reed batten.
Warping device, probably stakes (30, 30b).
Power — Hand for picking and battening (31, 31a).
Foot for moving shaft-heddle.
WEAVING TYPES 1 57
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping as in Two-shaft treadle loom.
Heddling.
1. one series of alternate warp strands passed over
shed-rod.
2. second series of alternate warp strands passed
under shed-rod, then between slats of the one
heddle-shaft.
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
1. shed-rod holds open first shed; shuttle inserts
weft through first shed ; already entered batten
beats up first line of weft.
2. shaft-heddle raised by treadle holds open second
shed ; shuttle inserts weft through second shed ;
batten beats up second line of weft.
3. process is then repeated.
Warp adjusting.
1. fresh warp unrolled from warp beam.
2. finished web wound on free cloth beam attached
to weaver's belt.
Economic Gain
Comparison here is with the Two-beam loom, the last
wide cloth type.
In production :
Introduction of foot power for the one heddle.
A permanently entered batten.
Revolving warp and cloth beams.
158 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
In product :
A longer web.
A closer, more even web of fine yarn.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
5 Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving," 66.
- Carus, P. "Chinese life and customs." (Illustration.)
- Draper, G. 0. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration.)
1 Ephriam, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas." Museum fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig, Band I, Heft I.
2 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Barlow, p. 65. Chinese silk loom.
Carus, p. 29. A Chinese loom.
Draper, p. 29. Japanese weaver.
Ephriam, fig. 43. Loom of Japan.
44. Loom of Korea.
45. Loom of China.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
VIII
TWO-SHAFT TREADLE LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
Weaving implement : a two-shaft treadle loom ; beams
outside of loom frame ; cloth beam pegged to ground,
or attached to posts, or to belt of weaver ; without warp
beam, or when with it fastened to distant post, to roof,
or high on side wall. Developing beams and frame.
WEAVING TYPES
159
i6o
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
WEAVING TYPES l6l
Warp devices : non-revolving, or revolving cloth beam ;
non-revolving warp beam, or bunched warp ends with
cord attachment.
Weft devices : two or more shaf t-heddles worked by
treadle cords; stick-shuttle, or short boat-shaped
shuttle with inner bobbin ; for battening, the stick-
batten, or a suspended reed batten.
Outline
Examples : India outdoor, and simpler indoor weaving ;
W. African coast ; Medieval Egypt.
Implement — Two-shaft treadle loom.
1. frame (29, 29e, g).
a. none, branch of overhead tree supports heddle
and batten.
b. two trees, or two high posts, between which
is a crossbar for suspending heddle and
batten.
c. four-post, or tripod frame.
2. beams, free from frame (19, 20, 21, 21b, 22, 23).
(i) cloth beam.
a. revolving, pegged to ground.
b. revolving, fastened to weaver's belt.
c. non-revolving, fastened to post.
(2) warp beam, non-revolving.
a. none, warp ends bunched, attached to
post.
b. beam attached to distant post.
c. beam fastened to ceiUng, or high on side
wall.
l62
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
WEAVING TYPES
163
3. heddles, two shaft-heddles suspended by cord
gear which connects with foot power in pit
below ground (24, 25, 26e).
a. treadle cord loops.
h. inverted halves of cocoanut shell, or bits of
bamboo sticks.
c. long wooden treadles.
4. shuttle (27, 27c, d).
a. stick-shuttle.
h. boat-shape shuttle with weft bobbin.
5. batten (28, 28b, d, f).
a. stick-batten; comb.
b. suspended reed-batten.
Fig. 63. — Stake Warping, India
Two warps are laid at one time.
Warping device (30, 30b, c).
a. row of stakes set in pairs.
h. warping frame.
Power — Hand and Foot (31, 31a).
1 64 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping, warp interlaced through and around parallel
row of stakes, or pegs, and so crossed as to
form the leases.
Beaming, Heddling.
1. warp attached to one beam.
2. one series of alternate warp strands entered
through eyelets of one heddle-shaf t, and second
series through eyelets of second shaft.
3. warp attached to second beam.
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
1. first treadle lowers first heddle, opening first
shed ; shuttle inserts weft in first shed ; batten
beats up first line of weft.
2. second treadle lowers second heddle, opening
second shed ; shuttle inserts weft in second
shed ; batten beats up second line of weft.
3. process repeated.
Warp adjusting.
1. warp let in from distant post.
2. finished web wound on cloth beam.
Economic Gain
In production : '
Foot power for both heddles.
Unified shedding device, with both sheds opened by a
like device.
The suspended reed batten of firmer, stronger con-
struction.
Fig. 64. — Egyptian Loom, Middle Ages
Revolving cloth beam, warp extended to side wall.
Fig. 65. — A Shawl Loom, Asia
Revolving cloth beam, warp extended upward to ceiling.
WEAVING TYPES 1 65
In product :
A close and even web, although fabrics from this type
are of many grades and materials.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 69.
I Banerjei, N. N.(2) "Cotton fabrics of Bengal," 46.
I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving," 60.
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra-
tion.)
1 Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Medieval Sinhalese art," 234.
- Draper, G. O. "Labor saving machines." (Illustration.)
2 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving, archaeology and art."
- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklungder Webetechnik." (Illustration.)
I Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions."
4 Garstang, J. "Burial customs of ancient Egypt."
3 Gilroy, C. G.(^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool," 342.
4 Hooper, L.(^) "Hand-loom weaving," 27, 87.
3 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and
future." (^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 3120.
(*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 19 14.
Journal of Indian Art.
1 VIII, Banerjei, N. N.(3) " Cotton fabrics of Bengal."
2 X, Brendon, B. A. "Woolen fabrics in Bombay."
I X, Dewar, F. "Silk fabrics in Central Provinces."
1 X, Edwards, S. M. "Silk fabrics in Bombay."
2 X, Entoven, R. E. "Cotton fabrics in Bombay."
I, Gupte, B. A. "Thana silks." (Illustration.)
I V, Mookerjei, N. G. " Silk industries of Moorshedabad."
I X, Silberrad, C. A. " Cotton fabrics of N. W. Provinces."
- Klose, H. "Togo." (lUustration.)
I Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving," 41, 249.
3 Mill.J. "History of British India," i ed., V. I; 2 ed., V. II;
4 ed., V.
l66 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
1 Murphy, J. "Art of weaving," I, 8; IV, io6.
- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.)
- Paulitschke, P. " Ethnographie Nordost-Afrikas." (Illustra-
tion.)
2 Powell, B. H. "Handbook of manufactures of Punjab," 36.
- Revoil, G. "Reise im Lande der Benadir, Somali und Bajun."
Globus, 47. (Illustration.)
- Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." (Illustration.)
I Simmonds, P. D. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 112, II, 207.
I Tomlinson, C. Cyclopaedia useful arts, II. "Weaving."
I Ure, A.(^) "Cotton manufacture," I, 39, II, 256.
1 Ure, A.(^) Dictionary of arts, manufactures and mines, II.
"Weaving."
4 Walton, P. "Story of textiles."
2 Walton, W. "Cotton in the Bombay Presidency," 149.
1 Watson, J. F. "Textile manufacture and customs of people of
India," 67.
2 Watson, J. "Art of weaving."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 70. Loom of India.
Banerjei (^), PL 10. Weaver at loom.
Barlow, fig. 6. Loom of India (interior).
Butterworth, p. 176, fig. 3. Hindoo loom.
Coomaraswamy.
PL 6, I Cloth- weaver separating warp threads.
6, 2 Cloth-weaver throwing shuttle.
29, I Front view of loom.
29, 2 Side view of loom.
Draper, p. 24. Hindoo weaver.
Encyclopaedia Britannica.
fig. 30. Indian Hill tribesman's loom.
Ephraim, fig. 29. Loom of Haussa.
30. Loom of the Vey. .
31. Loom of the Ehve.
WEAVING TYPES
167
Ephriam, fig. 32.
32a.
48.
Foreman, p. 115.
Garstang, p. 134.
Gilroy (2), PL 2.
5-
Globus, 47, p. 325
Hooper Q), p. 87.
Loom of Somali.
Loom of Galla.
Loom of India.
Old African loom.
Hand-loom weaving at Abu-Kirkes.
Egyptian factory.
Indian loom (interior).
. Cotton weaver in Mogduschu.
Loom of India.
Hooper (^) ('*), fig. 29. Primitive loom. (India.)
Journal Indian Art and Industry.
VIII, Banerjei, PI. 83. Weaver working at loom.
X, Brendon,
X, Dewar,
X, Edwards,
Woolen hand loom.
Beaming.
Warping.
Warping-machine.
Warping-frame.
Weaving.
Cloth loom of Bombay.
Thana silk weaver.
Weaving.
I, Enthoven,
I, Gupte,
X, Siiberrad, 14.
Klose, p. 152. A weaver of Assahun.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Marsden, p. 42. Loom of India.
43. Loom in interior.
249. Indian warper.
Murphy, Frontispiece. Loom within doors.
Murphy, I, p
III,p
Oppel, p. 208
215
565
591
595
8. Indian hand loom.
60. Weaving a Cashmere shawL
Indischer weber.
Haussa Webevorrichtung.
Malayischer Webstuhl.
Weber an der Goldkiiste.
Suaheli am Webstuhl.
Paulitschke, PL 25. Two weavers of northeast Africa.
1 68 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Powell, p. 35- Shawl loom.
Revoil, p. 327. Loom of the Somali.
Schurtz, p. 275. Weavers of the Gold coast.
410. Loom of east Africa.
Simmonds, I, 102. Outdoor loom of India.
Ure C), I, 33. Outdoor loom of India.
Walton, p. 60. Ancient Egyptian weaving.
72. Hindu weaver at his loom (exterior).
Walton, 28. The "Magga" or loom with weaver.
Watson, 64, fig. 2. Warping.
4. Applying the reed.
6. Forming the heddles.
5. Weaving Dacca muslins.
IX
PERFECTED HAND LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
First weaving • implement with its entire mechanism
united within the frame and working in unison : a
two or more shaft treadle loom with its two beams set
in ends of frame.
Warp devices : revolving warp and cloth beams.
Weft devices : two or more shaft heddles worked by
treadles ; bobbin-shuttle, fly-shuttle or drop-box-
shuttle ; stick-batten, or suspended reed-batten.
Outline
Examples : Medieval Greek ; Colonial ; French (two
weavers) ; English fly-shuttle looms.
WEAVING TYPES 1 69
Implement — Perfected hand loom.
I. frame including all working parts (29, 29e, h).
Fig. 66. — Greek Loom of Middle Ages
An early Perfected hand loom with all parts united within the frame. It
differs from the later form in its vertical warp and horizontal heddles.
a. two cross-shape side boards joined above
and below.
b. four posts joined by bars at sides and ends.
lyo YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
2. cylindrical revolving beams, warp and cloth (19,
20, 21, 21c, 22, 22d).
a. with vertical warp.
b. with horizontal warp.
Fig. 67. — Perfected Hand Loom with Fly-shuttle
A rectangular frame supports all working parts. Horizontal warp, W, extends
between the revolving warp beam, A, and the cloth beam, B ; two treadles,
T, raise and lower alternately the two shaft heddles, H, to open the warp
sheds. The swinging batten, E, beats home the weft ; while at its two
ends the shuttle-boxes, G, receive the shuttle as it is thrown from box to
box by a jerk of the black peg attached to a string loop.
heddles, two or more shaft-heddles constructed
with thread eyelets stretched between two
laths (24, 25, 26e).
a. horizontal heddles.
b. vertical heddles balanced by cords over pulleys
and attached below to treadles.
WEAVING TYPES
171
Reproduced by permission from Hooper's " Hand-loom Weaving."
Macmillan, U. S. A., and John Hogg, London-
Fig. 68. — Hand Shuttle
I, Boat-shaped shell and inside bobbin. 2, Section of shell and bobbin.
3, Spring for holding quill. 4, Bobbin, a quill with yarn wound on.
5, Side of shuttle showing center eye where yarn escapes from the shuttle.
4. treadles.
a. worked by balance weights.
h. worked by direct treading process.
Fig. 69. — Fly-shuttle
A longer, deeper, broader, heavier shuttle.
5. shuttle, revolving bobbin within boat-shape hol-
low box (27, 27d, e, f).
a. hand bobbin-shuttle.
b. fly-shuttle with wheels upon which to travel
and a shuttle-race with end boxes.
172 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
c. drop-box shuttle with tiers of end boxes which
rise and fall to bring compartments to
shuttle-race level.
6. batten C28, 28d, f, h).
a. free stick batten.
h. reed-batten set in pendulous frame, or lathe.
Warping device (30, 30c, d).
a. warping board or frame with pegs.
h. warping mill, reel and bobbin frame.
Power — Hand and Foot (31, 31a).
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping, warp threads measured off in equal lengths
and crossed to form the two leases on warping
frame or mill.
Beaming, Heddling.
1. warp ends spread across warp beam and strands
wound on, carefully preserving leases.
2. ends of alternate strands entered through eyes of
first heddle, ends of second set of alternate
strands entered through eyes of second heddle
to prepare for shedding.
3. ends of all strands entered in regular order
through reed-batten.
4. ends attached to cloth beam, stretching warp
between two beams.
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
I . foot presses down first treadle which draws down
first heddle with the first series of alternate
warp strands threaded through it, and simul-
WEAVING TYPES
173
-^Y_:^^:_:Q:_4|- ,-[}• %^fi-_
174
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Fig. 71. — Hungarian Peasant Warping
This warping reel similar in form to the mill is turned by the left hand as the
right lays on two strands at a time.
taneously raises second heddle with the second
series of alternate strands threaded through
it, thus opening the first shed. (Simpler
method, p. 164.)
WEAVING TYPES
175
hand shuttle thrown by hand through open
shed ; fly-shuttle and drop-box-shuttle driven,
by a quick jerk given the picking device,
along the shuttle-race through the open shed ;
in each instance the shuttle leaves behind a
line of weft between the divided warp.
Reproduced hy permission from Hooper's " Hand-loom Weaving."
Macmillan, U. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
Fig. 7.2. — Loom Prepared for Entering Warp through Heddles
AND Reed-batten
Entering need only be done when a harness is new ; after the first entering
the new warp strands are tied to old strands of the previous web left long
enough to still pass through the heddles and reed. For entering, the warp
coiled on the beam is gently unwound, preserving the two leases by the
rods, B. Then the slender hook, 2, draws each strand through the heddle
eyelets, D, and the flat hook, 3, between the dents of the reed, 4.
3. stick-batten is run into shed to beat up weft, or
lathe reed-batten is forcefully swung against
the line of weft just put in.
4. depression of the second treadle reverses the
order of heddles opening the second shed, and
176
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Reproduced by permisston from Hooper's " Hand-loom Weaving."
Macmillan, V. S. A., and John Hogg, London.
Fig. 73. — -Shed Opening Mechanism. Treadles and Heddles at
Work
A, warp beam; B, cloth beam; C, lease rods; D, heddle harness pulley;
E, treadles ; F, shed opened by heddles and treadles.
Fig. 74. — Hand-shuttle at Work
The shuttle is thrown from one hand to the other, leaving a line of weft through
the open shed when the reed-batten will beat close the line of weft.
Fig. 75. — Fly-shxjttle at Work
With each jerk of the peg in the right hand the shuttle flies through the open
shed to the shuttle box at the other end, leaving in its trail a line of weft.
Then the left hand, freed from helping as required by the hand-shuttle, beats
up the weft with the reed-batten.
178
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
at the same time if the drop-box-shuttle is in
use, drops or raises the end boxes so that the
shuttle desired is on a level with shuttle-race.
5. shuttle deposits another line of weft.
6. batten beats up second line of weft.
7. process is then repeated.
Adjustment of warp when some distance of web is
woven : wef ting is stopped and fresh warp is
"let off " from warp beam and woven web
" taken up " on cloth beam.
Fig. 76. — Drop-box Fly-shuttle
The shuttle here works as in Fig. 75, but there are added for shuttles of
different colored yarns two tiers of end boxes with a contrivance for raising
and lowering the boxes to bring them level with the warp shed as each
color is needed.
Economic Gain
In production :
Developed frame unites loom mechanism.
Steadier beams.
Longer web on revolving beams with " take up
" let off " motions.
and
WEAVING TYPES 179
In later varieties with fly-shuttle, a wider web and
greater speed.
In product :
More uniform texture from smooth running mechanism.
More parallel warp from perfectly stretched warp.
More even weft from refined shedding, picking and
battening devices.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving."
I Beaumont, R-C) "Wool manufacture." (Loom mounting),
IIS-
I Beaumont, R.(^) "Woollen and worsted." (Loom mounting),
325-
I Blount, Mrs. G. "Story of a homespun web."
- Brooks, C. P. "Cotton." (Illustration.)
- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." (Illustration.)
- Butter worth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra-
tion.)
1 Champlin, J. D. "Young folks' cyclopaedia of common
things."
- Clapham, J. H. "Woollen and worsted industries." (Illus-
tration.)
2 Dooley, W. H. "Textiles," 53.
- Draper, G. O. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration. )_^
- Ducousso, G. "L'industrie de la sole en Syrie et au Liban."
(Illustration.)
I Earle, A. M. "Home life in colonial days."
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving machinery, technology."
- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklungder Webetechnik." (Illustration.)
3 Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful invention," 116-119.
- Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." (Illustration.)
I Gilroy, C. G.Q) "Art of weaving."
l8o YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
- Gilroy, C. G.(^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool." (Illus-
tration.)
I Guest, R. " Cotton manufacture," 7.
I Hooper, L.^) "Hand-loom weaving," 9, 49, 224, 227.
I Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and
future."
(^) Journal of Royal Society of Arts, London, LX,
955-
(^) Rept. Smithsonian Institution 1914, 648.
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 14.
Journal Indian Art.
I X, Hardiman, J. P. "Silk in Burma."
3 X, Samman, H. F. "Cotton of Assam."
- Manchester, H. H. "The story of silk and Cheney silks."
(Illustration.)
I Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving," 27, 37, 48, 250.
- Megraw, R. H. "Textiles and the origin of their names."
(Illustration.)
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," IV, 106.
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
3 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles," 23, 76.
- Olivier, L. "La Tunisie." (Illustration.)
- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.)
I Potter, G. R. "SUk manufacture," 1831-214, 1832-180.
- Rock, D. "Textile fabrics." . (Illustration.)
I Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei."
I Simmonds, P. D. "Ure's cotton manufacture," II, 203.
I Tomlinson, C. Cyclopaedia useful arts, II. "Weaving."
I Ure, A.(^) "Cotton manufacture," II, 257.
I Ure, A.(^) "Dictionary arts, manufactures and mines," II.
(Weaving.)
r Walton, P. "Story of textiles." (Picture text, p. 130.)
I Warden, A. J. "Linen, ancient and modern," 218, 227, 700, 702.
3 Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing," 19.
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
WEAVING TYPES l8l
ILLUSTRATIONS
Barlow, p. 6i. Medieval Greek loom.
pp. 76-93. English hand loom.
Beaumont^), figs. 74-77. English hand loom.
Beaumont(^), pp. 352-359. English hand loom.
Blount, p. 17, 21, 25. Hand loom and parts.
Brooks, C. P., p. 120. Hand spinning and weaving.
Brooks, E. C, p. 56. Old time loom.
107. Weaving in Alabama.
262. Hand loom weaving in Japan.
Butterworth, p. 176, fig. 4. Hand loom.
Champlin, fig. 2. Hand cloth-loom.
3. Shuttle.
Clapham, p. 58. Irish cottage hand loom.
Dooley, p. 55. A simple hand loom.
59. Drawing warp ends through reed.
Draper, p. 25. Flemish weaver.
26. Loom as used before Kay.
26. Hand loom with fly-shuttle.
30. Old colonial loom.
Ducousso, p. 198. Tisserand en Sole Syrian.
Earl, p. 225. Loom shuttles.
238. Weaving rag carpet.
Encyclopaedia Britannica.
fig. 24. Hand loom.
25. Weaver's reed.
26. Section of plain web.
31. Medieval loom.
Ephraim, fig. 2. Type loom.
28. North African treadle loom.
29. Loom of Hausa.
30. Loom of the Vey.
31. Loom of the Ehoe.
49. Kashmir loom.
50. Treadle loom of Inner India.
I»2
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Farrer, p. 7. Medieval loom.
Foreman, p. 117. Loom of the sixteenth century.
118. Kay's fly-shuttle.
Gibbs, p. 30. Hand loom of colonial days.
Gilroy 0), pp. 75, 76. Working parts of the plain loom.
Gilroy (^), PL V. Indoor loom of India.
Guest, PL 4. Table loom, Mr. Kay's lathe shuttle.
Hooper Q). Frontispiece. Domestic loom, from a Lyonnese
woodcut, 1510.
figs. 14-2 1 a. Warping on warping board.
22-27. Warping mill.
28-38. Beaming.
39-40. Shedding.
41. Loom of India.
42. Old English loom.
44. Section of open warp.
45, 46. The reed-batten.
47. Loom prepared for entering.
50. Heddle frame.
■ 51. Hand-shuttle.
52. Method of handling one or two shuttles.
53. Fly-shuttle.
54. Fly-shuttle batten.
55. Temple.
Hooper (^) 0), fig. 30. Reed fitted in its frame.
31. Section of open warp.
32. Bethual Green silk weaver.
2,s. English hand loom.
34. English silk weaver, 14 century.
57. Fly-shuttle batten.
James, fig. 7. Medieval Greek loom.
8. Early European loom.
Journal of Indian Art, X,
Hardiman, PL 17 a. Warpirig machine.
b. Warping machine.
WEAVING TYPES 183
Hardiman, PI. 17 c. Warping on stakes.
iS b. Warping on stakes.
c. Warping frame.
d. Loom frame.
ig a. Warp ready for loom.
b. Burma loom.
c. Entering warp through reed.
Samman, PL 13 a. Weaving in Assam.
c. Loom.
Magazine. See Magazine Illustration.
Manchester, p. 16. Ancient Chinese weaving.
Marsden {^), p. 28. Greek loom.
37. Flemish loom.
38, 39. French loom.
43. Indoor loom of India.
51. Kay's fly-shuttle loom.
227. Hand-loom lay with drop-boxes.
251. Peg warping, an ancient English method.
Megraw, p. 9. A weaver.
Murphy, IV, p. 104. Ancient loom.
108. Plain loom with hand shuttle.
112. Hand loom and Scotch weaver at work.
113. Plain loom.
New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
fig. I. Hand loom.
Nystrom, p. 25. Passage of the shuttle through the warp.
214 a. Entering warp ends through reed.
b. Examining warp threads.
Olivier, p. 246. Weaving shop.
Oppel, p. 467. Spinning und Webe im Handbetrieb im Siiden.
685. Ein Webkeller im Toggenburg.
Porter (183 1), p. 215. English hand loom (1832), p. 180.
217. Fly shuttle. 182
219. Warping mill.
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Porter (1831), p. 221. Shuttle. (1832), p. 185
228. Side elevation of ribbon loom.
Rock, p. 34. Weaving and spinning in 1 5 century.
Schams Tafel 4, fig. 36. Loom frame.
35. Loom frame with extra beams for warp
and cloth.
37, 38. Another loom frame.
5, fig. 47. Reed-batten.
48 a. Batten with fly-shuttle.
48 b. Batten with drop-box shuttle.
Simmonds, p. 202.
Tomlinson, fig
Ure C), p. 256
258
259
261
262
271
Ure (2), p. 931
931
Walton, p. 16
52
68
118
124
130
147
49-51. Shuttles.
59, 60. Heddles, treadles and harness.
Ancient Greek loom.
204. German loom of 16 century.
205. Warping machine.
206. Loom of India.
208. English loom with fly-shuttle.
214. Movable shuttle-box apparatus.
2305. The common loom.
2313. Warping mill.
Ancient Greek loom.
Frankfort-on-Main weaver in 1568.
Hand- warping for the muslin- weaver.
Hindu weaver.
Common fly-shuttle loom.
Movable shuttle-box apparatus.
Indoor loom of India.
Old English loom.
Roman weaving in Middle Ages.
Japanese weaving.
Hindu weaving.
Peg warping.
Warping.
The loom that preceded the power loom.
A handicraft weaver at her loom.
Fig. 77. — Chinese Draw Loom
The warp strands stretch from the cloth beam through the swinging reed-batten ;
through the first heddle harness worked by treadles ; then through the free
leashes worked by the drawboy above ; when they pass to the warp beam
beyond the picture at the right.
WEAVING TYPES
185
Watson, p. 19. Simple colonial loom.
20. Japanese loom.
2 1 . Four-harness hand loom.
22. Colonial loom.
23. Diagram of hand loom.
24. Swedish loom.
25. Diagram of working parts of loom.
26. Fly-shuttle hand looin.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 52. Hand loom.
54
55
56
57
58
60
61
63
64
67
Healds.
Heald shaft.
Detail of harness.
Temple.
Throwing the shuttle through the shed.
Raddle.
Reed.
Warping bars.
Taking off the warp.
Fly-shuttle.
X
DRAW LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
First mechanism for elaborate figured weaving : one
operating a compound system of shedding on the same
warp strands ; the system applied to the Perfected
hand loom.
Weft device for shedding : two separate shedding systems
with distinct functions — • a shaft mounting worked
by treadles for forming the pattern edges ; and a
drawboy mounting or harness with tails and simples
1 86 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
worked by the drawboy for forming the texture of
the web.
D 0
Fig. 79. — Diagram Showing Action of Two Harness Systems
A, Work accomplished by first harness which outlines on a large scale the
pattern. B, Work accomplished by second harness which breaks up this
pattern in detail.
Outline
Examples : Chinese draw loom ; French draw loom.
Implement — Draw loom.
1. frame (29, 29e, i).
2. beams (19, 20, 21c, 22, 22d). 1 Similar to the
4. shuttle (27, 27d, e). \ Perfected
5. batten (28d, 28f). • J hand loom.
3. shedding mechanism (24, 26e, f).
(i) front harness of shaft heddles with long eyes.
(2) back harness of free heddling strings
(managed by assistant),
leashes with lingoes, hangers, mails,
sleepers.
WEAVING TYPES
187
comber board (hole board).
necking cords.
pulley box.
tail cords.
simple cords on which pattern is tied up.
1 88 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Power — Hand and Foot, weaver (31, 31a, b).
Hand, drawboy assistant.
Process — Loom mounting.
Warping, Beaming similar to the Perfected hand loom.
Heddling, warp strands entered through both shedding
systems : the shaf t-heddles and the free heddling
strings.
Wefting.
Shedding.
1. weaver with treadles operates shaf t-heddles for
outlining pattern.
2. drawboy adjusts string-heddles for web texture.
Picking, Battening, as on Perfected hand loom.
Economic Gain
Comparison here is with the many-shaft loom of the
previous type used in elaborate pattern weaving.
In production :
Less floor space needed for free leashes.
A loss in production because of more elaborate fabric.
In product :
Elaborate pattern of fine texture.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving."
1 Bell, T. F. " Jacquard weaving and designing."
- Bushell, S. W. "Chinese art," II, 95. (Illustration.)
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.)
2 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving machinery."
I Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas."
WEAVING TYPES
189
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YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
WEAVING TYPES 191
2 Gilroy, C. G. C) "Art of weaving."
- Gilroy, C. G. {^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool." (Il-
lustration.)
- Heiden, M. " Handworterbuch der Textilkunde." (Illustra-
tion.)
I Hooper, L.(^) "Hand-loom weaving."
I Hooper, L.(2) "Silk."
1 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and
future."
(^) Journal of Royal Society of Arts, London, LX.
('') Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
- Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." (Illustration.)
2 Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving," 184.
1 Mookerji, W. S. "Silk industries of Moorshedabad." Indian
Jour. Art, V, p. 7. "Naksha loom."
2 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," IV, 140.
- Pariset, E. "Industries de la soie." (Illustration.)
3 Simmonds, P. L. "Cotton manufacture," II, 222.
3 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II, 281.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Barlow, p. 129. Diagram of shedding process.
130. Healds.
131. Mechanism of draw loom.
132. Comber board.
135. Mechanical drawboy.
138. French draw loom for velvet figured damask.
BeU, fig. 2. Draw loom with simples over weaver.
■3. Draw loom harness.
5. Mechanical drawboy.
Butterworth, p. 178, fig. i. Primitive draw loom.
Encyclopaedia Britannica.
fig. 32. Chinese loom for figured weaving, 121 a.d.
Ephraim, fig. 51. Chinese draw loom.
Gilroy (}), fig. 63. Draw loom harness.
192
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Gilroy, C), fig. 64. Pulley box.
65. Shedding process of draw loom.
66. Comberboard.
GUroy (2).
Frontispiece. Chinese draw looms.
Heiden, p.
263. Draw loom factory.
Hooper Q)
p. 239. Drawboy machine.
240. Details of drawboy.
2 53 . Diagram of monture and harness, point repeat
256. Comber repeat.
258. Mechanism of the draw-loom.
263. Draw-loom fork.
Hooper (^)
p. 74. Chinese draw-loom.
Hoopel- (^) (^), fig. 35. Chinese silk- weavers' loom.
44
Chinese draw-loom.
45
Draw-loom diagrams.
46
Drawboy's fork.
47
Mechanical drawboy.
Murphy, IV, p. 141. Draw-loom harness.
Pariset, p.
256. Chinese draw loom.
281. Chinese draw loom.
234. Beaming silk warp.
235. Warping.
Simmonds
p. 223. Harness of draw loom.
Ure, p. 28;
5. Harness of draw loom.
XI
JACQUARD HAND LOOM
Distinctive Characteristics
The most universally employed mechanism for elaborate
pattern making: a shedding attachment which sim-
pHfies the complex mechanism of the Draw loom with
WEAVING TYPES
193
its extensive tie-up and drawboy ; it was first adjusted
to the hand loom and later to the power loom.
Fig. 83. — ^Jacquard Hand Loom, 1804
A hand loom mounted with a hook and needle harness worked by an endless
band of pattern cards for elaborate pattern weaving.
Weft device for shedding : an endless band of pattern
cards worked with a hook and needle harness.
Outline
Example : Jacquard hand loom.
Implement — Jacquard mechanism attached to hand loom.
1. frame (29, 29e, i).
2. beams (19, 20, 21, 21c, 22, 22d). j Similar to Per-
4. shuttle (27, 27d, e, f). \ fected hand
5. batten (28, 28d, f). J loom.
194
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
b'iG. 84. — Jacquard Mechanism
A series of vertical hooks {H) connect with the heddles of the loom. These are
raised according to a pattern punctured on pattern cards (PC) by a series
of horizontal needles (N) attached to them at their points of crossing.
When the pattern cards press back certain horizontal needles they carry
the hooks with them beyond the griff (G). This allows the grifi to rise
and carry up the remaining hooks which raise the heddles.
WEAVING TYPES
shedding apparatus
placed on top
of loom to
take the
place of the
drawboy and
pulley-box
(24,26e,f,g).
(i) shaft-heddles.
(2) string-heddles.
endless chain
of perforated
pattern
cards,
revolving prism
or cylinder
which swings.
series of hori-
zontal needles
with eyelets,
n-eedle board,
series of verti-
cal hookspass-
ing through
needles and
controlled by
them,
bottom board,
griff,
necking cords.
A
Fig. 85. — The Jacquard
AT Work
Action of horizontal needle
on vertical hook when it
is pushed back by pattern
card. The needle carries
the hook off the griff.
196 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
leash, or leash strings with mails and lingoes.
comber board.
Power — Hand and Foot (31, 31a).
Process — Shedding.
1. pattern card passed over cylinder and pressed
against needles.
2. blank spaces on cards push back certain needles,
giving attached hooks an incKnation.
3. griff rises, carrying up hooks remaining vertical.
4. rising hooks carry up leash cord with warp strand
it controls.
5. cyHnder bearing pattern card moves away and
turns one fourth revolution, while springs
return needles to normal position.
Economic Gain
In production :
Less time for simpler " tie-up " of shedding mechanism,
More rapid weaving possible.
Less floor space needed.
One worker instead of two.
In product :
Still more elaborate pattern.
Greater width of web.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1 Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving."
2 Beaumont, R.^) "Wool manufacture."
2 Beaumont, R.O "Woollen and worsted."
1 Bell, T. F. "Jacquard weaving and designing."
2 Brockett, P. L. "Silk industry in the United States," 109.
WEAVING TYPES 1 97
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.)
3 Cowan, J. L. "Story of silk." Scientific American Supp.,
April 23, 19 10.
- Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
I Encyclopaedia Britannica, "Weaving, Industrial technology."
- Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions." (Illustration.)
I Fox, T. W. "The mechanism of weaving," 129-145.
- Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." (Illustration.)
3 Gilroy, C. G.(i) "Art of weaving."
4 Hooper, L. (2) "Silk."
1 Hooper, L. "Loom and spindle."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.
(*) Rept. Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
- Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." (Illustration.)
2 Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving," 148.
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," V, 54-60.
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
- Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
- Pariset, E. "Industries de la sole." (Illustration.)
I Porter, G. R.(0 "Silk manufacture," 1831, 245.
I Porter, G. R.(^) Same as above but 1832 edition, 201.
- Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." (Illustration.)
5 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 97.
I Warden, A. J. "Linen, ancient and modern," 707.
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles."
ILLUSTRATIONS
Barlow, fig. 130-131. Action of hooks.
140-142. Action of cylinder.
143. Jacquard loom (hand loom).
Beaumont Q), fig. 87-91. Jacquard machine and parts.
Beaumont (^) 242-247. Jacquard machine and parts,
Brockett, p. 108. The Jacquard machine.
Butterworth, p. 178, fig. 2. Jacquard hand loom.
fig. 4. Jacquard power loom, 1842.
198 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Cowan, p. 264, 265. Jacquard loom.
265. Warping machine.
Dooley, p. 187. Jacquard silk loom.
Encyclopaedia Britannica, fig. 27. Diagram of Jacquard harness.
Foreman, p. 121. Jacquard loom.
Fox, fig. 58. Single lift Jacquard machine. •
Gibbs, p. 35. Jacquard power loom.
Hooper (^) {*), fig. 49. Jacquard machine.
50. Sections of Jacquard machine.
51. Hooks and needles.
53. Jacquard cylinder and cards.
Lindner, p. 154. Jacquard machine and harness.
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration.
Marsden, p. 151. Jacquard harness.
153. Jacquard harness for handkerchiefs.
Murphy, V, p. 56. Jacquard mechanism.
86. Harness of Jacquard.
86. Pressure Jacquard weaving mill.
New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
fig. 4. Jacquard attachment.
Nystrom, p. 28. Jacquard loom.
Pariset, p. 271. Hooks and needles.
274. Jacquard machine.
Porter 0), p. 246. Jacquard harness (^) 202.
247. Needle 202.
248. Cylinder 203.
248. Pattern card 204.
250. Mechanism in action 205.
Schams, Taf. 19. Jacquard loom and loom parts.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 73. Jacquard power loom.
75. Jacquard harness.
76. Cylinder and pattern card.
77. Lacing of cards.
WEAVING TYPES
XII
PLAIN POWER LOOM
199
Fig. 86. — Cajrtwright's First Power Loom, 1785
A loom with vertical warp. The web wound gradually as it was woven.
The
shuttle was propelled mechanically through the long trough-shaped form
extending out at the sides.
Distinctive Characteristics
First weaving machine : a loom run by power and so
adjusted that beams, heddles, shuttles and batten
work automatically and in unison.
200
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Warp devices : cloth and warp beams that automatically
" take on " cloth and " let off " warp.
Weft devices: shaft-heddles that automatically open
sheds ; shuttles that automatically insert weft and a
reed-batten that automatically beats up weft.
Fig. 87. — Cartwright's Second Power Loom, 1786
A frame of yam bobbins served in place of a warp beam. The lathe or slay
is reversed to oscillate from below.
Outline
Example : Roberts' power loom.
Implement — power loom.
1. frame, solid square structure of iron (29, 29e, i).
2. beams.
(i) warp beam with pulley, cord and weight
attachment for automatic "let off" (19,
20, 21, 21c, 22, 22d, e).
WEAVING TYPES
20I
(2) warp roller.
(3) cloth beam with toothed wheel, pinion and
ratchet wheel for automatic " take on."
(4) breast beam.
heddle-shaf ts suspended from pulleys and worked
from below by tappets and levers. (Other
looms may use dobbie) (24, 25, 26e).
Fig.
Working Parts of Power Loom
Left, doth beam, breast beam. Center, reed-batten oscillating from below ;
four shaft-heddles two down two up opening shed. Right, warp beam.
4-
5-
6.
7-
bobbin-shuttle thrown by levers (27, 27d, e, f).
batten with shuttle-race, shuttle-boxes and
pickers is swung from below (28, 28d, g).
driving gear,
stop motion devices.
202
YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Power — Steam (31, 31c).
Process — Loom mounting (30, 30e).
Warping, Beaming — ■ by mill and frame.
Heddling — warp entered by hand.
Fig. 89. — • Roberts' Loom, Side Elevation, 1830
The warp passes from warp beam (/), over roller (K), through heddles (L),
through reed of batten (H) ; here the cloth continues over breast beam and
is rolled upon cloth beam (A'').
WEAVING TYPES 203
Wefting.
Shedding, Picking, Battening.
These processes proceed as in the Drop-box-shuttle
hand loom, but automatically and in uni-
son, with an additional automatic beam
motion, and stop weaving motion.
Economic Gain
In production :
Introduction of steam power.
Automatic and continuous shedding, picking, batten-
ing and " letting-off " and " taking-on " motions.
In product :
Uniformly even and perfect web.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture." (Illustration.)
I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving."
I Beaumont, R-C) "Wool manufacture." (Modern loom.)
I Beaumont, R.(^) "Woollen and worsted." (Modern loom.)
- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton."
- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra-
tion.)
- Chamberlain, J. F. "How we are clothed." (Illustration.)
- Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.)
- Draper, G. 0. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration.)
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving machinery."
- Falcot, P. "Encyclopedic et methodique de la fabrication des
tissus." (Illustration.)
- Farrar, F. A. " Factories and great industries." . (Illustration.)
4 Foreman, S. E. "Stories of usefiil inventions."
I Fox, T. W. "The mechanism of weaving."
I Gilroy, C. G.Q) "Art of weaving," p. 345.
204 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
3 Heylin, H. B. "The cotton weaver's hand book."
- Hooper, L. "Loom and spindle." (Illustration.)
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.
{*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914.
- Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weber ei." (Illustration.)
I Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving."
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," IV.
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
I Simmonds, P. L. "Cotton manufacture."
I Tomlinson, C. " Cyclopedia useful arts," II. "Weaving."
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture."
- Walton, P. "The story of textiles." (Illustration.)
I Warden, A. J. "Linen trade, ancient and modern," 712.
- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing."
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles," 70.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Baines, p. 234. Power loom.
239. Power loom weaving.
Barlow, p. 230. The first power loom.
232. Barbar's loom.
236. Cartwright's second loom.
239, 240. Horrocks's loom.
245 a. Almond's loom.
245 b. Radcliff's loom.
Beaumont (}), p. 207. Shedding motion. Tappet loom.
216. Shedding, vertical lever Dobbie.
Beaumont (^), p. 331. Combined warping, sizing, and beaming
machine.
394. Shedding motion. Tappet loom.
406. Shedding, vertical lever Dobbie.
423. Shedding, ordinary Dobbie.
Brooks, p. 57. Modern loom.
Butterworth, p. 176, figs. 5-8. Power loom.
Chamberlain, p. 77. The woolen loom.
WEAVING TYPES 205
Dooley, p. 112. Fancy cotton loom.
Draper, p. 28. Roberts' loom.
Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving."
fig. 28. Vertical section of power loom.
Falcot, PI. Ill, IV. Warping.
V, VI. Beaming.
VIII. Preserving sheds.
Farrar, p. 21. Early power loom.
Gilroy 0), pp. 346, 347, 348. Roberts' loom.
Heylin, p. 5. Ready for heddling.
8. Tappet loom.
II. Tappet shedding.
Hooper (^) (^), fig. 58. Cartwright's second machine loom.
Horrocks's machine loom.
Almond's loom.
Austin's machine loom.
Modern silk loom.
Whalley's circular machine loom.
Section of WhaUey's loom.
59-
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
Lindner, p. 145. Loom room.
147. Power loom.
148, 149, 150. Diagrams of power looms.
151. Shaft apparatus, Chain for shaft working.
152. Crompton's shaft apparatus.
153. Power loom.
Marsden (^), p. 61. Cartwright's first power loom, 1785.
64. Cartwright's second loom and details, 1876.
74, 75, 76. Roberts' loom.
78. Roberts' loom shuttle.
Murphy, IV, pp. 172, 173. Sharp and Roberts' power loom.
174. Complete power loom.
New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
fig. 2. Power loom.
3. Northrop loom.
Simmonds, pp. 230, 231, 232. Sharp and Roberts' power loom.
2o6 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING
Simmonds, p. 233. Power loom shuttle.
Tomlinson, fig. 2321. Working parts of power loom.
Ure, pp. 292, 293, 294. Sharp and Roberts' power loom.
296. Power loom shuttle.
Walton, p. 92. Cartwright's loom.
238. A modern weave room.
244. Modern automatic looms.
Watson, p. 68. Plain power loom.
Woolman and McGowan.
p. 68. Power loom.
79. Power loom with drop boxes and dobby attachment.
APPENDIX A
GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY
Andree, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas." 1904.
Baines, E. " Cotton manufacture." 1835.
Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, II. 1874.
Banerjei, N. N.^) "Woollen fabrics of Bengal." 1899.
Banerjei, N. N.(2) "Cotton fabrics of Bengal." 1898.
Banerjei, N. N.(^) Same as above in Journal Indian Art,
VIII.
Barker, A. F. "Textiles." 1910.
Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 1879.-
Bartlett, J. R. "Personal narratives," II. 1854.
Beaumont, R.C) "Wool manufacture." 1890.
Beaumont, R.(^) "WooUen and worsted." 1915.
Bell, T. F. " Jacquard weaving and designing." 1895.
Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of a home spun web." 1913.
Boas, F.(^) "Indians of British Columbia." Rept. British Asso.
Adv. Science, 1890.
Boas, F.(2) "Kwakiutl Indians." Mem. American Museum, V,
Pt. II.
Braulik, A. " Altagyptische Weberei." Dingler's polytech.
Journal, No. 311. (Illustration.)
Brockett, P. L. "Silk industry in the United States." 1876.
Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." 1911.
Brooks, C. P. "Cotton." 1898. (Illustration.)
Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 1899.
Burton, F. R. '-'Ultima Thule ; or, A summer in Iceland." 1875.
BusheU, S. W. " Chinese art," II. (Illustration.)
Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." 1892.
207
2o8 APPENDIX A
Cailliaud, F. "Recherchessurles arts et metiers." 1831. (Illus-
tration.)
Carter, H. R. "Modern flax, hemp and jute spinning." 1907.
Carter, H. R. . "Spinning and twisting long vegetable fibers,"
1904.
Carus, P. "Chinese life and customs." 1907. (Illustration.)
Cavendish, A. C. J. "Korea and the sacred white mountain."
1894. (Illustration.)
Chamberlain, J. F. "How we are clothed." 1904. (Illustration.)
Champlin, J. D. "Young folks' cyclopedia of common things."
1908.
ChampoUion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte," IV. 1835.
(Illustration.)
Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade." 1904.
Chase and Clow. "Stories of industries," II. 1909. (Illustra-
tion.)
Clapham, J. H. "The woollen and worsted industries." 1907.
(Illustration.)
Cole, F. C. "Bagobos of Davas gulf." Philippine Jour. Science.
D. 6, 191 1. (Illustration.)
Coles, F. R. "Scottish spindles." Reliquary and lUus. Archae-
ologist, V, (Illustration.)
Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art." 1908.
Cowan, J. L. "Story of silk." Scientific American Sup., April
23, 1910.
Crawford, M. D. C.(i) "Peruvian textiles." Am. Museum An-
thropological Papers, XII, 3.
Crawford, M. D. C.{^) "Master weavers of the desert empire."
Harpers, July, 1916.
Cyclopedia of textile work. 1907.
Davies, N. de G. "Five Theban tombs." 1913. (Illustration.)
Dellenbaugh, F. S. "North Americans of yesterday." 1901.
Dewar, J. C. "Voyage to Nyanza, Salomon Islands." (Illus-
tration.)
Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." 1910.
APPENDIX A 209
Draper, G. O. "Labor saving looms." 1907. (Illustration.)
Du Chaillu, P. B. "A journey to Ashangoland, W. Africa." 1867.
Ducousso, G. "L'industrie de la sole en Syria et au Liban."
1913. (Illustration.)
Earl, A. M. "Home life in colonial days." 1913.
Edge-Partington. "Album of weapons, tools and ornaments of
natives of Pacific Island," I. 1890. (Illustration.)
Emery, M. S. "How to enjoy pictures." 1898. (Illustration.)
Emmons, G. T. "The Chilkat blanket." American Museum,
Mem. III.
Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning," "Weaving," "Cotton
manufacture," "Woolen and worsted."
Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu-
ropas." Mus. fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig, Band I, Heft I.
(Illustration.)
Erman, A. "Life in ancient Egypt." 1894.
Falcot, P. "Encyclopedia et methodique de la fabrication des
tissus." 1844. (Illustration.)
Farrar, F. A. "Factories and great industries." 1916. (Illus-
tration.)
Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions." 1915.
Forrer, R. ReaUexikon. "Webstuhl," "Webstuhlgewicht,"
"Gewebe," "Spindln." 1907. (Illustration.)
Fox, T. W. "Mechanism of weaving." 1900.
Garnett, A. "Hand spinning." 1896.
Garstang, J. "Burial customs of ancient Egypt." 1907.
General guide to American Museum Natural History. 19 16.
(Illustration) .
Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 191 2.
Gibbs, G. "Tribes of west Washington and northwest Oregon."
Contributions to N. A. Ethnology, I.
Gilroy, C. G.(i) "Art of weaving." 1844.
Gilroy, C. G.{^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool." 1845.
Goddard, P. E.(^) "Indians of the Southwest." American Mus.
Handbook 2, 1913.
2IO APPENDIX A
Goddard, P. E.(2) "Navajo blankets." American Mus. Journal,
Nov. 1910.
Gosse, A. B. "The civilization of ancient Egyptians." 191 5.
(Illustration.)
Guest, R. "Cotton-manufacture." 1823.
Guide to Anthropological collections, Provincial Mus., Victoria,
B. C. 1909.
Hamilton, A. "Maori art." New Zealand Institute. 1901.
Handbook of American Indians. "Weaving." Bureau Arn. Eth-
nology, Bull. 30, II.
Handbook of ethnographical collections, British Museum. 1910.
Heiden, M. " Handworterbuch der Textilkunde." 1904. (Il-
lustration.)
Heylin, H. B. "The cotton weaver's handbook." 1916.
Hitchcock, R. "The Ainos of Yezo." National Mus. Report,
1890.
Hoffman, W. J. "The Menomonee Indians." 14 Rept. Bureau
Am. Ethnology.
HoUister, U. S. "The Navajo and his blanket." 1903.
Holmes, W. H.(i) "Prehistoric textile fabrics in U. S." 3 Rept.
Bureau Am. Ethnology.
Holmes, W. H.(^) "Prehistoric textile art of eastern U. S." 13
Rept. Bureau Am. Ethnology.
Holmes, W. H.(^) "Textile fabrics of ancient Peru." Report
Bu. Am. Ethnology. 1889.
Hooper, 'L.Q) "Hand-loom weaving." 1910.
Hooper, L.(2) "Silk." 1911.
Hooper, L. " The loom and spindle : past, present and future."
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX.
(*) Report Smithsonian Institution. 1914.
Hooper, L.(^) "Technique of Greek and Roman weaving."
Burlington Mag. 18, 191 1.
Horner collection, Belfast Municipal Museum. "Spinning
Wheels." 1909.
Homiman Museum handbook, 11.
APPENDIX A 211
Hunter, J. A. "Wool." 1912.
Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana." 1883.
James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers." 1914.
James, J. "History of worsted manufacture." 1857.
Jannasch, R. "Die Textilindustrie bei Ur- und Naturvolkern."
Berliner GeseUschaft fiir Anthropologie, XX. s. 88.
Jochelson, W. "The Koryak." American Mus. Mem. X.
Journal of Indian Art.
VIII, Banerjei, N. N. "Cotton fabrics of Bengal."
X, Brandon, B. A. "Woolen fabrics of Bombay."
X, Dewar, F. "Silk fabrics, Central Provinces."
X, Edwards, S. M. "Silk fabrics of Bombay."
X, Enthoven, R. E. " Cotton fabrics of Bombay."
I, Gupte, B. A. "Thana silks."
X, Hardiman, J. P. " SHk of Burma."
V, Mookerji, N. G. "Silk industries of Moorshedabad."
X, Samman, H. F. "Cotton of Assam."
X, Silberrad, C. A. "Cotton of Northwestern Provinces."
Kane, P. "Wanderings." 1859.
Keller, F. " The lake dwellers of Switzerland." 1878.
Kimakowicz-Winnicki. "Spinn- und Webewerkzeuge in vorge-
schichtlicher Zeit Europas." Darstellungen iiber friih und
vorgeschichtliche Kultur-Kunst und Volkerentwicklung, 2
Heft. (Illustration.)
Kissell, M. L.O) "Aboriginal weaving in America." Rept.
Cotton Manuf. Asso. 1910. (Illustration.)
Kissell, M. L.(2) "A new type of spinning in North America."
American Anthropologist, 18, No. 2, April, 1916.
Kissell, M. L.(^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep-
aration.)
Klose, H. "Togo." 1899. (Illustration.)
Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler." 1859-1860. (Illustration.)
Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." 1913.
Manchester, H. H. "The story of silk and Cheney silks." 1916.
(Illustration.)
212 APPENDIX A
Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton spinning." 1891.
Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving." 1905.
Mason, O. T.(i) "Origin of inventions." 1901.
Mason, O. T.(^) "Woman's share in primitive culture." 1894.
Mason, O. T.(^) "A primitive frame for weaving narrow fabrics."
Rapt. Nat. Mus., 1899.
Mason, O. T.('*) Same article in Scientific American Sup. 51, sup.
1324.
Maspero, G.C) "Manual of Egyptian archaeology." 1902.
Maspero, G.(^) "Dawn of civilization in Egypt and Chaldaea."
1894. (Illustration.)
Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bureau Am. Eth-
nology.
McLaren, W. S. B. "Spinning woollen and worsted." 1893.
Megraw, R. H. "Textiles and the origin of their names." 1906.
(Illustration.)
MiU, J. "History of British India," i edition, V. I ; 2 edition,
V. II ; 4 edition, V. 181 7-1848.
Miller, M. L. "The Mangyans of Mindora." Philippine Jour.
Science D. 7, 191 2.
Montelius, O. "Civilization of Sweden in heathen times." Tr,
1888.
Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning." 1836.
Morris and Wilkinson. "Elements of cotton spinning."' 1897.
Mundorf, E. "Die Appretur der WoU- und Halbwollwaren."
1912.
Miintz, E.(i) "Short history of tapestry." Tr. 1885. (Illus-
tration.)
Muntz, E.(2) "La tapisserie." 1883.
Miintz, E.(3) "Tapisseries." 1890. (Illustration.)
Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II, III, IV, V. 191 2.
Nasmith, J. "Student's cotton spinning." 1896.
Nelson, E. W. "The Eskimo." 18 Rept. Bu. American Eth-
nology, Pt. I.
Newberry, P. C. "Beni Hassan," I, II. 1893. (Illustration.)
APPENDIX A 213
Newberry, P. C. " El Bersheh," I. 1895. (Illustration.)
New International Encyclopedia. "Looms."
Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." 1916.
Olivier, L. "La Tunisie." 1899. (Illustration.)
Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." 1902. (Illustration.)
Pariset, E. "Industries de la sole." 1890. (Illustration.)
Paiilitschke, P. " Ethnographic Nordost-Afrikas." 1893. (Illus-
tration.)
Peake, R. J. "Cotton." 1910.
PenhaUow, D. P. "Fabrication of Aino cloth." Scientific Am.
Sup., No. 244.
Pepper, G. H. "The making of the Navajo blanket." Every-
body's Mag., Jan. 1902.
Perrot and Chipiez. "A history of art in ancient Egypt." Tr.
1883.
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.)
Pinckerton, J. "Voyages and travels," I. 1808.
Porter, G. R. " Silk manufacture." 1831, 1832.
Powell, B. H. "Handbook of manufactures and arts of Punjab."
1872.
Priestman, H. "Principles of cotton spinning." 1908.
Radcliffe, J. W. "Manufacture of woollen and worsted yarn."
1913-
Ratzel, F. "History of mankind," II. Tr. 1896-98. (Illustration.)
Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist, V, 80.
Revoil, G. "Reise in Lande der Benadir, Somali und Bajun."
Globus. 47. (Illustration.)
Rock, D. "Textile fabrics." 1876. (Illustration.)
Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." 1910. (Illustration.)
Ronchaud, L. de. "La tapisserie." 1884. (Illustration.)
Rosellini, I. "Monumenti," II. 1834. (Illustration.)
Roth, H. L.(i) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." Bankfield
Museum Notes, Second series, No. 2.
Roth, H. L.(^) "Studies in primitive looms." Part I. Bank-
field Museum Notes, Second series. No. 8.
214 APPENDIX A
Roth, H. L.(') "Studies in primitive looms." Part II. Bank-
field Museum Notes, Second series, No. 9.
Roth, H. L.C) " Natives of Sarawak." 1896.
Russell, F. "The Pima Indians." 26 Report Bureau Am.
Ethnology.
Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." 1900.
Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." 1900. (Illustration.)
Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture." 1861.
Smith, W. Dictionary Greek and Roman antiquities. "Tela."
1870.
Smith, Wayte and Marindin. Diet. Greek and Roman antiquities.
"Tela." 1891.
Starr, L. B. "Ancient and modern looms." Art and Decoration,
1911, 2, 208.
Stevenson, M. "Zuni Indians." 23 Rept. Bureau American
Ethnology.
Swan, J. G. "Indians of Cape Flattery." Smithsonian Contribu-
tions, XVI.
Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning." 1911.
Teit, J. "Shuswap Indians." American Museum, Mem. IV, Pt.
VII.
Thomson, W. G. "History of tapestry." 1906.
Thornley, T. "Cotton spinning." 1901.
Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crop." 1915.
Tomlinson, C. Cyclopedia useful arts, II. "Weaving." 1854.
"Tops, A new American industry." Arlington MiUs, Lawrence,
Mass. 1898. (Illustration.)
Tylor, E. B. "Anthropology." 1904.
Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture." 1836.
Ure, A. Dictionary arts, manufactures, mines, II. "Weaving."
1862.
Vickermann, C. "Woolen spinning." 1894.
Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 1912.
Walton, W. "History of cotton of Bombay Presidency." 1880.
Warden, A. J. "Linen trade, ancient and modern." 1864.
APPENDIX A 215
Watson, J. "Art of weaving." 1864.
Watson, J. F. " Textile manufactures and costumes of people of
India." 1866.
Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." 1907, 1916.
Weeden, W. B. "The art of weaving." Rept. Am. Historical
Association. 1902.
Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant." 1899.
Wilkinson, J. G. "Ancient Egyptians." 1837, 1879. (Illus-
tration.)
Willoughby, C. C. "New type of ceremonial blanket." Am.
Anthropologist, XII, No. i.
Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 1913.
Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes of northern Luzon."
Philippine Journal of Science, I. 1906.
Zipser, J. "Raw textile materials." 1901.
APPENDIX B
MAGAZINE ILLUSTRATIONS
Compiled with the assistance of Anna la Tourette Blauvelt.
Note. — i = best examples. F = famous paintings.
Spinning I
National Geographical Magazine.
I V. 23, Sept. 1912, p. 914. Young Bontoc Igorot girl spin-
ning.
Spinning III
National Geographical Magazine.
V. 15, Aug. 1904, p. 345. Indian woman spinning, S. W.
Mexico.
Indian woman spinning, Mound
builders.
Girl spinning, Tinguianes, Phil-
ippines.
Woman of Tiahuanoco, Peru.
Native spinner of Tunis.
Lacondone women spinning
cotton.
P- 345-
16, Apr. 1905, p. 163.
19, Sept. 1908, p. 601.
I
22, Sept. 1911, p. 804.
I
25, June 1914, p. 628.
Everybody's Magazine.
V. 6, Jan. 1902, p. 38.
Records of the Past,
slide and print, No. 4500,
Navaho woman spinning.
Indian woman spinning and
weaving.
216
APPENDIX B
217
Spinning IV
F Angelo, Michael.
F Millet, Jean Frangois.
Records of the Past.
slide and print, No. 379.
National Geographical Mag-
azine.
V. 17, Mar. 1906, p. 145.
I 19, Nov. 1908, p. 768.
20, Aug. 1909, p. 780.
I 25, Mar. 1914, p. 299.
25, Mar. 1914, p. 313.
I 28, Oct. 1915, p. 370.
28, Nov. 191 5, p. 473.
30, Nov. 1916, p. 107.
30, Sept. 1916, p. 198.
31, June 1917, p. 563.
F Simmons, Edward.
The Three Fates.
orig. Pitti Palace, Florence.
repro. 375 Brown's Famous
Pictures.
The Spinner.
562 Cosmos Picture Co.
562 University Prints.
Girl Spinning.
1362 Brown's.
505 Perry Pictures.
Gypsy spinning as she goes
along the road, Asia Minor.
Slave spinning.
Bulgarian woman spinning as
she walks to town.
Cretan woman spinning.
A spinning woman. Holy Land
(colored).
Man spinning in Jerusalem
(colored).
Roumanian woman with spindle.
Distaff spinner of Gourdin,
France.
Domestic scene, Sardinia, So.
Europe.
Roumanian girls making thread.
The Hungarian gypsy mother.
The Three Fates.
New York Criminal Court
House.
Copley Prints.
2l8
APPENDIX B
Underwood and Underwood.
Stereograph and slide, Nega- Home duties of the Hopi In-
tive, No. 6178. dians, Ariz.
F Unknown Artist, Dutch, Old Woman holding distaflf.
XVII Cent. Soule Art Co.
Spinning V
F Breton, Mme. Demont.
Country Life.
July 1903, p. 199.
I Dec. 1905, p. 864.
Craftsman.
Jan. 1902, p. 47.
The Divine Apprentice.
Salon, 1897.
L'lUustration, Apr. 1879.
1669, Brown's.
Product of Kentucky mountain
spinner.
Irish peasant spinnet.
Girl spinning on wool wheel,
Kentucky.
An Aran woman and her wheel.
Harper's Magazine.
May 1910, p. 894.
International Studio
V. 58, Apr. 1916, p. LVII. Types of spinning wheels.
Illustrated London News Supplement.
Oct. 20, 1855, p. 474.
Keystone View Co.
Stereograph, No. 14752.
13496.
13497-
F Liebermann, Max.
Spinning.
Native silk spinning plant,
Japan.
Carding and spinning wool,
Telemarken.
Spinning in Telemarken.
Flax spinning in Laren.
National Gallery, Berlin.
Century Mag. frontispiece,
July 1905.
APPENDIX B 219
Mcintosh Stereopticon Co.
Slide No. E 1047.9. Tibetan man spinning wool.
Modern Mexico.
July 1904, p. 21. Mexican spinner.
National Geographical Magazine.
V. 16, Apr. 1905, p. 182. Ilocanos spinning cotton, Phil-
ippines.
17, Mar. 1906, p. 145. Moorish woman at spinning
wheel.
20, Feb. 1909, p. 190. Spinner of Asia Minor.
22, Aug. 191 1, p. 711. Dyak girl spinning, Borneo.
Records of the Past.
slide and print, No. 11027. Silk spinning.
Scientific American Supplement.
V. 40, Oct. 1895, sup. no. Fig. 5. Spinning the tussah.
1033
53, June 1902, sup. no. Fig. 8. Spinning istle by hand.
1382
F Velasquez, Diego Rodriguez. Tapestry weavers (las Hilan-
deras) .
Mus. of Prado, Madrid.
664 Perry.
Rhine Prints (colored).
Spinning VI
F Brekelenkam, Quiryn. Camp, the spinner.
Metropolitan Museum, N. Y.
Met. Mus. Photo.
F Barse, George R. Priscilla spinning.
1444 Brown's.
Craftsman.
V. I, Jan. 1902, p. 25. • Flax wheel and loom from old
cut.
p. 29. Flax wheels.
F Davey, Randall. The courtship (J. Alden and
Priscilla) .
1634 Brown's.
220
APPENDIX B
F Gay, Walter. The spinners (les fileuses),
Irish spinner.
Hull House Mus. postals,
Chicago.
Illustrated London News Supplement.
Aug. 26, 1905, p. 305,
Figs. 4, 5-
Dec. 2, 1871, p. 533.
International Studio.
V. 58, Apr. 1916, p. LVIII.
F Maes, Nicholaas.
F Marr, Carl.
F McEwen, Walter.
Spinning.
A winter evening in the Tyrol.
Types of spinning wheels.
The old spinner.
Museum Amsterdam.
750 Brown's.
Gossip.
MetropoHtan Mus. N. Y.
Copley.
103 Emery.
Telling ghost stories.
112 Emery.
Mcintosh Stereopticon Co.
Slide No. E 1047.8.
French peasant spinner.
National Geographical Magazine.
I V. 24, Aug. 1913, p. 933.
26, Sept. 1914, p. 206.
p. 292.
I 28, Nov. 1915, p. 417.
F Rembrandt, van Ryn.
F Romney, George.
Underwood and Underwood.
Stereograph and slide neg.
no. 6572.
A Swiss wheel and distaff.
A spinner of Britanny.
Spinning bee near Berlin.
Aged spinner of France.
Old woman spinning.
Albertina Gallery, Vienna.
Harper's Black and White
Prints.
At the spinning wheel (portrait
of Lady Hamilton) .
Artistic photo. Co.
Spinning, Breton home.
APPENDIX B
221
Spinning IX
Scientific American Supplement.
V. 31, Jan. 1891, sup. no. Crompton's mule in Chadwick's
785.
Weaving II
Art and Decoration.
I V. I, Mar. 1911, p. 208.
The Studio.
I autumn 1910, fig. 345.
Weaving IV
Leslie's Weekly.
Aug. 18, 1904, p. 153.
July 28, 1904, p. 83.
Keystone View Co.
Stereograph, No. 1005 1.
Weaving V
F AUen, Frances and Mary.
F Brush, George de Forest.
Country Life in America.
Feb. 1906, p. 413.
p. 414.
Everybody's Magazine.
I V. 6, Jan. 1902, p. 35.
I P- 39-
I p. 40.
I p. 41.
Mcintosh Stereopticon Co.
Slide No. E 1047.14.
Museum, Boston.
Ancient and modern looms.
Weighted warp loom.
Igorote, weaving blanket.
Igorote, weaving cloth.
Weaving hemp into cloth, native
method, Philippines.
Navajo weaver.
An Indian weaver.
Harper's black and white,
1899.
Warping.
Weaving the rug.
Navajo woman weaving at
hogan.
Warping.
The loom ready for work.
The loom with design.
Weaving Navajo blanket.
222 APPENDIX B
National Geographical Magazine.
V. 15, Aug. 1904, p. 346. Indian weaver, S. W. Mexico.
19, Oct. 1908, p. 688. Poncho weaver of Cuzco, Peru.
I 23, Sept. 191 2, p. 889. An Ifugao woman making
cloth.
23, Dec. 191 2, p. 1280. Bedouin women weaving woolen
cloth.
29, May 1916, p. 454. Making blankets on hand looms,
Peru.
30, July 1916, p. 21. Weaving a blanket in Indian
Mexico.
Underwood and Underwood.
Stereograph and slide neg. Blanket weaving of Hopi In-
No. 6188. dians, Arizona.
Records of the Past.
Slide and print. No. 4500. Navajo woman spinning and
weaving.
1 1826. Navajo woman, Oraibe, Ariz.
4530. Navajo woman completing rug.
4501. Navajo blanket weaver.
Scientific American Supplement.
I V. 10, Sept. 1880, sup. no. Instruments used in weaving
I 244, PL I. Aino cloth.
PL 2. Methods of stretching and tying
threads.
I . PL 3. Weaving Aino cloth.
V. 53, June 1902, sup. no.
1382, Fig. 7. Weaving istle bagging by hand.
Weaving VI
Illustrated London News Supplement.
May 28, 1881, p. 525. Native loom at Mangauya,E. C.
Africa.
Penny Magazine.
Aug. 24, 1883, p. 325. Weaving in Ceylon.
APPENDIX B 223
Scientific American Supplement.
I V. 51, May 1901, Figs. i-io. Heddle frames.
Pueblo woman sitting on ground
working heddle in weaving a
belt.
Zufii woman weaving cere-
monial belt.
Chinese cotton cloth weaver.
ae.
Woman of Korea weaving.
Woman unwinding thread for
loom.
Starching thread and preparing
it for loom, Korea.
Weaving in Senegalais.
Illustrated London News Supplement.
May 17, 1879, p. 473. Weaving in Jellalabad.
Underwood and Underwood.
Stereograph and shde neg.
No. 3453. Shawl weavers at Cashmere.
Weaving IX
F Cooper, Emma L. The Weaver, Canada.
Phila. Water Color exhibit,
June, 1906.
American Water Color Co. No.
449.
Country Life in America.
V. 4, July 1903, p. 198. Loom warped for weaving,
p. 199. Weaving.
10, June 1906, p. 863. A silk loom.
p. 254. Old hand loom.
I
Fig. II.
I
Fig. 12.
Weaving VII
Magazine of Art.
April 1900, p. 269.
National Geographical Ma:
V. 19, Dec. 1908, p. 874.
I p. 875.
I
p. 876.
Weaving
VIII
Figaro
Aug.
lUustre.
1900, p. 180.
224
APPENDIX B
Craftsman.
V. I, Jan. 1902, p. 28.
p. 46.
16, May 1909, p. 227.
29, Nov. 1915, p. 224.
p. 224.
29, Dec. 1915, p. 323-
Hand looms, Halsemere, Eng.
Colonial loom, Kentucky.
Low warp loom, Herter tapes-
tries.
"Aunt Debby." Warps ready
to be entered through heddles.
Blind Tom weaving rag rugs.^
Starting a coverlid with five
heddles.
At the loom.
1030 Perry.
Illustrated London News Supplement.
Feb. 6, 1875, p. 128. Weaving Sarango, Java.
May 28, 1881, p. 521. ' Matting weavers, Glasgow.
Royal tapestry looms at Wind-
sor.
Weaving, warping and repairing.
Weaving cloth-of-gold for the
King and Queen.
International Studio.
v. 58, Apr. 1916, p. LVIII. Colonial hand loom.
Keystone View Co.
Stereograph, No. 13499.
F Gay, Walter.
I Apr. 29, 1882, p. 413.
June 17, 1911, p. 945.
14754-
Mcintosh Stereopticon Co.
Slide, No. 1046.15.
E 1047.10.
E 1047.19.
E 1047.20.
E 1078. 74.
Weaving woolen blankets on
primitive hand loom, Tele-
marken.
Native loom, Kirju, Japan.
Japanese looms.
Weaving at loom in Norway.
Weaving Gobelin tapestries,
France.
Weaving Gobelin tapestries,
France.
Weaving Persian rugs.
APPENDIX B
225
Modern Mexico.
June 1903, p. 27. Weaving.
National Geographical Magazine.
Looms of the Ilocanos, Luzon.
A Swedish home.
Benguet Igorot girls weaving.
Armenian rug weavers at
Van.
Factory weaving in Japan.
V. 16, Apr. 1905, p. 182.
20, May 1909, p. 470.
24, Nov. 1913, p. 1241.
28, Oct. 191S, p. 340.
Records of the Past.
Slide and print, No. 11028.
Scientific American Supplement.
V. 48, Aug. 1899, Sup. No. The carpet workers, Gobelin.
1232.
Southern Workman.
Apr. 1903, p. 211.
June 1903, p. 278.
The Studio.
Autumn 1910, fig. 345.
Underwood and Underwood.
Stereograph and slide neg.
No. 9574.
4639-
6419.
3886.
11467.
I 1468.
Weaving X
International Studio.
V. 42, Nov. 1910, p. 40.
Hand loom.
Weaving in Macedonia.
Crude loom Nn. Museum, Stock-
holm.
Weaving royal Gobelin, France.
Weaving Pima cloth, Philip-
pines.
Natives weaving matting,
Mexico.
Peasant weaving cotton, Japan.
Arab weaver, Syria.
Weaving, Syria.
Ancient Japanese loom for weav-
ing brocades from the Sho-
kurin Burni by Minko.
226 APPENDIX B
Weaving XI
Mcintosh Stereopticon Co.
Slide No. E 1049.14. Jacquard for linen.
Scientific American Supplement.
V. 69, Apr. 1 9 10, sup. no. Building up the Jacquard har-
1790. ness.
1790. Jacquard figured goods.
Underwood and Underwood. •
Stereograph and slide neg.
No. 1 1446. Warping mill — silk.
1 1448. Entering silk through heddles.
145 19. Jacquard weaving.
APPENDIX C
BOOKS FOR JUVENILES WITH ADDITIONAL ILLUS-
TRATIONS
Compiled by Anna la Tourette Blauvelt.
Adams, Cyrus W., Commercial geography. D. Apple ton & Co.
1911.
Allen, Nellie B., Geographical and industrial reader. Ginn &
Co. 1916.
Baker, Emile Kip, Stories of old Greece and Rome. MacmOlan,
1913-
Baldwin, James, Old Greek stories. American Book Co. 1895.
Beard, L. and A. B., Recreation for girls. Chas. Scribner &
Sons. 1 9 14.
Bonawitz and Coleman, Little travellers around the world. A.
S. Barnes & Co. 1907.
Bulfinch, Thos., Golden age of myth and legend. F. A. Stokes
&Co.
Bulfinch, Thos., Mythology. T. F. Crowell Co. 1913.
Carpenter, Frank G., How the world is clothed. Amer. Book
Co. 1908.
Chamberlain, James F., How we are clothed. Macmillan Co.
1904.
Champlain, J. D., Young folks cyclopedia of common things.
Henry Holt Co. 1908.
Chase, and Clow, Stories in industry, II. Educational Pub. Co.
1909.
Colonial Stories retold from the St. Nicholas. Century Co.
Customs of the world. Paternoster Row, London.
Davis, John W., Evenings with Grandma. D. C. Heath. 1911.
Emory, Mabel S., How to enjoy pictures. Prang Co. 1898.
227
228 APPENDIX C
Gayley, Charles Mills. The classic myths in English literature
and art. Ginn 8: Co. 191 1.
Grover, Eulalie Osgood, Art literature readers, I. Atkinson,
Mentzer Co. 1904.
Guerber, H. A., Myths in northern lands. Amer. Book Co.
189s.
Hancock, Mary S., The children of history. Little, Brown, &
Co.
I Harding, Samuel B., The story of England. Scott, Foresman Sz
Co. 1909.
Hilton and RoUins, Industrial work for public schools. Rand
& McNally. 1904.
I Holbrook, Florence, Round the year in myth and song. Amer.
Book Co. 1897.
I Keller and Bishop, Commercial and industrial geography.
Ginn & Co. 1916.
Kingsley, Charles, The heroes. E. P. Button & Co.
I Kinne and Cooley, Clothing and health. Macmillan Co.
1916.
I Kinne and Cooley, Shelter and clothing. Macmillan Co.
1913-
Lang, Jean, Book of myths. Putnam.
Morris, Charles, Home life in all lands. Lippincott Co. 1909.
Poulsson, Emily, In the child world. M. Bradley. 1898.
Richmond, Celia, England, Scotland and Ireland. Ginn & Co.
1914.
Rocheloau, W. F., Great American industries. A. Flanagan Co.
1906.
Shillig, Eleanor E., The four wonders. Rand & McNally.
1913.
Warner, Charles F., Home decoration. Doubleday Page & Co.
1911.
I Williams, Archibald, How it is made. Thomas Nelson & Sons.
I Wilmot-Buxton, Stories of Norse heroes. T. Y. Crowell Co.
N. Y.
INDEX
African,
spinning, lo, 2g-3i, figs. 3, 6, g
weaving, 89, 99, 107, iii, 126-129,
136-141, 158-165, figs. 44, 50, 51,
62, 64
Ainu weaving, 83, 106, 136-141, 154
Alaskan Indian,
spinning, 18-20
weaving, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Algerian spinning, fig. 9
Alpine,
spinning, 29-31, fig. 8
weaving, 119-121, fig. 35
American Indian, N. A.,
Alaskan, 18-20, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Hopi, 149-151, fig. 56
Kwakiutl, 24-26, fig. 5
Mexican, 130-134, figs. 46-49
Navajo, 24-26, 91, loi, 107, no,
130-134, 136-141, figs. 4. 45, 47-
49, 53, 54
Northwest coast, 9, 18-20, 83, 94,
109, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Pima, 24-26
Salish, 21-23, 86, 126-129, figs. 2,
43
Slave, fig. 52
Tlinget, 18-20, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Zuni, 149-151, fig. 55
American Indian, S. A.,
British Guiana apron weaving, 126-
128
Holamux Indian loom, 126-128, fig.
41
Tereno Indian loom, 126-128, fig.
42
Ancient textiles, 1-3
spinning, 3, 4, 10, 29-31, figs. 3, 6, 8
weaving, 81, 87, 90, 91, 92, 96, 98,
99, loi, 104, 107, III, 119-121,
136-141, figs. 35-38, so, 51
2
Arkwright's Water frame, 56-59, figs.
21, 22
Asiatic,
spinning, 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 24-26,
29-31, 36-39, fig- 10
weaving, 83, 98, 99, 106, 136-140,
153-157, 158-165, 185-189, figs.
57-61, 63, 65, 77, 78, 82
Asiatic wheel (see Jersey wheel)
Attenuating, 4, 6-9, 19, 22, 25, 30, 39,
48, 53, 57, 61, 66, 74
Attenuating device,
hand, 6-8, 18, 24, 36, 43, figs. 4, 5, 12,
13
hand and spindle, 6-8, 29, 30, fig. 7
moving carriage, 8-9, 51, 52, figs. 17-
19
rollers, 8-9, 56, 71, 72, figs. 22, 26-28
rollers and moving carriage, 8-9, 59,
60, 64, figs. 23-25
spindle and ring, 21, 22
Attenuating ring, 21, 22
Automatic,
beams, 91, 199-201, figs. 87—89
spinning, 17, 64-67, 71-75, figs. 25-29
weaving, 91, 113, 199-203, figs. 87-89
Bar looms, 86, 88, 107, 108, 126-130,
130-135, fig- 41-49
Bark mat weaving, 83, 114-115, fig. 30
Basketry technics, 82, 83
Batten, 104-106
comb, 105, 131, 136, 138, 163, fig. 60
needle-shuttle, loi, 102, 105, 128,
138
none, 104, 114, 126, 127, 131, 136,
138., 150, figs. 30, 31, 41-43
reed, 106, 153, 154, 156, 161, 163,
168, 172, 186, 193, 200, 201, figs. 52,
57-59, 61, 62, 64, 65, 67, 72-76,
77, 78, 87-89
29
230
INDEX
Batten,
stick, los, 119, 120, 128, 131, 136,
138, 149, 150, 161, 163, • 168,
172, figs. 39, 40, 44-46, 48, so. 51-
54-56, 60, 66
Battening, 84, loi, 102, 104-106, 114,
IIS, 121, 129, 133, 139, 151, 157,
164, 172, 188, 203
Beaming, 84, 86, no, 1x5, 121, 128,
132, 139, 150, 164, 172, 188, 202
Beams, 86-92 {see Warp arrangement)
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89
non-revolving, 90-92
one only, 86, 90, 114, figs. 31-33
revolving cloth beam, 88, 90-92
revolving warp beam, 89-92
Bedouin weaving, 98
Beni Hassan, 92
Bibliography, general, 207 (Appendix A)
Bibliography, spinning,
Flyer, Cap and Ring sp. frames, 75
Grasped hand spindle, 23
Hand mule, 62
Hand spinning, 20
Jenny frame, 54
Jersey and Asiatic wheels, 40
Saxony wheel, 48
Self-acting mule, 67
Supported hand spindle, 26
Suspended hand spindle, 32
Water frame, 57
Bibliography, weaving.
Draw loom, 188
Frameless two-bar loom, 134
Jacquard loom, 196
One-beam loom, 117
One-shaft loom, 151
One-shaft treadle loom, 158
Perfected hand loom, 179
Power loom, 203
Two-bar loom, 129
Two-beam loom, 144
Two-shaft treadle loom, 165
Weighted warp loom, 122
Bobbin creel (spinning), 52, 53, 56, 60,
61, 72, 74, figs. 17, 18, 19, 26
Bobbin shuttle, 102, 131, 154, 156,
161, 163, 168, 171, 186, 193, 201,
figs. 58, 59. 61. 66, 68, 74, 77
Bobbin spindle
on Flyer, Cap and Ring frames, 12,
14, 71-74. figs. 26-29
on Saxony wheel, 11, 13, 43-48,
figs. 12-16
on Water frame, 12, 13, 56, 57, figs.
21, 22
Bone and muscle, 83
Books for Juveniles with illustrations,
227 (Appendix C)
British Guiana apron weaving, 126-129
Brunswick spinning wheel, 36-39 {see
Jersey wheel)
Bunched warp ends, 88
Calabar, W. Africa, loom, 126-129,
fig- 44
Cap spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 71-79,
figs. 26, 29 {see Flyer spinning
frame)
Cartwright's power looms, figs. 86, 87
Ceylon loom, 98, 154-157, fig. 57
Chilkat blanket weaving, 114-116,
figs. 31-34
Chinese treadle wheel, 11, 36-39
Chinese weaving,
draw loom, 185-188, figs. 77, 82
early loom, 98, 106, 153-158, fig. 59
Chronological sequence, 2
Circe loom, 119-121, figs. 36, 37
Cloth beam, 86-92 {see W. types)
attached to weaver's belt, 88, 91, 107,
130, 132, 137, 148-150, 154, 156,
figs. 45, 55, 56, 58. 59
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89
identical with warp beam, 86, 90, 114,
figs. 31-33
Navajo, 91
non-revolving, 90-92
revolving, 88, 90-92
Cloth making, 80-206 {sec Weaving, W.
implement, W. processes, W.
types)
age, 80
ancient, 81, 87, 90, 91, 92, 96, 99,
loi, 104, 107, III, 119-121, 136-
141, figs, 35-38, so, 51
beginnings, i, 2, 80
defined, 82, 83
INDEX
231
Cloth making,
developments, 2, 81, 85-113 {see
W. types)
early, i, 2, 4, 80, 81
first implements for, 85
implement for {see Looms)
into garments, 82
into piece goods, 82
invention in, 80-113 {see W. types)
loom weaves, 82, 83
mastery in, 81
native materials for, 81, 83
native weavers, 2
origin of, 80, 81
primitive, 1-3, 80-82 {see ibid.)
processes, 84-113 {see W. processes)
simplest, 94, 114-116, fig. 30
source, 80
structure, 83
Clove bars, 52, 53, figs. 17-19
Colonial loom, 168-179
Comberboard, 187, 196, figs. 81, 84,
8s
Combining processes, 14, 15
Conserving energy, 15, 17
Continuous spinning, 13, 15, 43, 56, 72,
figs. 12-16, 21, 22, 26-29
Continuous weaving, 91, 199-203, figs.
86-89
Counter faller-wire, 64-66, fig. 25
Creel of rove bobbins (spinning), 52,
S3, 56, 60, 61, 72, 74, figs. 17, 18,
19, 26
Crompton's hand mule, 59-62, figs. 23,
24
Dacca yarn, 7, 10, 11, 24-26
Design making, 93, 94, 95, 99, 100, 105,
185-188, 192-196, figs. 77-81, 83-
8S _
Developing agencies, 14-17, 11 2-1 13
{see Yarn making and Cloth mak-
ing)
Development, 5-17, 81, 85-113 {see S.
and W. types)
Direction of technic, 114, 119, 126, 131,
136, 149
Distaff, 8, 29-31, 43, 46-48, figs. 7, 9,
13
Distinctive characteristics,
spinning types, 18, 21, 24, 29, 36,
43,51, 56, 59, 64, 71
weaving types, 114, 119, 126, 130,
136, 149, 153, 158, 168, 185, 192,
199
Double drafting, 7-9, 15, 29-31, 59,
61, 64, 66, figs. 7, 23-25
Drafting {see Attenuating)
Draw boy, 100, 186, 188, 193, figs. 77,
78
Draw boy mounting, 100, 185, 186, figs.
77-81
Draw loom, 185-192, figs. 77-82,
Action of two harness systems, 100,
185-189, fig. 79
bibliography, 188
characteristics, 185
Chinese draw loom, 185-188, fig. 77
compound system of shedding, 100,
185-189, figs. 77-81
Diagram European draw loom, 185-
188, fig. 81
economics, 100
in production, 188
in cloth, 188
examples, 186
first elaborate pattern weaving, 100,
185, figs. 77-81
French draw loom, 100, 185-188, fig.
81
illustration list, 191
implement, 186
batten, 106, 186, figs. 77, 78
beams, 89-91, 186, figs. 77, 78
frame, log, 186, figs. 77, 78
shedding mechanism, 186
shaft mounting, 98-100, 185,
186, figs. 77-81
draw boy mounting, 100, 185,
186, figs. 77-81
shuttle, 102, 103, 186, figs. 68, 69,
74, 75, 77
treadles, 185, 188
warping device, no, in, 188, fig.
82
Japanese draw loom, 185-188, fig. 78
loom mounting, 188
magazine illustration, 225
232
INDEX
Draw loom,
outline, i86
power, 113, 188
process, 188
battening, 84, 188
beaming, 84, 188
heddling, 84, 188
picking, 84, 188
shedding, 84, 188, 189
warping, 84, 188
warp adjusting, 178
silk warping in ancient China, fig. 82
two systems of harness, 185-189,
fig. 80
weft devices, 185
wefting, 188
Draw rollers,
on Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning
frames, 7, 8, 71, 72, 74, figs. 26-28
on Hand mule, 7-9, 59-61, figs. 23, 24
on Self-acting mule, 7-9, 64, 66,
fig- 25
on Water frame, 7-9, 56, 57, fig. 22
Drive wheel, 11, 16, 17, 36-39, 43-48,
Si-54, 56, 57, 60, 61, figs. 10-13,
16-19, 22-24
Drop-box shuttle, 104, 168, 172, 178,
193, 201, fig. 76
Dunbar mat weaving, 98, 153-157.
fig- 57
Early spinners, 2
Early weavers, 2
Early yarn, 3, 4
Eastern weavers, 98, 99, 112
Economic progress {see S. and W.
development. Increased production
and Improved product)
Egyptian spinning,
yarn, 10, 29-31, fig. 6
twine, fig. 3
Egyptian weaving,
Ancient mat loom, 90, 91, 104, 136-
141, fig. 50
Middle Age loom, 92, 158-165, fig. 64
Middle Kingdom hnen loom, 90, 91,
92, 96, loi, 136-141, fig. 51
New Kingdom linen loom, 90, 92, 96,
loi, 107, III, 136-141
EngHsh fly-shuttle weaving, 168-179,
fig- 67, 75
Entire weavings, 82
European,
spinning, 8, 29-31, 36-74, figs. 7, 8,
11-29
weaving, 100, 112, 119-121, 168-
179, 185-189, 192-196, 199-203,
figs- 35-40, 66-76, 79-81, 83-89
Extended warp, 88, 89, figs- 60-62,
64, 65 {see Warp arrangement)
Faller-wire, 52, 53, 62, 64-66, figs. 19,
25
Flesh and skin, 83
Fly-shuttle, 103, 108, 168, 171, 175-
179, 186, 193, 201, figs. 67, 69, 75,
76
Flyer spinning frame, 71-79, figs- 26-29
bibliography, 75
characteristics, 71
continuous spinning, 72, 74
Cross section. Flax spinning frame,
fig. 26
economics, 56
in output, 74
in yarn, 75
example, 72
illustration list, 76
implement,
creel of rove bobbins, 72, 74, fig. 26
drawing rollers, 8, 71, 72, figs. 26, 27
Flyer spindle, 12, 14, 71, 72, figs.
26, 27
frame, 72, fig. 26
lifter rail or plate, 72, figs. 26, 27
spindles with bobbins, 12, 14, 71^
72, figs. 26, 27
modeled after, 71
outline, 72
power, 17, 71, 74
process,
attenuating, 7, 8, 74
twisting, 12, 74
winding, 14, 74
Frame {see S. frame and Loom frame)
Frameless looms, 86, 88, 107, 130, 131,
137, 149, 150, figs. 45. 46, 50. 51.
55, 56
INDEX
233
Frameless two-bar loom, 130-135, figs.
45-49
bibliography, 134
characteristics, 130
development of simplest shedding,
93-95, 131-133, figs. 46-49
direction of technic, 131
economics, 86, 88, 107
in cloth, 134
in production, 134
example, 131
illustration list, 135
implement, 130, 131
batten, 104, 105, 131, figs. 45, 46, 48
frame, 86, 88, 107, 130, 131, figs.
45. 46
free bars, 86, 88, 130, 131, fig. 45
rod-heddle, 95, 131, 133, figs. 45,
46, 48, 49
shed-rod, 93, 94, 131, 133, figs. 45,
46, 48, 49
shuttle, loi, 102, 131, fig. 46
warping device, no, 131, 132, fig.
47
warp post, 86, 88, 107, 130, 132
weaver's belt, 86, 88, 107, 130-
132, fig. 45
weaver's comb, 105, 131, fig. 60
loom mounting, 84, 132
magazine illustration, 221
Mexican belt loom, 130, 134, fig. 46
modern Navajo belt loom frame, 131
Navajo woman weaving belt, 130-
i34> fig- 45
outline, 131
power, 112, 131
process, 132
battening, 84, 133
beaming, 84, 86, 132
heddhng, 84, 132
picking, 84, 133
shedding, 84, 133
warp adjusting, 133, 134
warping, 84, 132
Rod-heddle and shed-rod at work,
95. 133, fig- 49
Shed-rod and rod-heddle, 95, fig. 48
warp devices, 86, 130
Warping for Navajo belt, 132, fig. 47
Frameless two-bar loom,
warp lengthening, 88
warp stretching, 86, 130, 132, figs. 45,
49
weft devices, 94, 95, 102, 105, 131
wefting, 84, 133
Free spindle, 10, 11, 18-32, figs. 2-9
French loom,
draw, 185-188, fig. 81
hand, 168-179
Grasped hand spindle, 21-24, figs. 2, 3
Egyptian twine maker, fig. 3
bibliography, 23
characteristics, 21
economics, 14—16
in production, 22
in yarn, 23
example, 21
illustration list, 24
implement, 21
drafting ring, 21,22
hand spindle, 9, 10, 21, fig. 2
intermittent spinning, 12, 21
largest hand spindle, 10, 21, fig. 2
most elemental spindle spinning, 10,
12, 16, 22, fig. 2
outline, 21
power, 16, 22
process, 22
attenuating, 7, 22
twisting, 10, 16, 22, fig. 2
winding, 12, 22
simplest attenuating device, 21, 22
Simplest spindle spinning, Salish
Indian, fig.' 2
Greek,
ancient spinning, 10
ancient weaving, 103, iig-121, figs.
36-38
medieval weaving, 168-179, fig. 66
Grifi", 195, 196, figs. 84, 85
Hand crank, 38, 52, figs. 18, 19, 23, 24
Hand drafting, 6-8, 19, 22, 25, 30, 39,
48, figs. 4, 7, 12, 13
Hand mule, 59-64, figs. 23, 24
bibliography, 62
characteristics, 59
234
INDEX
Hand mule,
compound of Water frame and
Jenny, 59, 60
Crompton's mule, 59-62, fig. 23
Cross section, Hand mule, fig. 24
double drafting, 8, 9, 15, 59, 61
earliest mechanical double attenua-
tion, 59-62
earliest mechanically spun fine yarn,
economics, 15
in output, 62
in yarn, 62
example, 60
illustration list, 63
implement, 59, 60
carriage with spindles, 9, 59, 60,
figs. 23, 24
creel of rove bobbins, 61, figs. 23,
24
draft rollers, 8, g, 59, 60, fig. 24
drive wheel, 60. figs. 23, 24
faller-wire, 62
frame, 60, figs. 23, 24
headstock, 60, figs. 23, 24
spindles, 12, fig. 24
intermittent spinning, 59, 60
magazine, illustration, 221
outline, 60
power, 17, 60
process, 61
attenuating, 7, 8, 9, 61
twisting, 12, 61
winding, 13, 61
Hand shuttle (see Bobbin shuttle)
Hand spindle spinning, 6-8, 9-1 1, 12,
21-23, 24-26, 29-31, figs. 2-9
Hand spinning, 18-21, fig. i
bibliography, 20
characteristics, 18
early, 4
economics, 5, 14, 15
in production, 20
in yarn, 20
examples, 18
Hand-on-thigh spinning, Philippine
Islands, fig. i
illustration list, 21
implement, 18, ig, fig. i
Hand spinning,
intermittent spinning, 12, 18-
magazine illustration, 216
outline, 18
power, 19
process, 19
drafting, 6, 7, 18, 19
twisting, 9, 18, ig, fig. i
winding, 12, 18, ig
simplest spinning, 7, g, 18, fig. i
Hangers, 186, fig. 80, 81
Hargreaves' Jenny, 51-55, figs. 18-20
Harness,
double, 100, i85-i8g, figs. 77-81
Jacquard, g3, 100, ig2-ig5, figs. 83-
. ^5
single, gg, 156, 161, 163, 170, figs. 57-
62, 64-67, 72, 73
Heddles {see Shedding device)
Heddling, 84, 115, 121, 132, 139, 150,
157, 164, 172, 188, 202
High's Jenny, fig. 17
Holamux Indian loom, i26-i2g, fig. 41
Hook and Needle Harness, 100, ig3,
igS, ig6, figs. 83-85
Hopi Indian belt weaver, 149-151, fig.
56
Hungarian,
Peasant warping, fig. 71
Suspended spindle spinning, fig. 7
Iceland loom, iig-121, fig. 40
Illustration lists, spinning,
Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning frames,
76
Grasped hand spindle, 24
Hand mule, 63
Hand spinning, 21
Jenny frame, 55
Jersey and Asiatic wheels, 41
Saxony wheel, 49
Self-acting mule, 69
Supported hand spindle, 28
Suspended hand spindle, 34
Water frame, 58
Illustration Usts, weaving
Draw loom, igi
Frameless two-bar loom, 135
Jacquard loom, ig7
INDEX
235
Illustration lists, weaving
One-beam loom, 118
One-shaft loom, 152
One-shaft treadle loom, 158
Perfected hand loom, 181
Power loom, 204
Two-bar loom, 130
Two-beam loom, 144
Two-shaft treadle loom, i65
Weighted warp loom, 124
Implement for spinning,
ancient, 4, g
awkward, 2
early, 4
free spindle, g-ii, 21-23, 24-26,
29-32, figs. 2-9
hand only, 2, s, g, 18-20, fig. i
improvements in, 6
mounted spindle, 11, 12
on frames, 5, 7, 8, 51-54. 56-57,
59-62, figs. 17-24
on machines, 5, 7, 8, 64-67, 71-74,
figs. 25-29
on wheels, 5, 6, 8, 36-39, 43-48,
figs. 10-16
self-acting tool, 2, 5, 7, 64-67, 71-74,
figs. 25-29
Implement for weaving, 85-113 {see W.
types)
Improved product, 1-3
cloth, 85-111, 115, 121, 129, 134,
141, 151, 158, 165, 179, 188, 196,
203
yarn, 4-14, 20, 23, 26, 31, 40, 48, 54,
57, 62, 67, 75
Increased production, 1-3
in cloth, 85-111, 112-113, 115, 121,
129, 134, 141, 151, 157, 164, 178,
188, ig6, 203
in yarn, 5, 6, 14-17, 20, 22, 26, 31,
39, 48, 53, 57, 62, 67, 74
India,
spinning, 7, lo-ii, 36-39, fig. 10
weaving, 89, 92, 98, 99, no, 153-
157, 158-165, figs. 57, 60, 61,
63, 70
Indian {see American Indian, N.
and S.)
Industrial Revolution, 6, 100
Intermittent spinning, 12, 13, 15, 18,
24, 30, 37, 51, 59, 64
Invention,
activity in, 2
beginnings, 2
incentive to, i
mastery in, 2
primitive, 2
spinning, 3-75
spirit of, I
textile, I, 2
weaving, 80-203
Iron pin, 91, 150, 151
Ishogo weaving, 136-141
Jacquard hand loom, ig2-ig8, figs. 83-
85
bibliography, ig6
characteristics, 192
developing pattern shedding, 100
economics, gg, 100
in cloth, 196
in production, 196
example, 193
illustration list, 197
implement, 193
batten, 106, 193, figs. 67, 74-76
beams, 89-gi, 193, fig. 83
frame, 109, 193, fig. 83
shedding device,
shaft-heddles, 98-100, 192-196
string-heddles and mechanism,
100, 192-196, figs. 83-85
shuttle, 102-104, 193, figs. 68, 6g,
74-76
Jacquard at work, fig. 85
Jacquard hand loom of 1804, 192-
196, fig. 83
Jacquard mechanism, 192-196, fig.
84
magazine illustration, 226
outline, 193
perfected pattern shedding, 100, 192-
196, figs. 83-85
power, 113, 196
process, ig6
shedding, 84, 196
Jacquard harness, 93, 99, 100, 192-196,
figs. 83-Ss
236
INDEX
Japanese weaving,
draw loom, 185-188, fig. 78
early loom, 98, 153-158
Jenny spinning frame, 51-55, figs. 17-20
acceleration by multiple spinning,
SI, 53
all mechanical processes, 51, 53
bibliography, 54
characteristics, 51
Cross section of Hargreaves' Jenny,
SI-S3, fig- 19
earliest mechanical attenuation, 7, 8,
51-54
earliest multiple spinning device,
51
economics, 8
in output, 53
in yarn, 54
example, 51
Hargreaves' Jenny, 51-54, fig. 18
High's Jenny, fig. 17
illustration list, 55
implement, 51
clove bars, 51-53, figs. 17-1Q
creel with rove bobbins, 51-53,
figs. 17-19
drive wheel, 51-53, figs. 17-19
endless band and cylinder, 51, 52,
figs. 17-19
faller-wire, 52, 53
frame, 51, 52, figs. 17-19
moving carriage, 8, 51-53, figs. 17-
19
row of spindles, 51-53, figs. 17, 18
intermittent spinning, 15, 51, 53
multiple spinning frame, 51
outline, 51
power, 52
principle of, 51
process, 53
attenuating, 8, 51-53
twisting, 12, 5 1-53
winding, 13, 51-53
Spindle of Jenny, fig. 20
Jersey wheel, 36-43, figs. 10, 11,
accelerating wheel, 36
bibliography, 40
characteristics, 36
developing agencies, 14, 16
Jersey wheel,
earliest mechanical spinning, 36
Earliest spinning wheel, India, 11.
fig. 10
economics, 11, 14, 16
in production, 39
in yarn, 40
examples, 37
first mechanical twisting and wind-
ing, 11-13, 36, 37
first mounted spindle, 11, 12, 36-39
illustration list, 41
implement, 37
crank, 38, fig. 10
drive band, 11, 38, figs. 10, 11
drive stick, 38, figs. 10, 11
drive wheel, 11, 36-39, figs. 10,
II
spindle, 11, 13, 36-39, figs. 10, 11
standard, 11, 37, figs. 11
treadle, 11, 37, 38
intermittent spinning, 12, 13, 37,
38
Jersey hand wheel, Europe, fig. 11
magazine illustration, 218
motion, 14, 37, 38
one-hand spinning wheel, 36-39,
figs. 10, II
outline, 37
power, 16, 38
principle, 36
process, 39
attenuating, 8, 36, 38, 39
twisting, II, 12, 36, 38, 39
winding, 12, 37-39
Korean loom, 98, 153-158, fig. 58
Koryak native spinning, 18-20
Kwakiutl Indian spinner, 24-26, fig. 5
Lake-dwellers,
spinning, fig. 8
weaving, g6, 119-121, fig. 35
Lease, 95, 109, no, in, 164, 172, figs.
67. 72. 73
Lease-rod, 95, figs. 67, 72, 73
Leashes, 100, 186, 196, figs. 77, 78, 80,
81, 84, 85
Leonardo da Vinci's spindle, fig. 14
INDEX
237
"Let-off," 84, 91, 112, 157, 164, 178,
200
Lingoes, 186, 196, figs. 80, 81, 84, 85
Looms {see W. types),
African, 89, 98, 99, 107, 126-129,
136-141, 158-165, figs. 44, 50, 51,
62, 64 {see Egy. w.)
Ainu, 83, 106, 136-141
Alaskan, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Alpine, 119-121, fig. 35
Asiatic, 83, 89, 92, 98, 99, 106, no,
136-141, 153-158, 158-165, 185-
189, figs. 57-61, 63, 65, 77-80
Bedouin, 98
British Guiana apron, 126-129
Calabar, 126-129, fig. 44
Cartwright's, figs. 86, 87
Ceylon, 98, 154-157, fig. 57
Chilkat, 114-116, figs. 31-34
Chinese, 98, 106, 153-158, 185-188,
figs. 5Q. 77. 82
Circe, 119-121, figs. 36, 37
Colonial, 168-179
Draw loom, 91, 99, 100, 109, 113,
185-189, figs. 77-82
Dunbar, 98, i53-iS7, fig- 57
Egyptian, 90-92, 96, loi, 104, 107,
III, 136-141, 158-165, figs. 50, 51,
64
English, 168-179, figs. 67-76
European, 100, 112, 119-121, 168-
203, figs. 35-40, 67-76, 81, 83-89
Frameless, two-bar, 86, 88, 107, 130-
135, figs. 45-49
French, 168-179, 185-188, fig. 81
Greek, 103, 119-121, 168-179, figs.
36-38, 66
Holamux, 126-129, fig. 41
Hopi, 149-151- fig. 56
Icelandic, 11 9-1 21, fig. 40
India, 89, 92, 98, no, 153-157, 158-
165, figs. 57, 60, 61, 6j, 70
Ishogo, 136-141
Jacquard, 91, 93, 99, 100, 109, 113,
192-198, figs. 83-85
Japanese, 98, 153-158, 185-188, fig.
78
Korean, 98, 153-158, fig. 58
Lake-dweller, 96, 119-120, fig. 35
Looms,
Mexican, 130-134, figs. 46-49
Most elementary, 86, 87, 94, loi,
104, 109, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Navajo, 91, loi, 107, no, 130-134,
136-141, figs. 45, 47-4Q. Si, 54
Northwest coast, 83, 94, 109, 114-
n6, figs. 30-34
One-beam, 86, 87, 88, 94, loi, 107,
108, no, 114-119, figs. 30-34
One-shaft, 88, 91, 96, 107, 149-153,
figs- 55, 56
One-shaft treadle, 91, 97, 98, ic6,
108, n3, 153-157, figs. 58, 59
Penelope's, 103, 119-121, fig. 38
Perfected hand, 87, 91, 100, ic6, 108,
109, 113, 168-179, figs. 67-76
Power, 91, 109, 113, 193, 199-203,
figs. 86-89
Robert's, 199-203, fig. 89
Salish, 86, 126-129, fig- 43
Scandinavian, fig. 39
Slave, fig. 52
Tereno, 126-129, fig- 42
Two-bar, 86, 88, 107, 108, 126-130,
figs. 41-44
Two-beam, 87, 90, 107, 108, 136-
149, figs. 50-54
Two-shaft treadle, 91, 98, 99, ic6,
108, 113, 158-168, figs. 60-65'
Weighted warp, 86-88, 94, 107, 108,
n9-i25, figs. 35-40
Zuni, 149-151, fig. 55
Loom beams, 86-92 {see W. types)
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89
non-revolving, 89-92
one only, 86, go, 114, figs. 31-33
revolving cloth beam, 88, 90-92
revolving warp beam, 89-92
Loom frame, 106-109,
beginnings, 107, 108, 114, 120, 126,
127, 137, 161, figs. 30, 31, 36, 37,
39, 40, 41-43, 50-52, 57, 60, 61
horizontal, 108, 154, 156, 158, 161,
168, 169, 185, 186, 193, 200, figs.
58, 59, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67, 72, 77, 78,
83, 87, 89
vertical rectangular, 107, 108, 138,
168, i6g, figs. 44, 54, 66, 86
238
INDEX
Loom mounting, 84, 114, 121, 128, 132,
130, 150, 157, 164, 172, 188, 202
Loom weights, 86, 119, 120, figs. 35-40
Machine,
spinning, 5, 7, 64-67, 71-75, figs. 25-
29
warping, iii, 202
weaving, 81, 91, 112, 113, 199, 203,
figs. 86-89
Magazine illustration, 216 (Appendix
B)
Spinning I, 216; II, 216; IV, 217;
V, 218; VI, 219; IX, 221
Weaving, II, 221; IV, 221; V, 2 2 1 ;
VI, 222; VII, 223; VIII, 223;
IX, 223 ; X, 225 ; XI, 226
Mails, 186, 196, figs. 80, 81, 84, 85
Malay Island shuttle, 103
Matting, 87, 90, 91, 98, 104, 136-141,
153-157, figs, so, 57
Measuring stafi, 109, 114, 115, fig.
32
Mechanical drafting {see Attenuating)
7, 8, 9, 30, 51, 56, 61, 66, 74. figs.
6-9, 17-19, 21-29
Mechanical science,
in spinning {see Yarn making and
S. types)
in weaving (.see Cloth making and
W. types)
Medieval weaving, 92, 99, 100, 158-
165, 168-179, fig. 64, 66
Mexican,
belt weaving, 130-134, figs. 46-49
spinning, 24-26
Mill warping, in, 139, 172, 202, figs.
81, 82
Modern weaving, 81, 82
Most rudimentary weaving implement,
114, figs. 30, 31
Mounted spindle, 11, 12, 36-79, figs.
10-29
Moving carriage, 8-9
on Hand mule, 8, 9, 64-67, figs. 23,
24
on Jenny, 8, 51-53, figs. 17-19
on Self-acting mule, 8, 9, 64-67, fig.
25
Mule spinning,
Crompton's Hand mule, fig. 23
Cross section Hand mule, fig. 24
Four stages of mule spinning, fig. 25
Hand mule, 59-62, figs. 23, 24
Self-acting mule, 64-67, fig. 25
Navajo Indian,
belt weaving, no, 130-134, figs. 45,
47-49
blanket weaving, 91, loi, 107, no,
136-141, figs. 53- 54
spinning, 24-26, fig. 4
Necking cords, 187, 195, figs. 81, 84, 85
Needle board, 195, figs. 84, 85
Needle-shuttle, loi, 102, 105, 128, 138,
156, figs. 39, 57
Neolithic weavers, 81
Northwest coast Indian,
spinning, 9, 18-20
weaving, 83, 94, 109, 114-116, figs.
30-34
One-band wheel
{see Asiatic wheel)
(and Jersey wheel)
One-beam loom, 114-119, figs. 30-34
Am. Indian of northwest, 83, 94, 109,
n4-n6, figs. 30-34
Bark mat weaving, 83, 114-115, fig.
30
bibliography, 117
characteristics, 114
Chilkat blanket, 114-116, figs. 31-34
developing agencies, 85
beam, 86
frame, 107
warping, 109
direction of technic, 114
economics, 86, 87, 94, loi
in cloth, 115
in production, 115
example, 114
illustration list, 118
implement, 114
batten, 104, 114
beam, 86, 114-115, figs. 30, 31. 33
frame, 107, 108, 114, figs. 30, 31
shedding device, 94, 114, 115
INDEX
239
One-beam loom,
shuttle, loi, 114
warping device, log, 114, fig. 32
loom mounting, 84, 109, 114
Measuring stafi, 109, 114, fig. 32
Method of attaching warp, 86, no,
IIS, fig. 33
most rudimentary loom, 114, figs. 30,
31
outline, 114
over and under weaving, 114, 115
power, 112, 114
process, 114
battening, 84, 104, 114, 115
beaming, 84, 86, no, 115, fig. ^3
heddling, 84, 115
picking, 84, 94, loi, 114, 115
shedding, 84, 94, 114, 115
warping, 84, log, 115
suspended warp, 114, figs. 30, 31, ss
Twilled twining, 115, figs. 33, 34
twine weaving, 115, figs. 33, 34
warp length, 87, 88, 114, 115
warp stretching, 86, 114, 115
weaving technics, 114, 115, figs. 33, 34
weft devices, 94, loi, 104, 114
wefting, 84, 115
Wool weaving, fig. 3 1
One-shaft loom, 149-153, figs. 55, 56
bibliography, 151
characteristics, 149
development, 85
improved shedding, 96, 97
direction of technic, 149
economics,
in cloth, 151
in production, 151
examples, 149
frameless loom, 88, 107, 149-151
Hopi belt weaver, 149-151, fig. 56
illustration list, 152
implement, 149
batten, 105, 149, 150, figs. 55- S6
beams, 88, 89
cloth, 88, 91, 149, 150, figs. 55, 56
warp, 88, 149, 150, figs. 55, 56
warp post, 88, 107, 149, 150,
fig- 56
frame, 88, 107, 149, figs. 55, 56
One-shaft loom, implement,
shaft-heddle, 96, 97, 149, 150, figs.
55, 56
shuttle, 102, 149, 150, fig. 55
warping device, 150, fig. 47
weaver's belt, 88, 107, 149, 150,
figs. 45, 58, 59
loom mounting, 150
■ magazine illustration, 222
outline, 149
power, 112, 150
process, 150
battening, 84, 151
beaming, 84, 150
heddling, 84, 150
picking, 84, 151
shedding, 84, 151
warping, 84, 150
warp adjusting, 151
simplest shaft shedding, 149
warp devices, 149
warp extension, 88, 91, 149
warp stretching, 88, 149
weft devices, 96, 102, 105, 149,
150
wefting, 84, 151
Zuni belt making, 149-151, fig. 55
One-shaft treadle loom, 153-158, figs.
57-59
bibhography, 158
characteristics, 153
development, 85
batten, 106
beams, 89-91
frame, 108
power, 98
shedding, 97, 98
shuttle, loi, 102
Early Chinese loom, 98, 106, 153-
158, fig. 59
Early Korean loom, 98, 153-158, fig.
58
economics, 8g, 98, 99
in cloth, 157
in production, 157
Evolving heddle harness, 98, 154,
fig- 57
examples, 154
illustration list, 158
240
INDEX
One-shaft treadle loom,
implement, 156
batten, 106, 153, 154, 156, figs. 57-
59
beams, 89-91
cloth, 90, 91, 154, 156, figs. 57-59
warp, 89, 91, IS4. 156, figs. 57^59
frame, 108, 154, 156, figs. 58, 59
shed-rod, 97, 153, 154, 156, figs.
57-59
shaft-heddle, 97, 98, 153, 154, 156,
figs. 57-59
shuttle, loi, 102, 154, 156, figs. 57-
59
treadle, 98, 153, 156, figs. 58, 59
warping device, no, 156
weaver's belt, 91, 108, 154, 156, 157
in Bedouin desert, 98
in India, 89, 154
Japanese loom, 98, 153-158
loom mounting, 84, 157
magazine illustration, 223
most elementary use of foot power,
98, 153
outline, 154
power, 97, 98, 113, 153, 154, 156
process, 157
battening, 84, 157
beaming, 84, 157
heddling, 84, 157
picking, 84, 157
shedding, 84, 157
warping, 84, 157
warp adjusting, 157
transitional loom, 98, 108, 153
warp devices, 154
warp lengthening, 89-91, 154
weft devices, 154
wefting, 84, 157
Origin of textiles,
spinning, i, 2, 3
weaving, i, 2, 4, 80
Outline studies,
of spinning, 18, 21, 25. 30, 37, 43,
SI, 56, 60, 64, 72
of weaving, 114, 119, 126, 130, 136,
149, 153, 158, 168, 185, 192,
199
Over and under weaving, 93, 114, 115
Pattern cards, 100, 195, 196, figs. 83-85
Pattern shedding, 93, 100, 185-187,
192-196, figs. 77-81, 83-85
Pattern weaving, 93, 94, 95, 99, 100,
IDS, 185-188, 192-196, figs.
77-Si, 83-85
Peg warping, no, 139, 163, 172, 202,
fig. 70
Penelope's loom, 103, 119-121, fig. 38
Perfected hand loom, 168-185, figs. 66-
76 •
bibliography, 179
characteristics, 168
developing, 112
beams, 87, go, 91
frame, 108, 168
general mechanism, 112, 168
shuttle, 102-104, 168
Drop box shuttle, 104, 175, 178,
fig. 76
economics, 87, 108, 112
in cloth, 178
in production, 178
examples, 168
first stretched warp for long webs,
87, 178
first united mechanism, 112, 168, 178
Fly-shuttle, 103, 168, 171, fig. 69
Fly-shuttle at work, 103, 171, 175,
fig- 75
Greek loom of Middle Ages, 168-
179, fig. 66
Hand shuttle (bobbin shuttle), 102,
168, 171, fig. 68
Hand shuttle at work, 102, 175, fig.
74
Hungarian peasant warping, in,
172, fig. 71
illustration list, 181
implement, 169
batten, 105, 106, 168, 172, figs.
66, 67, 73-76
beams, 168
cloth, 90, 91, 168, 170, figs. 66,
67, 73
warp, 89, 168, 170, figs. 66, 67,
72, 73
frame, 107, 108, 168, 169, figs. 66,
67, 72
INDEX
241
Perfected hand loom, implement,
shaft-heddles, 98-100, 168, 170,
figs. 66, 67, 72, 73
shuttle, 102-104, 168, 171, 172,
figs. 66, 68, 69, 74-76
treadles, 99, 113, 168, 171, fi.gs.
66, 67, 73
warping device, no, in, 172, figs.
70, 71
Loom prepared for entering, fig. 72
magazine illustration, 223
outhne, 168
Peg warping in India, no, fig. 70
Perfected hand loom with fly-shuttle,
fig. 67
power, 100, 113, 172
process, 172
battening, 84, 172-178
beaming, 84, 172
heddling, 84, 172
picking, 84, 172-178
shedding, 84, 172-178
warp adjusting, 84, 178
warping, 84, 172
Shed opening mechanism, fig. 73
warp devices, 168
warp lengthening, 89, 91
weft devices, 168
wefting, 172-178
Philippine spinning, 18-21, 24-26, fig. i
Picardy wheel, 46
Picking, 84, 93, 100-104, 114. lis. 121.
128, 133, 139, 151, 157, 164,
172, 188, 203
Piece goods, 82
Pima Indian spinning, 24-26
Plain power loom, 199-206, figs. 86-
89 _
automatic revolving beams, 91, 200
bibliography, 203
Cartwright's first power loom, fig. 86
Cartwright's second power loom,
fig. 87
characteristics, 199
continuous weaving, 91, 199-203
development,
beams, heddles, shuttle, batten,
91, 112, 113
power, 113, 199, 202
Plain power loom,
economics, 91, 108, 109, 112
in cloth, 203
in production, 203
example, 200
first weaving machine, 199
illustration list, 204
implement, 200
batten, 106, 119-201, figs. 87-89
beams, 91, 1 19-201, figs. 87-89
driving gear, 201
frame, 109, 200, figs. 87, 89
shaft-heddles, 200, 201, figs. 87-89
shuttle, 200, 201
stop motion devices, 201
warping device, in, 202
loom mounting, 202
outline, 200
power, 113, 202
process, 202
battening, 84, 203
beaming, 84, 202
heddling, 84, 202
picking, 84, 203
shedding, 84, 203
warping, in, 202
Roberts' power loom, 119-203, fig. 89
Working parts of power loom, fig. 88
Plaiting, 82
Power loom (see Plain p. 1.)
Power for spinning,
hand, 6, 9, 12, 15, 16, 19, 22, 25, 30,
38, 52, 60, figs, i-ii, 17-20, 23, 24
hand and foot, 11, 16, 17, 38, 47, figs.
12-16
mechanical, 6-8, 17, 56, 60, 65, 74,
figs. 21-29
Power for weaving,
foot, 100, 113, IS3, 156, 163, 172,
188, 192, figs. 58, 59, 61, 62, 64-67,
73, 77, 78
hand, 97, 98, 112, 114, 120, 128, 132,
139, ISO, 153, 154, 156, 163, 172,
188, 192, figs. 57-62, 64-67, 74-
78
mechanical, in, 112, 113, 199, 202
Primitive,
spinning, 1-3, 7, 9, 12, 14, iS-32,
figs. i-S
242
INDEX
Primitive,
weaving, 1-3, 80-82, 86, 93, 94, loi,
104, 109, 114-116, 126-151, figs.
30-34, 4i-49> 52-57, 62
Processes {see S. and W. types),
spinning, 4-17
weaving, 83-113
Pulley box, 187, fig. 81
Reed batten,
free, 106, 156, figs. 52, 57, 58, 62
supported, 106, 200, 201, figs. 87-89
suspended, 106, 153, 154, 156, 161,
163, i58, 172, 186, 193, figs. 59, 6[,
64,65, 67, 74-78
Ring spinning frame, 71-74, fig. 28
Roberts' loom, 199-203, fig. 89
Rod-heddle, 95-96, 105, 119, 120, 127,
131, 133, 136, 138, figs. 35-40, 44-
46, 48, 49, SI, 54
Rove bobbins, 51-53, 56, 57, 60, 61,
64, 66, 72, 74, figs. 17-19, 26
Salish Indian,
spinning, 21-23, fig- 2
weaving, 86, 126-129, fig. 43
Saxony wheel, 43-51, figs. 12-16
accelerating spindle, 13, 43, 48
accelerating treadle, 16, 17, 43, 48
automatic winding, 13, 43, 48
bibliography, 48
characteristics, 43
developing agencies, 15-17
earliest continuous spinning, 13, 15, 43
economics, 13, 15-17
in production, 48
in yarn, 48
example, 43
illustration list, 49
implement, 43
distaff, 8, 43, 46, 47, fig. 13
drive bands, 11, 46, 47, figs. 12, 16
drive wheel, 11, 46, figs. 12, 13, 16
flyer and bobbin spindle, 12, 13,
43, 46, figs. 12, 14-16
one spindle, 46
two spindles, 46
standard, 46
treadle, 11, 16, 46
Saxony wheel,
Leonardo da Vinci's spindle, fig. 14
magazine illustration, 219
motion, 15, 43, 47
outline, 43
Picardy wheel, 46
power, 17, 43, 47
process, 48
attenuating, 8, 48
twisting, II, 12, 48
winding, 13, 48
Saxony spindle at work, fig. 16
Saxony spindle, fig. 15
Spinning cotton on Saxony wheel,
fig. 12
Spinning flag on Saxony wheel, fig. 13
Scandinavian loom, fig. 39
Self-acting mule, 64-70, fig. 25
bibliography, 67
characteristics, 64
economics, 8, 9, 15
in output, 67
in yarn, 67
example, 64
first fine yarn spun without manual
help, 64
Four stages of mule spinning, fig. 25
Hand mule enlarged and perfected,
64 _
illustration list, 69
implement, 64, 65
carriage with spindles, 8, 64, fig. 25
counter-faller wire, 64, fig. 25
creel with rove bobbins, 66
draft rollers, 8, 64, fig. 25
faller-wire, 64, fig. 25
frame, 64, fig. 25
headstock, 64, 65
spindles, 12, 13, 64, fig. 25
intermittent spinning, 12, 13, 15, 66
outline, 64
power, 17, 65
process, 66
attenuating, 8, 9, 66
twisting, 12, 13, 66
winding, 13, 66
Roberts' mule, 64-67
Sequence in chronology, 2
Sequence of motions, 112
INDEX
243
Serape, 82
Shaft-heddle, 93, 96-100, 105, 106, 149,
150, 153. 154, 156, IS7. 161, 163,
164, 168, 170, 172, 185-188, 200,
201, figs. 55-62, 64-67, 72, 73, 77,
78, 80, 81, 87-89
Shedding, 84, 93-100, 114, 115, 121,
128, 133, 139, 151, 157, 164, 172,
188, 196, 203
Shedding device, 84, 93-100
double harness, 100, 185-189, figs.
77-81
Jacquard harness, 93, 100, 192-196,
figs. 83-85
none, 93, 94, 114, 126, 127, 131, 136,
138, figs. 30, 31. S3, 34. 41-43. SO.
52
one-shaft heddle, 96, 149, 150, figs.
55. 56
shed-rod, 94, 119, 120, 131, 133
shed-rod and rod-heddle, 94-97, 105,
119, 120, 126, 127, 131, 133, 136,
138, 139, figs. 35-40. 44-46. 48, 49,
51, 54
shed-rod and one shaft-heddle, 97,
153, 154. 156, figs. 57-5Q
two shaft-heddles, 93, 98-100, 161,
163, 168, 170, 200, 201, figs. 60-62,
64-67, 72, 73, 87-89
Shedding harness,
double, 100, 185-187, figs. 77-81
Jacquard, 93, 100, 192-196, figs. 83-
85
single, 99, 156, 161, 163, 170, figs.
57-62, 64-67, 72, 73
Shed-rod (stick), 94-98, 119-121, 127,
128, 131-133. 136, 138. 139. 153.
154, 156, 157, figs. 35-40, 44-46.
48, 49, SI, 54. S7-SQ
Shuttle, 100-104
bobbin, 102, 131, 154-157, 161, 163,
168, 171, 175-179, 186, 193, figs.
58, 59, 61, 66, 68, 74, 77
drop-box, 104, 168, 172, 178, 193,
201, fig. 76
fly, 103, 108, 168, 171, 175-179, 186,
193, 201, figs. 67, 69, 75
needle, loi, 102, 105, 128, 138, 156,
figs. 39. 57
Shuttle,
none, loi, 114, 126, 127, 131, 136,
138, figs. 30-34, 41-43. 50, SI. 54
stick, 102, 103, 119, 120, 128, 131,
136, 138, 149, ISO, 156, 161, 163,
figs. 35. 37. 38, 40, 46, 52, 55. S6,
60, 62
Shuttle-race, 103, 104, 171, 172, 175,
178, 201, figs. 74-76
Siberia, Koryak spinning, 18-20
Sicilian peasant spinning, 18-20
Silk warping in ancient China, fig.
82
Simple cords, 185, 187, fig. 81
Slave Indian belt loom, fig. 52
Sleepers, 186, figs. 80, 81
Spindle, 4-6
automatic winding (bobbin spindle),
13-14. 43-48, 56-57, 72-74, figs-
12-16, 21, 22, 26-29
early, 4, 9, 10
free, 7-12, 14-16, 21-22, 24-25, 29-
30, figs. 2-9
mounted, 11
on frame, 5-9, 12, 13, 15, Si-S4.
56-57. 59-62, figs. 17-24
on machine, 7-9, 12-15, 64-67,
72-74, figs. 25-29
on wheel, 8, 11-17, 36-39, 43-48,
figs. 10-16
non-winding, 12, 21-22, 24-26, 29-
31, figs. 2-9
winding, 12-14
bobbin sp., 43-48, 56-57. 7i-7S.
figs. 12-16, 21, 22, 26-29
shaft sp., 36-39. Si-54. 59-67. figs.
10, II, 17-20, 23-25
Spindle bobbins, 12, 13, 43, 48, 56, 57,
72, figs. 14-16, 27-29
Spinning, 1-79
ancient, 3, 4, 10
beginnings, 5
bibliographies of (see ibid.)
continuous, 13, 15, 43, 5 6, 72, figs.
12-16, 21, 22, 26-29
definition, 4, 5
development, 5, 6, 14-17
early, 3, 4,
ideals, 5
244
INDEX
Spinning,
illustration lists {see ibid.)
intermittent, 12, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24,
30, 37, 51. 59, 64
origin, 3, 10
prehistoric, 1-4
tribes and peoples,
African, figs. 3, 6, g
Alaskan Indian, 18-21
Algerian, fig. g
Alpine, 2g-3i, fig. 8
Am. Indian of N. W., g, 18-20
Asiatic, 8, 10—12, 14, 16, 24-26,
29-31, 36-39, fig. 10
Brunswick, 36-3g
Chinese, 11, 36-3g
Dacca, 7, 10, 11, 24-26
Egyptian, 10, 2g-3i, figs. 3, 6
European, 8, 11, 2g-3i, 36-74,
figs. 7, 8, ii-2g
Greek, 10
Hungarian, 29-31, fig. 7
India, 7, lo-ii, 36-39, fig. 10
Koryak, 18-20
Kwakiutl Indian, 24-26, fig. 5
Lake-dwellers, 29-31, fig. 8
Mediterranean countries, 8
Mexican, 24-26
Navajo, 24-26, fig. 4
New World, 10
Old World, 10
Philippine, 18-20, 24-26, fig. i
Picardy, 46
Pima Indian, 24-26
Salish Indian, 21-23, %• 2
Siberian, 18-20
Sicilian, 18-20
Tlinget Indian, 18-20
Spinning, 1000 B.C., fig. 8
Spinning development {sec S. types),
in attenuation, 6-9
in twisting, 9-12
in weaving, 12-14
Spinning frame, 5, 7, 51-62, figs. 17-24
Hand mule, 9, 12, 13, 15, 59-62,
figs. 23, 24
Jenny, 8, 12, 13, 15, 51-54, figs. 17-20
Water frame, 8, 12, 13, 15, 56-57,
figs. 21, 22
Spinning implement {see spindle)
Spinning machine, 5, 7, 64-75, figs.
25-29
Cap spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 15,
71-74, figs. 26, 29
Flyer spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 15,
71-74, figs. 26, 27
Ring spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 15,
71-74, fig. 28
Self-acting mule, 9, 12, 13, 15, 64-
67, fig- 25
Spinning motion,
continuous, 13, 15, 43, 56, 72
intermittent, 12, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24,
30, 37, SI, 59i 64
Spinning processes, 4-17
attenuating, 4-6
by carriage and rollers, 7-g, sg-
62, 64-67
by drawing, 6-g, 18-20, 56-57, 71-
74
by drawing and stretching, 6-g,
29-31, 59-62, 64-67
by hand, 6-8, 18-19, 24-26, 36-
39, 43-47
by hand and spindle, 6-8, 29-31
by moving carriage, 7-g, 51-53
by rollers, 7-9, 56-57, 7i-74
by spindle and ring, 6-7, 21-23
by stretching, 6-8, 18-19, 21-23,
24-26, 36-39, 43-47, 51-53
twisting, 4-6
by free spindle, 10, 21-23, 24-26,
29-31
by hand, 9, 18-19
by mounted spindle, 11-12, 36-
39, 43-47, 51-53, 56-57, 59-
62, 64-67, 71-74
winding, 4
by hand, 12, 18-19, 21-23, 24-26,
29-31
by hand and spindle, 12-13, 29-31
by spindle, 13-14, 43-47, 56-57,
71-74
by spindle and moving carriage,
13, 51-53, 59-62, 64-67
Spinning types,
XI Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning
frames, 71
INDEX
245
Spinning types,
II Grasped hand spindle, 21
IX Hand mule, 59
I Hand spinning, 18
VII Jenny frame, 51
V Jersey and Asiatic wheels, 36
VI Saxony wheel, 43
X Self-acting mule, 64
III Supported hand spindle, 24
IV Suspended hand spindle, 29
VIII Water frame, 56
Spinning wheel, 5, 6, 36-48, figs. 10-16
Asiatic, 8, 11-14, 16, 36-39, fig. 10
Brunswick, 36-39
Chinese, 11, 36-39
driven by hand, 11, 36-39, figs. 10,
II
driven by hand crank, 38, fig. 10
driven by treadle, ii, 16, 37, 38, 46,
48, figs. 12, 13
for cotton, fig. 10
for flax, fig. 13
for wool, fig. II
Jersey, 8, 11-14, 16, 36-39, fig. 11
of India, 11, 36-39, fig. 10
one-band, 36-39, 43-48, figs. 10, 11
Picardy, 46
Saxony, 8, 11-13, 15-17, 43-48, figs.
12-16
two-band, 43-48, figs. 12-16
Stake warping, no, 121, 128, 131, 138,
ISO, 156, 163, figs. 47, 53, 63
Stick-batten, 105, 119-120, 128, 131,
136, 138, 149, 150, 161, 163, 168,
172, figs. 39, 40, 44-46, 48, 50, 51,
54-56, 60, 66
Stick-shuttle, 102, 103, 119, 120, 128,
131, 136, 138, 149, 150, 156, 161,
163, figs. 35, 37, 38, 40, 46, 52, 55,
56, 60, 62
Stone Age, 81, 96
Supported hand spindle, 24-28, figs.
4, 5
A Kwakiutl Indian spinner, fig. 5
bibliography, 26
characteristics, 24
economics, 5, 14, 16
in production, 26
in yarn, 26
Supported hand spindle,
examples, 25
illustration Ust, 28
implement, 7, 8, 10, 24, 25
intermittent spinning, 12, 24
magazine illustration, 216
outhne, 25
power, 16, 25
process, 25
attenuating, 7, 8, 25
twisting, 10, 16, 25
winding, 12, 25
The Navajo method of twisting,
fig- 4
Suspended hand spindle, 29-36, figs. 6-9
Ancient Egyptian spinners. Middle
Kingdom, fig. 6
bibliography, 32
characteristics, 29
distaff, 8, 29, 30, fig. 7
double drafting, 7, 29-31
economics, 5, 7, 14, 16
in production, 31
in yarn, 31
examples, 30
illustration list, 34
implement, 7, 10, 12, 29, 30, figs. 6-9
intermittent spinning, 12, 30
magazine illustration, 217
most perfect hand drafting, 7
most perfect hand spinning, 10
outhne, 30
power, 16, 30
process, 30
attenuating, 7, 29, 30
twisting, 10, 29, 31
winding, 12, 31
Spinning in the Alps, about 1000 B.C.,
fig. 8
Suspended-spindle spinning, Hun-
gary, fig. 7
Winding yarn on spindle, Algeria,
fig. 9
Tail cords, 185, 187, fig. 81
"Take-on," 84, 91, 112, 157, 164, 178,
200
Teakwood spinning wheel, 37
Tereno-Indian loom, 126-129, fig. 42
246
INDEX
Textile beginnings, 1-4, 80-82
Textile industry,
ancient, i, 80
beginnings, 1-4, 80, 81
doth making, 80-113
early, 1-4, 80-82
Industrial Revolution, 6, 100
progress in, 5-17, 81, 85-113
spinning types, 18-79
stimulating force in, i
story of, 1-17, 80-113
weaving types, 114-206
yarn making, 3-17
Tlinget Indian,
spinning, 18-21
weaving, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Treadle (of loom), 98, 100, 113, 153, 156,
161, 163, 164, 168, 171, 185, 188,
figs. s8, 59, 62, 64, 65-67, 73, 77, 78
Treadle (of spinning wheel), 11, 16, 17,
37, 38, 46, 48, fig- 12
Treadle board, 98, 156, 171, figs. 59, 66
Treadle ring, 98, 156, 163, figs. 58, 65
Treadle wheels, 11, 16, 17, 36-39, 43-
48, figs. 12-16
Tribes and Peoples, Spinning,
African, 10, 29-31, figs. 3, 6, 9
Alaskan, 18-20
Algerian, fig. 9
Alpine, 29-31, fig. 8
Am. Indian, 9, 18-20, 21-23, 24-26,
figs. 2, 4, 5
Asiatic, 8, 10-12, 14, 16, 24-26, 29-
31. 36-39, fig. 10
Chinese, 11, 36-39
Egyptian, 10, 29-31, figs. 3, 6
English, 36-79, figs. 10-29
European, 8, 29-79, figs. 7, 8, 11-29
Greek, 10
Hungarian, fig. 7
India, 7, lo-n, 36-39, fig. 10
Koryah, 18-20
Kwakiutl, 24-26, fig. 5
Lake-dwellers, fig. 8
Mediterranean peasants, 8
Mexican, 24-26
Natives of New World, 10
Natives of Old World, 10
Navajo Indian, 24-26, fig. 4
Tribes and Peoples, Spinning,
Northwest coast Indian, 9, 18-20
PhiHppine, 18-21, 24-26, fig. i
Pima Indian, 24-26
Salish Indian, 21-23, fig- 2
Siberian, iS-20
Sicilian peasant, 18-20
Tlinget, 18-20
Tribes and Peoples, Weaving,
African, 89, 90, 107, 126-129, 136-
141, 158-165, figs. 44, 50, 51, 62, 64
Ainu, 83, 106, 136-141, 154
Alaskan Indian, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Alpine, 119-121, fig. 35
American Indian, 83, 91, loi, 107,
116, 114-116, 126-151, figs. 30-34,
41-49, 52-56
Asiatic, 98, 99, 106, 112, 136-140,
153-165, 185-189, figs. 57-61, 63,
65, 70, 77, 78, 82
Bedouin desert, 98
British Guiana Indian, 126-129
Calabar, W. Africa, 126-129, fig. 44
Ceylon, 98, 154-1S7, fig- 57
Chilkat, 114-116, figs. 31-34
Chinese, 98, 106, 153-158, 1S5-188,
figs. 59, 77, 82
Colonial, 168-179
Dunbar, India, 98, 153-157, fig. 57
Eastern, 98, 99, 112
Egyptian, 90, 91, 92, 96, loi, 104,
107, III, 136-141, 158-165, figs. 50,
51, 64
English, 168-179, 199-203, figs. 67,
75, 86-89
European, 100, 112, 119-121, 168-
202, figs. 35-40, 66-76, 79-81, 83-
89
French, 100, 168-179, 185-188, fig.
81
Greek, 103, 119-121, 168-179, figs.
36-38, 66
Holamux Indian, 126-129, fig. 41
Hopi Indian, 149-15 1, fig. 56
Hungarian, fig. 71
Iceland, fig. 40
India, 89, 92, 98, 99, no, 153-157,
158-165, figs. 57, 60, 61, 63, 70
Ishogo, 136-141
INDEX
247
Tribes and Peoples, Weaving,
Japanese, qS, 153-158, 185-188, fig.
78
Korean, 98, 153-158, fig. 58
Lake-dwellers, 81, 96, 119-121, fig. 35
Malay Islands, 103
Mexican, 130-134, figs. 46-49
Navajo Indian, 91, loi, 107, no,
130-134, 136-141, figs. 45, 47-49,
53, 54
Neolithic, 81
Northwest coast Indian, 83, 11 4-1 16,
figs. 30-34
Salish Indian, 86, 126-129, fig. 43
Scandinavian, fig. 39
Slave Indian, fig. 52
Tereno Indian 126-128, fig. 42
Tlinget Indian, 114-116, figs. 30-34
Zuni, 14Q-151, fig- 55
T'ipod support, 98, figs. 57, 62
Twilled twine weaving, fig. 34
Twined weaving, loi, 115, figs. 31,
33, 34
Twist,
early use, 3, 4 ■
effect of, 4, 5
function, 4, 5
importance to spinning, 4
origin, 3
Twisted cords, 3, fig. 3
Twisting, 4, 5, 9-12, 19, 22, 25, 26, 31,
39,48, 53, 57, 61, 62, 66, 74
Twisting implement,
earliest, 3, 9
free spindle, 9, 10, 21, 24, 25, 29, 30,
figs. 2-9
hand, 4, 5, 9, 18, 19, fig. i
mounted spindle, 11, 12, 36-38, 43-
45, SI, 52, 56, 59, 60, 64, 71, 72,
figs. 10-29
Two-band wheel, 43-48, figs. 12-16 (see
Saxony wheel)
Two-bar loom, 126-130, figs. 41-44
Another crude two-bar loom, 126-
129, fig- 42
a transitional type, 126, figs. 41-44
bibliography, 129
British Guiana apron weaving, 126-
129
Two-bar loom.
Calabar loom, 126-129, fig- 44
characteristics, 126
developing agency, 85
warp stretching, 85, 86
evolving cloth and warp beams,
85-87
direction of technic, 126
economics, 85-87
in cloth, 129
in production, 129
examples, 126
Holamux Indian loom, 126-129, fig.
41
illustration list, 130
implement, 126
batten, 104, 105, 126, 128, fig. 44
bars, 86, 126, 127, figs. 41-44
frame, 107, 108, 126, 127, figs. 41-
44
shedding devices, 93-95, 126, 127,
fig- 44
shuttle, loi, 102, 126-128, figs. 57,
60
warping device, no, 128
loom mounting, 84, 128
outline, 126
power, 112, 128
process, 128
battening, 84, 104, 105, 129
beaming, 84, 86, 128
heddhng, 84, 127, 132
picking, 84, loi, 102, 128
shedding, 84, 93-95, 128
warp adjusting, 129
warping, 84, 86, 128
SaUsh Indian loom, 86, 126-128, fig.
43
Simple two-bar loom, 126-129, fig. 41
Tereno Indian loom, 126-128, fig. 42
warp devices, 86, 126
warp length, 88
warp stretching, 85, 86, 126
weft devices, 93-95, 100-102, 104,
126-128
wefting, 84, 128
West African loom, 126-129, fig- 44
Two-beam loom, 136-149, figs. 50-54
Ainu loom, 106, 136-141
248
INDEX
Two-beam loom,
bibliography, 141
characteristics, 136
development, 85
beams for stretching, 87,
beams for lengthening, go, 91,
frame, 107, 108
heddle, and shuttle, 93-95, loi,
102
direction of technic, 136
economics, 86, 94, 95, 107
in cloth, 141
in production, 141
Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom,
96, 92, 96, loi, 136-141, fig. 51
Egyptian loom of New Kingdom, 90,
92, 96, loi, 107, III, 136-141
Egyptian mat loom, 90, 91, 104, 136-
141, fig. so
examples, 137
first perfectly stretched warp, 87, 136
illustration list, 144
implement, 137
batten, 104-106, 136, 138, figs. 50-
52, 54
beams, 87-gi
cloth, 90, 91, 136, 138, figs, so,
51,54
warp, 90, 136, 138, figs. 50, 51,
54
frame, 86, 106-108, 137, 138, fig.
50-52, 54
rod-heddle, 95, 136, 138, figs. 51, 54
shed-rod, 93-95, 136, 138, figs. 51.
54
shuttle, loi, 102, 136, 138, fig. 52
warping-device, 109— in, 138, 139,
fig- 53
warp post, 86, 88, 107, 137
weaver's belt, 86, 88, 107, 137,
fig- 4S> S8, 59
weaver's comb, 105, 136, 138, fig.
60
Ishogo loom, 136-141
loom mounting, 139
magazine illustration, 221
Navajo loom, 91, loi, 107, no, 136-
141, figs. 53, 54
outline, 137
Two-beam loom,
power, 112, 139
process, 139
battening, 84, 139
beaming, 84, 139
heddhng, 84, 139
picking, 84, 139
shedding, 84, 133, 139
warp adjusting, 140
warping, 84, 139
simplest loom for stretched warp, 87,
136
Slave Indian belt loom, fig. 52
warp devices, 87, 136
warp lengthening, 87-90
warp stretching, 85, 87, 136
weft devices, 94, 95, loi, 102, 104,
105, 136, 13S
wefting, 84, 139
Two-shaft treadle loom, 158-168, figs.
60-65
Another crude loom from India, 158-
168, fig. 60
bibliography, 165
characteristics, 158 ■
developing, 85
battening, 105, 106
beams, 89-92
frame, 108
shedding, 98, 99
Egyptian loom. Middle Ages, 92,
158-165, fig. 64
economics, 98, 99, 108, 113
in cloth, 165
in production, 164
examples, 161
first perfect shedding, 98, 99, 161
illustration list, 166
implement,
batten, 106, 161, 163, figs. 6i-6j2,
64, 65
beams, 158
cloth, 90, 158, 161, figs. 60, 61,
64, 65
warp, 89, 158, 161, figs. 61, 64
frame, 108, 158, 161, figs. 60-62, 64,
65
shaft-heddles, 98, 99, 161, 163, figs.
60-62, 64, 65
INDEX
249
Two-shaft treadle loom,
implement,
shuttle, 102, 161, 163, figs. 60-62
treadles, 100, 113, 161, 163, figs. 62,
65
warping device, no, 163, fig. 63
warp post, 8g, 15S, fig. 61
weaver's belt, 108, 158, 161
weaver's comb, 105, 163, fig. 60
loom mounting, 84, 164
magazine illustration, 223
Outdoor loom of the hills, 158-165,
fig. 61
outline, 161
power, 113, 163
process,
battening, 84, 105, 106, 164
beaming, 84, 164
heddling, 84, g8, 164
picking, 84, 102, 164
shedding, 84, 93, 98, 99, 164
warp adjustment, 164
warping, 84, no, 164
Shawl loom, Asia, 158-165, fig. 65
Stake warping, India, no, fig. 63
warp devices, 161
warp lengthening, 89
weft devices, 161
wefting, 164
West African loom, 89, 158-165, fig.
62
Warp, 82—92, 109-111 {see W. types)
Warp adjusting, 86, 89, 91, 112, 129,
^ii, 134. 140, 151, 157, 164,
178, 200, 201
Warp arrangement, 85-92 {see W.
types)
devices for, 86, 88
earliest, 85, 114, 115
for lengthening, 87-92
by automatic revolving beams, 91
"let-off" and "take-on," 91
by extension, 88, 89
by revolving beams, 89-92
cloth, 90-92
warp, 89, 91, 92
restrictions, 87, 88
for stretching, 85-87
Warp arrangement, for stretching.
loose hanging, 86, 114, 115, figs.
30-32
stretched between beams, 87-
92, 136-203, figs. 50-89
weighted, 86, 87, 1 19-120, figs.
35-40
wrapped over bars, 86, 126-134,
figs. 41-49
in Africa, 89, 158-164, fig. 62
in Egypt, 90-92, 136-141, figs. 50, 51
in India, 89, 92, 158-164, figs. 57,
60, 61, 65
on Navajo looms, 91, figs. 54, 45, 46,49
on Northwest coast looms, 11 4-1 16,
figs. 30, 31
on Salish looms, 86, 126-129, fig. 43
Warp beam, 86-92 {see W. types)
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89
identical with cloth beam, 86, 90,
114, figs. 31-33
Navajo, 91
non-revolving, 90-92
revolving, 89-92
Warp devices, 85
Warp post, 86, 88, 89, 107, 130, 132,
137, 149, 150, 151, 158, 161, 164,
figs. 45, 56, 61, 62
Warp stretching, 85-89, 114, 115, 119,
120, 126-203, figs. 30-32, 35-47.
49-67, 70-73, 77, 78, 82, 83, 86-89
Warp weights, 86, iig, 120, figs. 35-40
Warping, 84, 86, 109-111 115, 121, 128,
132, 139, 150, 157, 164, 172, 188,
202
Warping creel, in, 172, 202, fig. 82
Warping device, 109-111
machine, in, 202
measuring staff, 109, 114, fig. 32
mill, III, 139, 172, 202, figs. 71, 82
none, 86, 128
pegs, no, 139, 163, 172, 202, fig. 70
stakes, no, 121, 128, 131, 138, 150,
156, 163, figs. 47, 53, 63
Warping machine, in, 202
Warping mill, in, 139, 172, 202, figs.
71, 82
Warping pegs, no, in, 139, 163, 172,
202, fig. 70
250
INDEX
Warping reel, iii, 139, 172, 202, figs. 71.
82
Warping staff, 109, 114, fig. 32
Warping stakes, no, 121, 128, 131,
138, ISO, 156, 163, figs. 47, 53, 63
Water frame, 56-59, figs. 21, 22
Arkwright's first Water frame, 56,
57, fig. 21
Arkwright's improved Water frame,
56, 57, fig. 22
bibliography, 57
characteristics, 56
copied by, 59, 71
earliest draft by drawing, 56
earliest mechanical continuous spin-
ning, 56
earliest sp. mechanism driven from
one point, 56
economics, 8, 13, 15
in output, 57
in product, 57
example, 56
illustration list, 58
implement, 56
cog wheel, shaft and drum, 56,
fig. 22
creel of rove bobbins, 56
draft rollers, 8, 56, fig. 22
flyer-spindles, 12, 13, 56, fig. 22
frame, 56, fig. 22
outline, 56
power, 56
principle of, 56
process,
attenuating, 8, 9, 56
presses all mechanical, 56, 57
twisting, 12, 57
winding, 13, 14, 57
Weaver's belt, 86, 88, 91, 107, 108, 130-
132, 137, 149, ISO, 154, 156, 157,
158, 161, figs. 45, 55, 56, 58, 59
Weaver's comb, 105, 106, 131, 136, 138,
163, fig. 60
Weaving (see W. types),
age of, 80
ancient, 81, 87, 99 (see Egyptian,
Greek, Lake-dweller)
basket, 82
beginnings, i, 2, 80
Weaving,
bibliography (see ibid.)
continuous, 91, 199-203, figs. 86-89
defined, 82, 83
development, 81, 85, 112
early, 4, 80, 81
entire weaving, 82
filling (weft), 82-85, 93-106 {see W.
types)
first essential in, 85, 86
first implements, 85
foundation (warp), 82-92, 109-111
{see W. types)
illustration list {see ibid.)
implement {see Looms)
invention, 80, 81, 85-113 {see W.
types)
loom {see ibid.), 82, 83
loom weaves, 82, 83
mastery in, 81
modern, 81, 82
native materials, 81, 83
native weavers, 2
origin, 80, 81
piece goods, 82
primitive, 1-3, 80-82, 86, 93, 94,
loi, 104, 109, 114-116, 126-151,
figs. 30-34, 41-49, 52-57, 62
principles of, 83, 112
source, 80
structure, 83
tribes and peoples {ibid.)
warp manipulation, 85, 92, 109-111
warp stretching, 85-87
warp weights, 86, 119,120, figs. 35-40
weaver's belt {see ibid.)
web lengthening, 87-92
weft manipulation, 85, 93-109
Weaving, 1000 B.C., 119, fig. 35
Weaving, 500 B.C., 120, 121, figs. 36-38
Weaving development {see W. types),
in battening, 104-106
in loom frame, 106-109
in picking, 100-104
in power, 112, 113
in shedding, 93-100
in unifying mechanism, 85, 112
in warp arrangement, 85-92
in warping, 109-in
INDEX
251
Weaving implement {see Looms)
Weaving processes, 83-113
battening {see ibid.)
beaming {see ibid.)
direction of technic {see ibid.)
heddling {see ibid.)
" letting-off " and "taking-on" {see
ibid.)
loom mounting {see ibid.)
picking {see ibid.)
shedding {see ibid.)
warp adjusting {see ibid.)
warping {see ibid.)
wefting {see ibid.)
Weaving types, 81
X Draw loom, i8s-ig2
IV Frameless two-bar loom, 130-
135
XI Jacquard loom, 192-108
I One-beam loom, 114-iig
VI One-shaft loom, 149-^153
VII One-shaft treadle loom, 153-
158
IX Perfected hand loom, 168-185
XII Plain power loom, 199-206
III Two-bar loom, 126-130
V Two-beam loom, 136-149
VIII Two-shaft treadle, 158-168
II Weighted warp loom, 1 19-125
Web lengthening, 87-92
Weft, 82-85, 93-106 {see W. types)
Weft devices, 85, 93-106, 114, 119, 126,
131
Wefting, 84, 93-106, 115, 121, 128, 133,
139, 151, 157, 164, 172, 188, 203
Weighted warp loom, 1 19-125, figs.
35-40
Alpine weaver, fig. 35
bibliography, 122
characteristics, 119
Circe loom, Ashmolean Mus., fig. 37
development, 85
warp stretching, 86, 119
wefting, 93-96, 100-102, 104, 105,
119
direction of technic, 119
economics, 85, 86, 94
in cloth, 121
in production, 121
Weighted warp loom,
examples, 119
Greek loorri, 119-121, figs. 36-38
Greek weaver, British Mus., fig. 36
Icelandic loom, 11 9-1 21, fig. 40
illustration list, 124
implement, 119, 120
batten, 104, 105, 119, 120, figs. 39,
40
beam, 86-88, 119, 120, figs. 36-40
frame, 107, 108, 120, figs. 36-40
rod-heddle, 95, 119, 120, figs. 35-40
shed-rod, 94, 119, 120, figs. 35-40
shuttle, loi, 102, 119, 120, figs. 37-
39
warping device, no, 121
weights, 86, 119, 120
Lake-dweller loom, 96, 119-121
loom mounting, 84, 121
magazine illustration, 221
outline, 119
Penelope's loom, 103, 119-121, fig.
38
power, 112, 120
process, 121
battening, 84, 105, 121
beaming, 84, 121
heddling, 84, 132
picking, 84, 102, 121
shedding, 84, 94, 95, 121 ,
warping, 84, no, 121
Scandinavian loom, fig. 39
warp devices, 86, 119
warp lengthening, 87, 88
warp stretching, 86, 119
weft devices, 93-96, 100-102, 105,
119
wefting, 84, 121
Winding, 4, 12-14, 19, 22, 25, 26, 31,
39, 48, S3, 57, 61, 62, 66, 74
defined, 4
Winding device
hand, 12, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 30, 31,
fig- 9
hand and spindle, 12, 13, 37, 39
spindle, 13, 14, 43, 48, 56, 72-73,
figs. 12, 22, 26-29
spindle and moving carriage, 13, 51,
53, 59, 61, 62, 64, figs. 18, 25
252
INDEX
Wool wheel {see Jersey wheel)
Wrapped weaving, loi, 115
Yarn,
characteristics, 4, 5
early, 3, 4
economic aims, 5
frame spun, 51-62
gain factors, 8, 14-16, 19, 22, 26, 31,
39, 48, 53, 57, 62, 67, 74
hand spindle spun, 21-32
hand spun, 18-20
improved quality, 5, 6, 20, 23, 26, 31,
4*0, 48, 54, fl, 62, 67, 75
increased production in, 5, 6, 20, 22,
26, 31, 30, 48, S3, 57, 62, 67, 74
machine spun, 64-75
prehistoric, 4
story of, 1-17
uses of, 3, 4
wheel spun, 36-48
Yarn making, 1-79 {see Spinning, S.
processes, S. types and Spindle)
beginnings, i, 2
chronological sequence, 2
Yam making,
defined, 4
development n, i 2, 5-17 {see In-
creased production)
early, 3, 4
economic progress in, 5-17 {see Im-
proved product)
implement {see Spindle)
incentive to, i
means for {see S. implement)
mechanical science involved, 5-17
{see S. types)
native materials for, 3
native spinners, 2
obstacles to, i, 2
origin of, 3, 4
periods of invention, 5, 6
processes of {see S. processes)
requirements, 4
stimulating force in, i
story of, I -1 7
yarn essentials, 4, 5
Zuni Indian belt weaver, 149-151, fig.
55
Printed in the United States of America.
'T'HE following pages contain advertisements of a
few of the Macmillan books on kindred subjects.
Textiles
A Handbook for the Student and the Consumer
BY
MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN, B.S.
President of the Women's Educational and Industrial Union, Boston, acting head
of the Department of Household Economics, Simmons College, recently
Professor of Domestic Art in Teachers College
ELLEN BEERS McGOWAN, B.S.
Instructor in Household Arts in Teachers College, Columbia University
Illustrated, Cloth, i2mo, xi-\-428 pp.. Index, Bibliography, $2.00
This book is the result of twenty years' experience in teaching textiles to
college students. It is intended as a textbook for college classes or for study
clubs and as a guide for the housekeeper or individual consumer of textiles
and clothing, the teacher, the club woman, the saleswoman, and as an intro-
ductory survey of the subject for the student who contemplates professional
work in the textile industries.
The growing emphasis upon textile study in college departments of home
economics or household arts, and the increasing use of the textile industry as
teaching material in other departments and other grades of schools, shows a
recognition of the part that the textiles are playing in the development of
civilization and in our everyday life. Interest in the subject is still further
accentuated by the movements now on foot to regulate the social-economic
conditions in the textile and clothing industries and to secure standardization
and honest labeling of textile products, as is being done for food products by
the " pure food laws."
To meet the existing need the authors have attempted to prepare a text
suitable for use in college classes or by the public, shorter and more readable
than the technical handbooks, yet sufficiently thorough and comprehensive to
give a sound grasp of the subject as a whole with so much of the technology
as is directly helpful to the consumei and as should be included in general
courses in colleges and technical or vocational schools.
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York
Woolen and Worsted
By ROBERTS BEAUMONT
Formerly Professor of Textile Industries at Leeds University.
Octavo, III., XXXV + 640 pp., $10.00
The theory and technology of the manufacture of woolen, worsted, and union
yarns and fabrics, covering the whole range of technicalities, processes and schemes
of mechanism related to their production. The illustrations of yarns, fabrics,
patterns and machines are particularly valuable.
Jute
and Linen Weaving '
By THOMAS WOODHOUSE and THOMAS MILNE
i2mo, III., xxvii-\- SQO pp., $4.23
Although prepared for the jute and linen trades, it will be found useful in other
branches of weaving.
Textile Design
By THOMAS WOODHOUSE and THOMAS MILNE
i2mo. III., 515 pp., $j 50
A very complete and technical treatment covering the whole field of textile
design as applied commercially to various branches of their industry. Every weave
simple and elaborate is fully discussed.
Dress Design
By TALBOT HUGHES
i2nio, III., 362 pp., $4.00
An historical account of costume intended as a book of suggestions to artists and
dressmakers. The treatment is divided into centuries and reigns, as far as possible,
and male and female attire are treated separately, thus simplifying reference.
Photographic illustrations and line sketches by the author add great value and
interest to the book. Footwear, coiffure, and other details are illustrated, also, a
feature which makes the book invaluable to the designer of historical costume in
any period or to the illustrator.
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York
Shelter and Clothing
A Textbook of the Household Arts
BY
HELEN KINNE
Professor of Household Arts Education
AND
ANNA M. COOLEY
Assistant Professor of Household Arts Education, Teachers' College, Columbia
University.
Cloth, i2mo, III., 277 PP-, $i-io
This book and the volume, Foous AND Household Management, that
follows it, make up a full course in domestic matters not confined to details of
cooking and sewing. The books treat fully, but with careful balance, every phase
of home-making. The authors hold that Harmony will be the keynote of the home
in proportion as the makers of the home regard the plan, the sanitation, the decora-
tion of the house itself, and as they exercise economy and wisdom in the provision
of food and clothing.
The plan of the book is flexible. Parts may be omitted or shifted to meet the
necessity or the convenience of different schools. The chapter headings in some
measure disclose the breadth, the variety, and the practicability of the book.
The Home. — Its plan and construction: heating, ventilating, lighting, water
supply, and the disposal of waste ; decoration; furnishing. TEXTILES. — Materials
and how they are made. Garment-making.— Patterns ; cutting and making
garments; embroidery. Dress. — History of costume; hygiene of clothing ; eco-
nomics of dress ; care and repair of clothing; millinery.
Clothing and Health
By HELEN KINNE and ANNA M. COOLEY
Cloth, i2mo. III., J02 pp., $.65
Designed especially for use in elementary schools outside large cities.
Describes simply such items as the source and manufacture of cotton, linen, silk
and wool, the hygiene of clothing, purchasing, making and repairing of clothing,
color combination, and the clothing budget.
Other volumes in this elementary series are Foods and HEALTH and THE
Home and the Family.
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York
459 - 90
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